November 2020

Hooray!! We are finally cycling again, setting off on the Mawson Trail, starting from our Australian base in Adelaide.
After 6 months in South Australia, spending time with Prue’s family between Robe and Adelaide, we have lost our bike fitness but still have our enthusiasm for our bike adventure.

The Mawson Trail can be covered typically in about 14 days (900Km) !! But we intend to take our time and explore the South Aussie outback, pedaling up to the Flinders’ Ranges, via the Adelaide Hills and the Barossa, passing through Clare, Quorn, Hawker and around Wilpena to the outback town of Blinman.
It is wet now at Hawker with a high rainfall today, but hopefully by the time we make this town the warmer weather will dry out the roads and make this trip a pleasant one.

SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE – PLEASE START FROM THE BOTTOM AND READ UP!

Day 22: Blinman to Parachilna

Wednesday 18th November 2020.

All refreshed from a good night’s sleep at the pub and excited to know we only had one more day’s ride before having two nights at the Prairie Hotel(www.prairiehotel.com.au), a quintessential Australian outback Hotel.

The road did not let us down – yes corrugated, loose gravel road with potholes!

Rode through the Parachilna Gorge, thankfully nearly all down hill except for half a dozen hills which we could ride without getting off! We had lunch in the dry creek bed and then left the Flinders Ranges onto the prairie. The road was flat and straight to Parachilna.

We arrived in Parachilna mid afternoon and were told the news that South Australia was going into a 6 day lockdown from midnight. Prue was devastated as the Pub was closing due to this lockdown! Peter was more concerned about the 500km ride home to Adelaide via the bitumen!

Lachie and Ellie who manage the Pub could not do enough for us, brainstorming ways of getting us back to Adelaide. They eventually got in contact with a couple, Yvon and Ram, who had stayed with them two nights before and were coming back to stay another night. They very kindly drove us back to Adelaide arriving at 11.30pm just before the 12 midnight lockdown.

Day 21: Acraman Camp to Blinman

Tuesday 17th November 2020.

Hooray, we have finished the MAWSON TRAIL.

We rode into Blinman early afternoon, the road into Blinman was a continuous uphill rise on a very rough corrugated dirt road. We weaved from one side of the road to other trying to find the smoothest section.

Blinman, an old copper mining town, is located on the highest point in South Australia, which we found out on entering the town. (Written on the sign). We both looked at each other and said, “Did we go the wrong way?” Should we have ridden from Blinman to Adelaide??

The campsite was located behind the Blinman Pub next door to the town’s generator. Yes you guessed it; we booked into the Pub. Peter was not having a bar of sleeping next to the generator on a dry dirt patch of earth when there was a perfectly good room 300 metres away!

Day 20: Rawnsley to Acraman Camp Ground (40Km)

Monday 16th November 2020.

We woke to what appeared to be “normal” conditions at Rawnsely Park Station. The creek beds had stopped flowing and the water had gone. No wind. Not hot and just the sound of the crow “cawing” in the gum tree. With relief, we made our way to Wilpena Pound via the highway as due to the rains overnight we were not going to take a gamble of getting bogged on the Mawson Trail!

It was a cruisy 23 km to Wilpena Pound where we had lunch, made phone calls to family and stocked up on stores for our bush camp that night.

We decided to ride the Mawson Trail from Wilpena Pound and again we were surprised how difficult it was and questioned what we were doing out here, fully laden, in the bush!

Leaving Wilpena Pound we followed a creek bed – which really was a rough walking track traversing the creek continuously. This meant we had to get off our bikes every time we crossed as the crossing was either too steep or too rough to ride.

Further on we eventually got to some sort of track and made our way slowly and painfully to our camp site! To Peter’s delight the camp site was near a main dirt road which he worked out later that night it was an alternative route to Blinman rather than going on the Mawson Trail.

Peter slept well that night!!

Day 19: Rawnsley Park Station – Rest Day

Sunday 15th November 2020.

A day in the outback which we will never forget. Forecast:- Temperature – 41º C Winds: 50-100 km gusts

We got up early as we wanted to walk to the Rawnsley Bluff and Wilpena Pound lookout before the extreme temperatures. We rode our bikes to the base and then did a 12.6km return walk with a 500 m rock ‘scramble’/climb. The effort was worth it as at the top we were rewarded with magnificent views over Wilpena Pound and the Flinders Ranges. We were so lucky to be able to do the walk before the high temp and winds set in.

