Taiwan 2020

Back In Australia

We arrived back in Adelaide on 21st March 2020. Personally it was a very sad time for both Prue and myself to be asked to pull up our tour and fly back home. But we realised it was necessary and were fortunate to have a smooth passage home without any hiccoughs. There are many fellow Aussies still stuck out there and we hope that they can get home quickly and where necessary with the assistance from the Australian Government.

Our aim was to fly into Adelaide and lock down for our quarantine period in Prue’s home territory. To make this happen we flew home via Kuala Lumpur – Malaysia as we were only transiting through the airport. All other flights would have put us in either Sydney or Melbourne, where we could have been forced into quarantine there.

On arrival at Adelaide airport we were greeted by Prue’s brother – David and his wife Jane. David loaned us a Toyota Ute so we could self drive to the Adelaide home of Jane and Peter, who are living in New Zealand. So we are fortunate and grateful to the Harris family for providing their assistance.

We are now serving our 14 day quarantine and have been busy unpacking and reflecting – on how the corona virus has shutdown the world, the effect on us, how fortunate we made the move to go as soon as the Level 4 – Smart Traveller advice was given; then how disappointing to come home and see many Australians who were raiding the supermarkets and disregarding the social distancing guidelines given by the Australian Government.

We were lucky to be in Taiwan, who brought control systems into place on the corona virus immediately. This was because of the previous SAR’s epidemic experience where they were hurt before. This allowed the Taiwanese to move around, without restrictions, allowing public places and restaurants to remain open and daily life for most locals seemed normal to us. The Asians are serious and obedient people when tackling virus’s, not like many Australian’s, who will now pay the price and loss of freedom to bring the virus back under control.

We thank all our Taiwanese friends who looked after us, greeted us, provided accommodation, and most off all their kindness; this made the cycling trip around the island far more enjoyable and a very rewarding and enriching experience. We would have preferred to stay in Taiwan but knew the country border lock downs were coming. So here we are home, safe and healthy.

We wish all our Australian family and friends all the best in the coming months, to stay safe and keep healthy.

Arrival in Taiwan

We have arrived in our first country – busy Taiwan! We love the Taiwanese, they are very friendly and extended a warm welcome where ever we go. We have spent two nights in a Motel in the middle of Taoyuan on the outskirts of Taipei. Now fully recharged and ready to go!

Setting off to join the chaotic roads through Taoyuan to hopefully find more orderly and quiet roads on the Taiwan Cycling Route 1.

Day 1: Taoyuan to Daxi District (43 km)

After a few days in our Motel, resting and making final preparations, as we had a few hiccoughs with our social media; so please bear with us while we get the hang of working with this web media!

We had two jobbies to do before hitting the Taiwan Cycle Route 1. To find an ATM and fuel. ATM was easy as they are located in every convenience store, mostly 7-Elevens, which are literally on every corner! Camp fuel was not so easy and ended up in a Gas Station (where else would you find fuel!)

After sorting out the GPS, with Prue’s help, we eventually found the Cycle Route and we jumped for joy. The route was well marked and we were no longer in the unknown with our motor scooter friends!

Next hurdle was to find a camp site for the night and ended on a viewing platform overlooking the Dahan River and Daxi Bridge in Old Taoyuan Town. Not bad for our first night.

Day 2: Daxi – Hsinchu (37 km)

We woke up after a restless night of Chinese firecrackers spasmodically going off (last few nights of Chinese New Year). Thank goodness we were at the tail end. We also had torrential rain overnight so our lovely camp site looked like all hell had broken loose. Thank goodness we were lucky to be camping on the platform.

The weather cleared up in the morning and we knew more rain was coming so we made a dash for Hsinchu. We found the cycle path which lead us onto a narrow quiet winding road through the paddy fields. What a relief to know that these roads exist.

Day 3: Rest day in AJ Hotel Hsinchu!!

Yes we can hear you all laughing but we did get caught in heavy rain yesterday in the afternoon and even our wet weather gear couldn’t cope. So we needed a drying place and due to another wet day forecast, we decided stay put another night. We will be off pedalling again tomorrow and the weather is looking good.