On our ride home we got caught in an incredible dust storm which knocked us off our bikes. A little shaken and covered in dust we hot “footed” back to our cabin and “locked down” for the rest of the day. Due to the overload on the generator – all air conditioners on high, we experienced on and off power throughout the afternoon. This was not looking good for our dinner reservation which we had booked at the shearing shed restaurant that night.

We went to the shearing shed at 5pm for Happy Hour as we wanted to make a few phone calls before dinner. (The only place where we had coverage to make calls was on the Shearing Shed balcony). We arrived to be informed that the restaurant had no power and it was likely that the restaurant would not open. While talking with the staff, a mini cyclone came through. Horizontal rain and winds over 150 km causing all the balcony furniture to slide from one end of the balcony to other and over the railing. Trees were blown down and signage flying through the air in front of us. The building was shaking and the walls were flexing. So scary. All we could think of us was thank goodness we were not in our tent!

Once things calmed down, we did get a takeaway pizza for dinner and a bottle of wine and we were able to sit on the balcony after scavenging a couple of stools and a barrel from the pile of furniture.

Day 18: Hawker to Rawnsley Park Station. (37 Km)

Saturday 14th November 2020.

We left knowing it was going to be another hot day and the forecast for the following day was 40ºC with 53 km/hour winds. So “no flies on us” we booked two nights in an airconditioned cabin at Rawnsley Park Station.
Prior to leaving we treated ourselves to breakfast at Flinders Food Co. in Hawker. A little gem in the outback selling fine food and coffee. Over breakfast we discussed the options – 90 km on the Mawson Trail or 40 km up the highway.

Arrived at Rawnsley Park Station at 1.30pm (Yes, we took the highway!!). Checked in and went to the swimming pool for a dip. Followed by happy hour at the Shearing Shed and takeaway, retiring in our air conditioned pad. Bliss.

Day 17: Warren Gorge to Hawker. (71 Km)

Friday 13th November 2020.

We left Warren Gorge and it was all down hill. Yippee!! The scenery was superb (Fragless Range on RHS) as well as the riding conditions – not too hot and a tale wind.
As expected the road deteriorated and we were back on rocky, loose gravel roads – hard “bloody” work. We eventually got to Gordon where we had a choice to either continue on the Mawson Trail or go on the bitumen. It didn’t take long to make up our mind and straight to the bitumen we went!

We passed through the ruins of towns Simmonston and Wilson. Simmonston – the town that never was. It was planned when the railway was going to go through but they changed the route and it passed through Hawker instead.
Wilson – the town that didn’t survive due to lack of water. It was the principal town that confirmed the Goyder Line. A line that runs east-west across Australia. North of the line, the annual rainfall is too low to support crops and only suitable for grazing

We had our first experience with the “Outback” flies – even our “Bushman’s” let us down so out came the head nets – we love them!

Day 16: Wilmington to Warren Gorge. (71 Km)

Thursday 12th November 2020.

We left early and rode the Mawson Trail from Wilmington. The first 20 km the road was very rocky and surprisingly hard work. On the way we found a stranded sheep on the track who could not pass through the fence. Since the gate was nearby we opened the gate and Prue ushered the sheep back into the paddock, waving her arms madly. Peter was of little help, he just pointed to the gate telling the sheep to go that way.

The quality of the trail improved as we got closer to Quorn. We had lunch there and stocked up on stores and headed to Warren Gorge (22 km from Quorn) for another bush camp.

We decided to continue on the Mawson Trail which crossed the Range. The last climbed killed us and again we were off the bikes pushing them up the hill. We staggered into the campground, eventually found a flat piece of ground and made camp!

While having dinner we were surrounded by these birds – scavengers. It reminded us of Alfred Hitchcock’s movie “The Birds”.
Peter spent the next half hour throwing stones at them. Eventually they got the message and left us in piece!

Day 15: Wirrabara to Wilmington. (59Km)

Wednesday 11th November 2020.

We left Wayne and Lou’s farm late as we continued chatting over coffee and we stayed for the Remembrance Day flag ceremony. (Wayne has bought a new Australian for the occasion).

Due to leaving late we rode the highway straight to Melrose, stopping on the way at Murray Town for lunch.
We loved Melrose, a quaint town at the foot hills of Mount Remarkable.
Melrose is a cycle friendly center with mountain bike trails in Mt Remarkable, Melrose is also the oldest town in the Flinders. The “Over The Edge” bike shop with a coffee shop attached. What else does a cyclist want? Great place and Prue did not want to leave!

We left Melrose via the Wilmington Rail Trail, it was the roughest rail trail we have experienced, so we abandon the trail and rode to Wilmington on the bitumen.

A choice of two caravan parks, one on the main road and the other was over 3 Kms away in the bush (Stoney Creek Bush camp). Why are most caravan parks located on the main roads with noisy trucks passing continuously?? We selected the CP 3km’s away and Peter was happy as there was no trucks to be heard!

Day 14: Jamestown to Wirrabara. (67Km)

Tuesday 10th November 2020.

We experienced our first hot day (32ºC) with strong north winds. We left Jamestown with Prue still suffering from the side effects of the bee sting on her right side of her face still swollen.

The ride to Laura was hard work and the scenery was not as spectacular in this region. Laura was the home of the Golden North Ice Cream so we went straight to the shop and treated ourselves.
Leaving Laura we followed the Mawson Trail to Wirrabara on some tough hilly tracks with bog holes to manoeuvre around. We finally arrive at Wayne’s property and meet Lou, who both greeted us like long lost friends and gave us the key to their cottage.

Lou is a keen hiker and is currently hiking the Heysen Trail in stages (The Heysen Trail starts at Cape Jarvis and closely follows the Mawson Trail , all the way to Blinman).

Day 13: Spalding to Jamestown. (33Km)

Monday 9th November 2020.

Prue woke up with a right side swollen face and could not open her right eye! Spalding is too small for any medical assistance so we packed up and headed straight to Jamestown on the bitumen highway (33 Km), arriving mid morning and straight to the medical center for a doctor and some antihistamine.

Prue rested in the afternoon in the motel behind the Jamestown Commercial Hotel.
We decided to stay in Jamestown for Prue to rest and she doped up on antihistamines and by late afternoon she could open her eye.

We meet Wayne in the town park who was interested in our bikes and what we are doing. We had a good chat and as the Mawson Trail passed his property. Wayne offered us to stay with him and his wife Lou in Wirrabara.

Photos coming soon!

Day 12: Hallet to Spalding (48 Km)

Sunday 8th November 2020.

We awoke to hear the news that Joe Biden had won the USA Presidential election, Peter jumped for joy. 
The roads out of Hallet were smooth gravel and a joy to ride, until we had a taste of the red mud when Prue sank her front wheel; submerged in the sticky mud. 

We spent the next hour cleaning her bike.  So thankfully the remainder of the red clay tracks were dry.  

While cycling through the rich farming hills around the Green Pastures estate, Prue was unfortunately attacked by bees, one bee stung her below her eye while trying to escape from behind her glasses. Peter quickly removed the bees barb.

Otherwise a pleasant ride with one long uphill over the Northern Lofty Ranges then a long downhill into Spalding.  

No campground here so Prue asked the publican at the local pub is there anywhere to pitch a tent?  He took us in and let us pitch behind the pub, with the use of the toilets and showers.  Most civilized again? Prue’s bee stung eye had swollen up and was not looking good.

Day 11: Burra to Hallet (60 Km)

Saturday 7th November 2020.

We got up early as we planned to ride the 85 Km to Hallet on the Mawson Trail ( 32 Km on the highway), but realized we did not have sufficient stores for the next few days, so waited  until the Burra IGA opened.   The weather was cold and very windy  as we set off with our supplies. We road along the northern end of Mount Lofty Ranges and past Mt Bryan, just beautiful scenery with the ranges in the background and us pedalling along the foothills. 

Again, we were too late leaving Burra so we took a short cut, taking 25 Kim off our route and rejoined the Mawson trail to cycle into Hallet.  We meet Chris, who owned the General Store who greeted us like long lost friends.  Chris let us know we can camp free in the old Hallet railway building. We took up his offer and watched the beautiful sunset with a glass of wine.

Day 10: Clare to Burra (42 Km)

Friday 6th November 2020.

We departed our comfy Clare Air BnB on the Riesling Trail and diverted onto the Mawson just out of town. The old road to Burra started on very good gravel, then passed through farmers paddocks onto rocky red tracks heading uphill of Camels Hump Range. The old Burra road was otherwise straight and rough with lots of interesting farming going on. Lots of farm gates to pass through. We camped in the Burra Caravan Park on the local river which was quiet for a change.