Day 4: Hsinchu to Sinpu (59 Km)

We left Hsinchu in gale force winds, Prue was ready to head back to the comfort of the hotel. After Peter’s gentle coercion and realising that we had another tail wind; off we went. Headed to Sunset Boulevard on the coast and it was great to see Taiwan Strait, even though the tide was out two kilometres! China’s coastline is only 130 km away, but too far way to see form Taiwan. We experienced our first roadside pork sausages while on the bike path and met a group of very friendly Taiwanese students; who were on an extended school break due to the Corona Virus outbreak.

Our plan was to find a campsite on the coastline, and ended up camping in an the Sinpu Elementary School ground. (Camping in schools or near policed stations is quite common). We were greeted by two Teachers who immediately approached us with the temperature gun. We passed the fever check, again not registering as we were so cold. After approval from the principle we were shown where to camp, which was in a foyer with running water and toilets nearby. All the comforts of home!

It was our first night using the MSR Whisper light stove and realised we did not have matches. But how fortunate it was to find a small village backyard convenience store 2 minutes away. Yeah – hot noodles for dinner!!

Day 5: Sinpu to Taichung (58 km)

We did not realize our accommodation was Bed & Breakfast, as both Sinpu Teachers arrived with a Tradition Taiwanese breakfast for us. Before we were allowed to leave, our temperatures were taken and recorded again on a school log.

We left Cycle Route 1 to made up time and pedalled straight to Taichung, a very busy and major manufacturing city. On route we visited the Dajia Jenn Lann Temple. This is a very famous Mazu Temple and is filled with pilgrims all year around. We both took a tour inside the temple, one at a time ( guarding bikes!) and was amazed at the spender and glitter of the statues. Peter was hijacked by a tour guide who showed him how to burn incense and pray to the Sea Goddess – Mazu. What an experience!

Day 6: Taichung to Puli (84 Km)

Spent two hours on the phone trying to rearrange our flights to Korea as our flight had been cancelled to Busan and redirected to Seoul. We ended up cancelling the flight to Korea as we were advised by the airline the flight will change again due to Corona Virus (COVID-19) spreading in Korea.

We finally got on our way. We had to find Cycle Route 1-3 to Puli, (in the Nantou County at the base of the mountains). This took us 3 hours! (Lost amongst the freeways)

We rode 60 km with a steady incline all the way. We expected a steeper climb so thankfully it was not too bad. We were relieved to finally reach our destination but realised we were at the wrong Hotel!! Oops another 10 km on!

Puli is famous for its four ‘W’s’ – Water, Wine, Women and Weather due to its location in a pristine mountain area.

When we arrive at our accommodation we are always given a warm welcome and they never question the bikes, always finding a place for us to store them. This time they were in the back office amongst the workers!

Day 7: Puli to Sun Moon Lake (18 Km)

Sun Moon Lake gets its name for the shapes of it two parts, Sun Lake and Moon Lake. It is Taiwan’s second largest lake and largest natural lake and is a very famous tourist attraction. Hence, the first time we experienced tourists on mass, but still not to same degree as under normal situations.

Today’s ride was a continuous steep ride which included many stops! We went though many tunnels to our relief, which otherwise the road would have numerous switchbacks.

We stayed at Shuishe in a quaint small family Hotel. This time the bikes were in the foyer, which was also the family living room/come garage/come shop. They sold black tea from their roadside stall to passerbys at night.

Day 8: Sun Moon Lake to JiJi (32 Km)

Had breakfast at Starbucks overlooking the lake. Our most expensive coffee but the best one yet!
We joined the tourists on the bike track around the Lake. If you weren’t on your bike you didn’t fit in. We rode to the Xiangshan Visitor Centre – most amazing international award winning building in Taiwan. It was breathtaking.

Off we went again on the bike track. This part of the route included 200 steps which we managed with one person steering and the other pushing behind! We got off the track and headed to our next destination – this was all down hill. It was the longest down hill run we both had ever had. We both laughed as it took us two days of riding to get to the top and one hour to get down! It was a thrill and well worth the effort.

We stayed at a family run Hotel called the Ark Hotel. Again google sent us to the wrong place. (Translations for the correct address of our accommodation is causing us some grief ??)

Arrived and this time the bikes were put in the front yard with a dog guard and lock and key!
This Hotel is called a homestay for families with children. The rooms are decorated in fun colours, wall art and some rooms have a bunk bed with a slippery slide. It had a play room, play ground, bikes to ride and treats for the kids to have free of charge.

Another great night market we experienced. Love the food at these markets!

Day 9: JiJi to Chiayi City (74 Km)

Had our best morning riding through the country on lovely quiet roads and bike paths.

Tonight we have organised our first “Warm Showers” experience. Our contact was Jack who unfortunately could not have us to stay but he had arranged us to stay with a friend of his who is in the same cycling group. Also another member, Geoff offered to meet us along the route, at the Honey Museum, to guide us into Chiayi City. Hooray, this will be the first night we don’t get lost!!

Met Geoff who was with his son Gerry, and they both were on electric bikes to my horror. My thought was how I was going to keep up with them!! Peter would be fine!

With a lot of help from Geoff, pushing me from behind we made it into Chiayi City in record time!
We met Jack who kindly took us out to experience the local cuisine – ‘Turkey rice’ followed by Douha – Tofu Pudding. Then we met Maya and her daughter, Rose who took us to their home. Another interesting exercise getting the bikes up to the 7th floor via the elevator! This time the bikes were left in the stair well.
As we have always said, the hospitality of the Taiwanese is exceptional.

Day 10: Chiayi City to Shanhua (49 Km)

We selected Shanhua, as it was half way to Tainen , our next destination and we wanted some free time for house keeping.

Today’s ride was on Cycle Route 1 – a long, straight and very boring road.

Don’t ask, but yes we did go to three different places before finding our accommodation! We are staying at the Country Community Homestay, a local home with Rex and his wife Yvette and their 3 children. Rex’s home has 3 bedrooms; all with ensuite’s on the second floor of their apartment. We have use of their kitchen and lounge and the bikes are in their garage! We have a little bit of normality tonight. Rex kindly offered to drive us into the local night market in Madou for dinner, it was lovely to be driven around by locals in their car and what an experience we had that night.

Just have to mention Rex’s car. It was the latest Taiwan Lexgen SUV with an operational TV built into the consul. We were watching the BBC news on the way to the market!

Day 11: Shanhua to Tainan (35 Km)

Had a relatively easy day as planned to do a little sight seeing on the way.

We went to Anping, where in 1624 the Dutch built their first fort for their administrative centre and trading hub. It was to provide a base for trading with China and Japan. Here we walked along some of the oldest streets in Taiwan and amongst the merchant houses.

Next we went to see the first Confucius Temple in Taiwan. It was such a pleasure to visit as you escaped the hustle and bustle of the Taiwan busy roads and were transported into a calm, graceful and dignified space.

“It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop.”  ― Confucius

Settled into our accommodation for the night – Multi-Fun B&B. Peter the caretaker settled us in and advised us to go down a particular street to have dinner. We found a restaurant (the pictures of the food looked good) and ordered the beer before we looked at the menu – bad mistake!

Day 12: Tainan to Kaohsuing (56 Km)

Planned to go to the Chimei museum on the outskirts of Tainan but unfortunately it was closed but we did spend an hour in the grounds and on the bridge. The bridge , called “Olympus Bridge” symbolises the passage from the mortal world into Olympus, the abode of the gods.

While we were there we did have fun watching the sites. A group of young girls taking photos of themselves in their graduation gowns and behind them a bride and groom having their wedding photos taken.

Went to my my favorite place – another Confucius Temple. This one was far grander but the serenity and simplicity of it just exuded calm and peace which we just loved. Also, having a mango coffee (now my favorite drink) in the west wing was very refreshing after our hot ride.

Onto Lotus Pond which has 20 or so temples scattered around or the near the pond’s edge. Most of these are “garishly Kitsch”(as described by Lonely Planet).

We then had time to pop in to the Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts,showing the works of Taiwanese artists which we enjoyed immensely. Some of the artists were
Liu Kuo-Sung – To the Moon
Yungsu Heu – A World Made of Light

Our accommodation is on the 16th floor tonight. Again the bikes had a trip up the elevator and stored in the foyer!

Day 13: Kaohsiung (Rest Day)

After 8 days of riding we thought we needed a day off the bikes. Also, accommodation was very comfortable and cheap we couldn’t resist.

Had again some housekeeping to do but did visit Pier 2 which is an arts centre consisting of designer workshops, boutiques , trendy cafes and shops selling local and imported lifestyle products. It reminded me of Salamanca in Hobart. We loved it.

Then we went to the National Museum of Science and Technology. We totally got sensory overload. Unbelievable amount of information. You could spend a week in there.