Day 9: Clare (Rest Day)

Thursday 5th November 2020.

We celebrated our wedding anniversary today in true style and spoiled ourselfs in Paulett’s winery for a 3 course lunch by a award winning chef Thomas Erkelenz.

Day 8: Riverton to Clare (48 Km)

Wednesday 4th November 2020.

Our ride today was an easy 50Km to Clare, where we had booked accommodation for 2 nights in the Clare Valley, which is renowned for their Rieslings. The forecast for the day was hot, in the low 30 degrees, so we opted to ride the Rattler Trail to Auburn for a coffee then the Riesling Trail to Clare.

The Mawson Trail runs parallel on dirt tracks, while we pedalled steadily all the way on the smooth rail trail – Prue was very happy! We stopped for lunch at the O’Leary Walker winery and enjoyed a glass of Riesling with a grazing plate overlooking their magnificent vineyards. What a start to the Clare Valley!

Day 7: Kapunda to Riverton (48 Km)

Tuesday 3rd November 2020.

The weather was 34 degrees, so we prepared ourselfs for a hot day ahead.

Our ride today was to follow the Mawson Trail to Riverton, we left Kapunda and followed the red clay roads in a partial loop backwards in the hills on East side of the town. 16 Kms later we were only 2 km from Kapunda. Prue was %#@%#7*2@! not happy!.

We found the bitumen road and if we stayed on this road we would not make Riverton today? So continued on the bitumen and passed the Mawson Trail which was heading for the hills. (Prue gave a sigh of relief knowing that they were staying on the flat bitumised road!) We arrived at Tarlee at lunch time with the temperature 34ºC. It took a while to recover and eventually we got back onto the road. Not ideal conditions as we a strong head wind and the temperature was hot!

Peter took the lead drafting Prue, after 3 stops in 12 kms we finally arrived in Riverton with a little heat stroke! We set up camp in the Caravan Park, these parks seem to be always located on the main highway. Went the local pub to celebrate our wedding anniversary.

Day 6 : Tanunda to Kapunda (37 Km)

Monday 2nd November 2020.

We woke up fresh and ready to ride to Riverton, which is 75 km away on the Mawson Trail. At Nuriootpa, took a detour off the trail to ride to Greenock to meet up for a coffee with our friends Carol and Jonathon who were staying in the Barossa.

To rejoin the Mawson Trail we took a short cut as we did not ride backwards (as you know Prue only likes to ride forwards!) We used Google Maps and after two hours off passing through gates and walking across farmers paddocks, trying to maintain the fence line of the old road; we eventually popped out onto the trail at the designated point.

Prue said “fluke”, Peter said “excellent navigation”. Father Brown would be proud of us, no swear words were heard!

After this “long” shortcut we finally arrived at Kapunda early afternoon. With 50 kms still to ride to reach Riverton, we decided to find the local caravan Park and set up for the night.

Day 5 : Adelaide to Tanunda (Resume Ride 55 Km)

Sunday 1st November 2020.

We resumed our ride today and made our way starting in Adelaide and finishing in the Tanunda Discovery Park, where we last stayed.

Prue’s mother is still under care, but her family from New Zealand have now taken over. We cycled from Adelaide to Salisbury this morning (26 Km), caught the train to Gawler, then cycled to Tanunda (29 Km), via a direct route on the road to Salisbury, then followed the Barossa Bike Trail to Tanunda, passing through the Jacob Creeks winery.
Peter had an exciting moment as her sped down a steep decline and ran over a large snake the was slithering across the track. Peter had no choice but to run square over his mid length then pedalled like mad in case the snake curled up and through its self back at him. The snake was no where to be seen when Prue passed the spot. Now snakes as well as dogs are on Peters list to avoid!!
An exhausting days ride still with the full pack load, we had a well deserved rest after setting up our tent.

Adelaide to Blinman (Mawson Trail)

Day 4 : Tanunda (Rest Day)

Monday 12th October 2020.

The morning was spent with us blogging in the camp kitchen, which came to a sudden stop with just 3 days on the Mawson Trail. We had a call to come back to Adelaide unexpectly as Prue’s mother was not well and we could not continue the Mawson Trail at this time. We rode 27 Kms to Gawler and took a train back to Adelaide.