Day 14: Kaohsiung to Fenggang (70 Km)

Headed to Danggang to go to Little Liuchi Island where we were planning to cycle around the island and camp at the local campsite. When we were booking our ferry trip they asked where we were staying and when we said we were camping, it through them in a spin as we were not allowed to camp as it was “too hot”.
Decided not to go and headed South.

We had a interesting ride along the coastline, where they had a lot of fish farming ponds with aerated paddles in each pond. The plumbing network was a site to behold and we thought you needed a very special degree to put it altogether!

Found our first camp site by the seaside and by the main busy road (Cycling Route 1). The beach had dark sand, was rocky and not suitable for swimming but none the less the camp site was full!!

We were adopted by a Taiwanese family, Mother, Father 2 girls and a boy who were camping opposite us. The daughters could both speak English, the eldest, Lola, spoke very well and she was very interested in us. When we were setting up camp they fed us a pork sausage and then later on we were given a pork and Shitake mushroom sandwich in white bread! That was dinner. We had to escape to the local 7- eleven to wash it down with a Taiwan beer.

That night we didn’t get a lot of sleep due to the location!! Peter loves traffic noise – thank goodness for ear plugs and being tired after a long day’s ride!

Day 15: Feggang to Baisha Bay (42 Km)

Surprise – it rained overnight!! Thank goodness the morning was warm so we could dry everything out before we packed up.

Breakfast arrived from Lola and this time we were very surprised as it was an egg and bacon sandwich which we demolished.

Headed towards Baisha Bay, our first white sandy beach. It was a Saturday of a long weekend so the beach was packed. We were lucky to be able to camp in the campsite. We were given a grassy patch as all campsites were taken. (In Taiwan people camp on platforms, cement pads or undercover in designated areas. After another wet night we realised why camping under cover is popular!!)

This beach is famous for the filming of “The Life of Pi” so very popular with the Taiwanese.

Day 16: Baisha Bay to Eluanbi Park (27Km)

Our day started with a walk along the beach and a swim. It was our hottest day, 31 degrees and humid.

We found another campsite – best one yet as everyone had gone home after the long weekend, so it was quiet and away form the main road. Yippee – a quiet night for Peter tonight!!

We set up camp and then headed off to the Southern most point of Taiwan. We met Rainer, from Germany. He was here in Taiwan to set up manufacturing contracts for wind turbines. It is amazing as we have seen very few Westerners on our travels, so you are immediately attracted to them when you come across them and want to find out what they are doing here.

We had dinner in and fired up the Whisperlight Stove. We are getting better, this time we only lost the water to cook our noodles in due to uneven ground so we had to start again but thank goodness the noodles were saved! Again we went to 7- eleven for a treat after our noodle episode!!

Day 17: Eluanbi Park to Manzhou (27 Km)

Again it rained overnight and we took shelter under cover, the next morning – learning how to camp the Taiwanese way.

It was a funny day as we met quite a few different groups of people travelling. It all started at the bus stop shelter at the top of the hill after leaving Eluanbi Park. We were taking shelter from the rain and wind as we had never experienced such strong winds that blew us across the other side of the road.

First of all a bus load of Malaysians wanted to share the bus shelter with us – not a lot of room for everyone including our bikes!! Fortunately, their bus came to rescue them and they jumped on board except for a few who wanted to take our photos with them.

Once they left another car pulled up and Chen introduced himself. He had previously lived in Bondi whilst studying English 13 years ago. We met his wife from mainland China and their twins 6 months old. He told us that his business, exporting Orchids to China, was shutdown for 12 months due to the corona virus. He gave us his business card and said we could contact him in any situation.

We carried on to Jialeshuei, a famous surfing beach and then ended up at the end of the road where you could go on a bus tour, which took you along the rugged east coast line, overlooking the Pacific Ocean. There were 10 rock formations of interest, which we got the “giggles” at.

By the way, it was even too windy for the surfers! Not a sole insight.

The highlight of the day, Peter had a real hamburger with fries for lunch. He needed a Western fix and after tonight’s meal I think we are off to McDonalds tomorrow??! But 7-Eleven to the rescue again for a night cap and for some Wi Fi for blogging. Unfortunately, our B&B ‘s Wi Fi was not working.