Day 3 : Mt Crawford Forest to Tanunda (45 Km)

Sunday 11th October 2020

We had a peaceful night with no koalas or motor bikes, waking up to an incredible chorus of singing birds and listening to the wildlife waking up around us. We were slowly getting into the groove of cycle touring, which we both love.

A very slow start to the day, both of us were a little tired after the last 2 days of riding through the forest on top of the Lofty Ranges. We continued cycling through the picturesque and undulating countryside. Peter had an exiting moment when he tore down a hill and didn’t see a large pothole through the shadows of the trees across the road, hit the pothole with a thud and both front panniers dismantled, a scary moment.

The Mawson Trail continued through the Jacob’s Creek Steingarten vineyard along the Trail Hill, which dropped steeply into the valley of Tanunda.

We both thought now this will be an easy ride into town, but this is the Mawson Trail, which set up another challenge to pedal up a series of clay hills around the approach into Tanunda, to test our endurance. The clay track would be unrideable if it rains.

Finally riding into town we headed straight for the pub to recoup and celebrate another days hard riding. We booked into the Barossa Discovery Park for the night, freshened up with a shower and walked into town for a pub meal. We drank Jacobs Creek wine to thank them for providing a fantastic picnic spot in their vineyard earlier for our lunch.

We were now realizing how hard this Mawson Trail is to ride with fully laden bikes. Even with unladen bikes the trail is an endurance ride. So hence since both of us have lost our bike fitness with 7 months of not riding, now stuffed we decided to have a rest day tomorrow!

Day 2 : Kangaroo Creek to Mt Crawford Forest (48 Km)

Saturday 10th October 2020

We woke up to the sounds of voices from morning walkers who were approaching so we got up quite smartly.
The day started with another uphill, too steep to ride, but since we were fresher we could push our bikes individually up the hill. Doing better than yesterday already!

We were able to ride the rest of the way to Lobethal, where we had lunch in a bush reserve. From here the ride passed through beautiful country with wild flowers through the undulating hills to Birdwood, where we restocked food and filled our 6 litre water bag for another nights camping out in the Mount Crawford Forest.

We hid amongst the native gums on a corner, away from the pines with a covering of scrub, both exhausted we settled down for the night to the sounds of the wildlife around us.

Day 1: Adelaide to Kangaroo Creek Reservoir (27+5 Km)

Friday 9th October 2020:

Started with an escort by our friend Richard from the “Adelaide Fatboys”, with a pleasant ride along Linear Park (Torrens River). We left Richard at Gorge Road and rode a steady gradient to the starting point of the Mawson Trail, at the Bachelor Road Intersection (27 Km).

We got onto Stone Hut Road, where both Peter and I came to a grinding stop, with a wall in front of us! An unbelievable brutal 500 meter climb in 5 kms. We were warned (many times) by reading other blogs by cyclists who have done it but did not realize how steep the track is !!
We met Tom who lived on the corner who also told us how brutal this climb is and said that we will be walking the next 5 Kms. He offered to take our “Ortlieb” panniers up to the top of the first rise (only 1 km) in his car. Prue took up his offer but Peter didn’t, which he later regretted.
To cut the story short it took us another 4 hours, walking and pushing our bikes fully laden, to cover the next 4 kms. Brutal / brutal / brutal…%%##$$

How many ways can you skin a cat ? ….well how many ways can you get a fully laden bike up a brutal steep track?
1. Get a stranger to take your panniers to the top while you push your bike walking up the ##**%% hill.
2. Push you bike fully laden.
3. When it is too steep get your partner to help you push your bike up first then go back down the hill and do the same again with your partner’s bike.
4. Remove the panniers and then walk /push the bike up the hill, followed by multiple trips, up and down the hill, to get the panniers. The number of trips depended on how many panniers you can carry at one time!

Otherwise only one other incident occurred with Prue’s pannier strap, flapping loosely and got caught in the front wheel, wrapping itself around and around the wheel, until it eventually snapped. Nothing broken and Prue was OK. “phew”.

A camp plot was found on the side of the Trail, exhausted and stuffed we set up camp, crawled into our sleeping bags with the sound of the grunting koalas which continued through the night.
Also, around midnight on the Gorge Road below over the other side of Kangaroo Valley, the motorbikes were heard “roaring” at 10,000 rpm around the bends; obvious having a late night competition.