Day 18: Manzhou to Daren (66 Km in the hills)

Started off with breakfast at our B&B. We were given “carrot cake” typical Taiwanese cuisine , we were told but for the life of us, there was not a carrot anywhere near that cake!! Anyway we ate it and surprisingly quite nice. We needed all the carbs for our big cycling day ahead.

We knew we were heading for the mountains so we had a couple of camp sites planned where we could stay if we ‘ran out of legs’. (We hadn’t planned to ride the whole way to the East Coast). Each camp site was after a mountain climb. The first one we got to the gate was closed. Since it was early in the afternoon we thought we could press on to the next one. Another mountain and another camp site closed!! So considering we had no hill climbing experience behind us, I will rephrase that, since Prue had no climbing experience we were not sure how I would cope with another mountain climb before finding accommodation. Any way we survived – just to enjoy a 16 km fast ride down to Daren on the main route 9 with fast sweeping corners and the first shop we came across was a 7-Eleven*. We were so excited as we love 7-Elevens – they have everything you want – WC’s, coffee, beer etc and free WIFI, so we can find our accommodation for the night.

Found this very cute B&B place. No camping** tonight as we thought we deserved a treat and also there was no camp site to be found near by. Enjoyed another local restaurant cuisine tonight – fried rice and stir fried noodles with Taiwan Beer for both of us was only NT $190. (AUD $9.00)

* Our friend Jo advised us that there are 5,222 7-Elevens in Taiwan and I am sure we will have visited nearly all of them by the time we have finished our trip here! (We have only seen two golden arch’s ).

** Most camp sites are around NT$800 – $900 and we can get accommodation for the same price

Prue rode amazing through the switch backs and hills today with fully loaded panniers

Day 19: Daren to Taitung (75 Km)

Thank you for the feedback from our followers; we have changed our Posting Order , with the latest now on top.

We started our morning with breakfast on the balcony at 7.30am. We were pleased for the early start as we had another big day planned to get to Taitung. We thought it would be much easier than yesterday as it was along the Coastline but little did we know what a slog it would be.

We were on a four lane highway No 9, skirting around the coastline on elevated overhanging bridges around the cliffs. with long steady inclines which were unexpected and a head wind!! We also could have been a little tired from yesterday’s ride!

We arrived at our normal rest stop 7-Eleven (42 km) and after a bite to eat; we continued on our trip and thankfully the road was flatter and the wind had dropped. So we had time to go to the National Museum of Prehistory before going to our accommodation. That was before we got lost again. Google took us along the back roads, through the farmland skirting around the city. We found ourselves at a dead end T with the farmer on her scooter, chasing us to say we shouldn’t be there.

We high tailed out of there and as always when we our down these little lane ways we come across dogs. Most guard their owner’s properties and are tied up. When we pass they leap towards us with vicious barking. Thank goodness the chain chokes them to a halt. But this time we came across 2 dogs who were loose and decided to take a liking to us. Peter had one chasing him on the side and I had one behind me. Thank goodness for our Dazzers. They worked a treat and we lived to tell the tale!

Got to the museum and enjoyed it immensely. Learning about Taiwan’s geological birth. Tonight we enjoyed our time in the Music District, where “buskers” freely entertained us. This district included a modem building housing “shipping container shops”. All were really trendy and attracted the young along with the music and hamburger bars.

Day 20: Taitung to Chenggong (55 Km)

We had our first MOS Burger for breakfast. A voucher was provided form our Hotel for breakfast. We both loved our egg and bacon bun with coffee.

We had long day due to strong head winds and lots of stops sight seeing on the way.

The Taiwanese create attractions so that people visit the area. There were many sculpture and recreational parks along the road for tourists to stop.

We saw our first herd of cattle – 12 in total! We also met an Aussie guy who was married to a Taiwanese. We mentioned that we saw a few foreigners in Jinzun, the town we had just ridden through and he mentioned there was an influx of foreigners to this town for surfing. He said that they were “riff raff” and the locals didn’t like them.

We booked into Taitung’s Crab House. Quite a impressive building at the foothills. It was brand new in a great location with a wonderful view of the mountains .

We were advised to go the local seafood restaurant and we had our first experience of deep fired shark meat and mahi-mahi (dolphin fish). Surprisingly delicious.

We were not the only guests that night. When we returned their was a party in full swing in the communal area. Peter and I looked at each other and thought that this was not going to be the quiet night stay in the country that we anticipated.

Day 21: Chenggong to Shitiping via Fengbin (73 Km)

We were given breakfast in the “party” room, amongst the empty bottles and rubbish from the previous night’s bash. The host was very apologetic.

The problem with the building is that it is all tiles and the noise echoes throughout. Also the Taiwanese are not quiet people and especially after a few alcoholic beverages!

We headed off to Fengbin – where we booked our first Air BnB.

It was a lovely ride – the wind was not as strong and the terrain was easy to ride. We stopped at Sanxiantai, where again we say the Taiwanese building a feature tourist attraction. This time it was a bridge of 8 arches echoing the story of the “Eight immortals Crossing the Sea”.

We were given breakfast in the “party” room, amongst the empty bottles and rubbish from the previous night’s bash. The host was very apologetic.

The problem with the building is that it is all tiles and the noise echoes throughout. Also the Taiwanese are not quiet people and especially after a few alcoholic beverages!

We headed off to Fengbin – where we booked our first Air BnB.

We also stopped at the Baxian Cave which unfortunately we couldn’t see as the entrance was blocked off due to – not sure!! But the grounds were beautiful and very peaceful. We continued onto the Tropic of Cancer Landmark – again another major tourist attraction.

We rode onto Fengbin and headed down a small lane to where we thought our BnB was . Yes another dead end so back to the township again to….7-Eleven. We rang our host for the night and said we were “lost” – which was an under statement as we had ridden 15kms past the place!! Well, after riding 73 kms this girl was not going to ride backwards another 15 kms to reach the BnB!!

“Jack” from the BnB staff came to the rescue and picked us up in the car. We left the bikes parked in the bike racks at the Police Station and were driven to our accommodation.

the BnB was our best accommodation so far and luckily we had the whole place to ourselves. Spectacular views through wide glass windows of the accommodation on the east coastline and rolling waves. While we were waiting for Jack to pick us up we thought we should get dinner as we weren’t sure whether or not we would get a meal near the accommodation. So we got some stores.

Jack arrived and took us to our place. He mentioned that there was a restaurant over the road- very famous for ‘f’lying fish’, near by and we should go there. “People travel for miles to come to this restaurant.”

So off we went and had dinner of mountain vegetables and smoked flying fish. Not a great success with Peter so luckily we had a back up meal, 7- Eleven, again to the rescue!

Day 22: Fengbin to Hualien (58 Km)

Jack picked us up from our BnB at Shitiping and took us back to Fengbin. Bikes were still there at the front of the police station to Peter’s relief!

Since we had an early start we made good time and were in Hualien by 1pm. The Route 11 coastal highway had two major climbs; which we found relatively easy, Must be getting fitter!

The climb but was followed by 3 long tunnels through the mountain with a low downhill gradient and bridges over river mouths to add to some excitement on the ride. Also on the way we stop for a roadside drink and found some monkeys in the bush.

Both of us were feeling a little tired after a few days of hard riding so we have booked two nights in Hualien and we are going to enjoy a day off the bike tomorrow.

Day 23: Rest Day in Hualien

Great news, we managed to sort out our Social Media today as well as some sight seeing including the Night Market in Hualien. The Bike Tourers “Facebook”, “Instagram” and “You Tube” are all up and running. You will be able to follow us now and hopefully we can give you a better insight of our journeys.

Day 24: Hualien to Toroko Gorge – Heliu Campsite (47 Km)

We rode 20km’s before entering Toroko Gorge. The sun was shining and the ride was pleasant although quite a few trucks on the road.

The road through the gorge followed the Liwu river which contributed to the cutting of the gorge along with the uplifting of the earth plate shifting. It is famous for its gorge landscapes which feature marble rocks on both sides. We were both wowed by the spectacular landscape.
We winded our way through this spectacular natural wonder, stopping at every viewing platform and made our way to the top. It was late in day when we arrived at Tiaxiang at the top of the main gorge; where we celebrated by buying a few stores – including a bottle of Jacob’s Creek Shiraz Cabernet and a couple of bananas and a coffee. While packing our supplies in our panniers two monkeys jumped out of the park trees and pounced on our bananas. After restocking and felt a little cheated; we headed down the road to the Heliu Campsite, overlooking the Liwu River. We were the only ones there and the weather was amazing, warm and no wind so we enjoyed our noodles and red wine in the most beautiful setting. After dinner we cross a suspension walking bridge erected by the Japanese while Taiwan was under their control. What a feeling crossing the swaying – but obvious stable bridge over the gorge.

Day 25: Heliu Campsite – Xingcheng (20 Km)

Wet, wet, wet!!! We packed up our campsite in a window of opportunity – no rain and made our way slowly back down the gorge. Part way down we stopped for a short walk (700m ) at the “Tunnel of 9 Turns”, a section of the original tunnel crossing and the most spectacular viewing of the gorge. The two walls of the gorge were at the narrowest point of only a couple of 100 meters. Half way we came across the cascading water fall of around one kilometer high, what a site!

We both agreed this was the most amazing part of out Taiwan journey to sate.

Our window of opportunity didn’t last long as we had a wet ride all the way down.

Beef noodle soup was the answer when we got to the bottom and then headed straight you our accommodation to dry out.

Day 26: Xingcheng – Yilan via Heping via Heping and via Heping again!! (49 Km)

We had a big ride ahead, as we wanted to get to Yilan which was 98 kms from Xingcheng. Maybe a bit too optimistic, but we left early and made steady progress until we got to Heping, a short distance up the road.

To exit Heping we were following Google Maps and we got onto a new major road. Just before we were going through the first tunnel we found ourselves greeted by a police car reversing towards us with his flashing lights!! We were putting two and two together as just as we got onto the Freeway a person was screaming out to us on a loud speaker in Chinese from a control centre on the road. We had no idea what she was saying so we continued cycling as we did not see any restrictions for bikes on this road.?? Little did we realise we were on the major expressway where no bikes were allowed.

The policeman stopped as, said we are not allowed to be on this road. He took photos of our bikes from behind and asked us to follow him. Peter was ready to hand over his passport and the money for the fine but the officer was not interested.

With lights flashing we obediently followed. He set a mean pace which Peter could keep up with but Prue was lagging behind. So he made a sudden stop, Peter kept cycling and he waited for Prue to catch up. The officer then gestured to us to go on another road, we turned too early, so again we had the flashing lights from behind and him yelling at us to go the other way. We laughed as we attempted our second exit of Heping; finally, we were on the right road and the police officer was no where to be seen.

The road winded its way around the coastline and through very narrow old tunnels. Little did we know how busy it would be with trucks – there was a continuous stream of them and we were honked numerous times. We both were very uncomfortable on the road so stopped at the first train station to see if we could catch a train and get off the road. We couldn’t catch the train there with our bikes and were advised by the Conductor to go back to Heping Station and not to continue on the road as it was too dangerous. ( which we already knew by then)

We both agreed, so back to Heping we went. We were terrified that we would see the police officer again but we got into Heping with no problems and found the train station.

Peter felt at home in Heping as the Taiwan Cement Corp has a large production site which we passed three times.

We were on the train, quietly relieved to be off the road and away from the police. Arrived in Yilan, very smug as we reached our destination with only pedalling 49 of the 98 kms and no fines and no “go to jail” card!!

Day 27: Yilan to Fulong Beach (54 Km)

Prue went off to the market to find breakfast while Peter watched Trump’s address to the Nation on the Pandemic. We are in a quandary where to go next as the world locks down? But, there is one good thing in Taiwan, there is plenty of “toilet” paper here!! If anyone would like us to send you some let us know!!!

Still no decisions made, we headed off up the East coast. The ride out was pleasant off the main road to Coastal Highway No. 2. It amazes us every time how long it takes to get out of the major cities as they are so spread out.

We went to Langyan Museum. This impressive structure is built to simulate the gentle tilting stone escarpment common to Taiwan’s northeast coast. The architect was Kris Yao, a Taiwanese, and it took 18 years to complete. It houses the development and cultural heritage of the Yilan County

We continued up the coastal road and came across Caoling Qingyun Temple. Prue explored the temple and is always in awe by the colours, statues, carvings, designs and ornateness of these temples.

Peter found the campsite at Fulong Beach so off we rode on a bike path next to the road with a continual stream of construction trucks. We both were amazed with the number of trucks and unfortunately they took the pleasure away from ride along the coastal road.

We were relieved to get to the campsite and we were lucky to get a spot! There were 200 sites and we could have any site we wanted! (Something to do with the pandemic!!) Hardest decision out of the whole trip!

Set up camp and prepared for rain. Walked into to town and found the “WOW CAFE” and to Peter’s delight it was burgers for dinner – classic American Beef Burger with fries!

Day 28: Fulong Beach to Keelung ( by Train)

We woke up after a restless night, listening the a continuous stream of trucks on the road ALL NIGHT. It was our own fault, we had 200 sites to pick from and we selected a site too close to the road. It was raining as expected so we packed up during a dry short spell, then the rain settled in so we headed off to the 7 Eleven for breakfast and somewhere to stay dry. Luckily the train station was over the road so we gave in and purchased tickets to our next destination – Keelung.

Day 29: Keelung – Rest Day (0 Km)

Having a rest day due to wet weather. We are also in a dilemma due to Coronavirus and are uncertain what our next destination will be. Plans have changed due to Coronavirus pandemic and we have already cancelled South Korea. We are still watching Japan closely as maybe possible ?

We have decided to go to Taipei for a week and watch the situation before deciding our next move. We are enjoying Taiwan, the culture centers, variety of yummy food and the friendliness of the people. We have our temperatures measured every day as we enter public museums and public places, even local restaurants and shopping malls measure us and spray our hands as we enter. Taiwan is very serious on tackling the virus and is one of the better counties to be in at the moment.

Day 30: Keelung to Baishawan Bay (49 Km)

The sun was shining and we were keen to get back on the bikes. We planned a lovely ride along the North Coast Route towards Baisha Bay.

We aimed to go along the coast line but somehow we ended up in the hills – we missed our turn due to chaos on the roads while exiting Keelung. It seemed that everyone had the same idea of heading to the beach as the sun was shining after four days of wet and dreary weather.

Peter found a road leading back to coast. Hooray! We cycled along the coastline and through fishing villages packed with day trippers, all out to enjoy the sunshine and taste the local catch of the day.

We stopped at …….7-Eleven with the local “roadies”. While we were getting our coffee they were drinking the local brew – Taiwan Beer. May be we should try that as it may make us go faster!!

We met two cyclists, Jack and Jimmy, who were training for a cycling event for the end of the month but now has been postponed until October, which they were quite happy about as they have more time to prepare themselves. They were serious “roadies” as they weren’t on Taiwan Beer!

We made most of the sun and joined the Taiwanese on the foreshore having drinks and nibbles overlooking the ocean. We passed through Jinshan Shitoushan Park, which is very popular with the day visitors from Taipei. Similar to our Twelve Apostles but with only two Candle Sticks!

Headed towards are accommodation which was located inland in a small rural setting – with dogs!! We were greeted by Alan who couldn’t do enough for us and even showed us the way to the local restaurant that night. He drove and we followed behind on our bikes – Prue got the giggles as she struggled to keep up!!

Day 31: Baishawan Bay to Taipei (40 Km)

After a full Taiwanese traditional breakfast we headed towards Tamsui, the mouth of the Tamsui River. It is a popular spot for the locals from Taipei as it has a seaside atmosphere with riverside views and mountain backdrop, with lots of rowdy snack stalls.

We found a local delicacy – stuffed green onion roll deep fried. (We will let you know the proper name later!) and a frozen fruit drink. We sat with the locals listening to traditional Chinese music played by the local band.

A light cycling day, we only had 20 km’s to ride into Taipei along the river on bike tracks. What a lovely entrance into the Capital City.

Rest Day in Taipei

Today 18th March 2020; we woke up to hear the news from Australia of the travel advice DO NOT TRAVEL to any country in the world .

Much to our disappointment on our planned world cycle tour; due to the advice given, we have reluctantly decided to return back to Australia.

When the pandemic situation is brought under control; we intend to resume our planned journeys, though depending on the time of the year ( and temperature of the countries), we have no idea where we will pick up our planned path.

Tonight; to finish Taiwan on a High Note; we had a finality tour of Taipei.

What else but a visit to Taipei 101, the 508 meter tall skyscraper; which did rank the tallest building in the world when built in 2004 until to 2010. The twin elevators, built by Toshiba, travel at 60 KPH ( 40 seconds ascent / descent with a stomach felling rising up with the brakes gently put on.

Following are a few night time photos of the splendor of Taipei from the 89 floor of Taipei 101

As always we prepare for the rain so we bunkered down, covered the bikes with the tarp and settled in for a good night’s sleep.
It rained all night! We are understanding the weather patterns in Taiwan a little better!