United Kingdom & Ireland Republic 2023

England / Wales / Scotland / Ireland

8th September 2023

We left the United Kingdom from Dover on a ferry to Dunkirk, France.

Total for the trip was 2000 kilometres.

Day 69: Rochester to Faversham (53 km) and Train to Dover.

Thursday 7th September 2023,

We rode to Faversham, where we caught the train to Dover. It was a 93 km ride so riding to Faversham cut out 40 km. We had a ferry to catch the next day, so we could not miss it.

We rode along the bike path taking us through the Riverside Country Park. It is a large coastal park, situated alongside the River Medway estuary. Along the way we came across Horrid Hill – No one is exactly quite sure why it got it’s name.

We went through Teynham and passed some lovely old tudor houses. Tudor architecture originated in England during the Tudor periods 1485 – 1603.

We cycled along the busy road around many roundabouts, arrived at Kemsley to see if we could find a coffee shop to find some food. Not much luck but came across this café in an industrial area and they cooked up a storm. We sat on the grass under the tree.

When we arrived at the train station, our train was leaving on the far platform and we were both relieved that there was a lift we could use. When we went to the lift we were told by the one of the station staff we were not allowed to use the lift. We thought this was outrageous, so Prue went back to the ticket barrier and asked on of the station staff there, why we couldn’t use the lift. He said it was fine, so back to the lift and we put our bikes in one at a time. A little cross message but we were not going to carry our loaded bikes up and down stairs when there is a perfectly good lift!!

Thankfully we go on the train without any other problems. And we had two dogs to keep us company.

We arrived in Dover and then rode to our guest house. We were staying in accommodation as the ferry left very early the next morning.

To celebrate our last night in the UK we had fish and chips on the beach with some bubbles to toast and farewell to England.

Day 68: London East End – Rochester (65 km)

Wenesday 6th September 2023,

We left at early as Max was leaving for work at 7.30 am and we wanted to get the bikes down the lift before peak hour. Still only one lift working so Peter had to carry the bikes down one floor and then the bags where we then put all the luggage on the bikes and took them down the lift one at a time!

It sounded worse than what it was and we both commented it wasn’t too bad.

We had a not so nice trip to Rochester – most of the bike track was beside the M2 -traffic for Dover !!

On bikes you have to go out of your way to cross the roads at the roundabout – push the button wait for the traffic to stop cross over lane and do it all again when crossing the next lane – very tedious!!

We also rode down along the Thames passing all the industry. Further away from London the beauty of the River Thames deteriorated.

We did have an interesting ferry crossing on the Woolwich Ferry, the ferry went sideways.

Arrived in Rochester at 2pm, saw the cathedral and then rode to Karen and Tony’s place. Had a delicious dinner with Karen’s mother and Alfie and Poppy.

Day 67: Harpenden to London East End (60 km)

Tuesday 5th September 2023

After a great night with Sadie and Elvett, we set off on our bikes back to London – East End, where we had organized a Warm Showers with our host Max. We were now on route to Dover to catch the ferry to France. The sun was shining and the temperature was going to be 28 degrees Celsius!!! So we both felt good and warm.

We had a lovely leisurely ride to Hadley Green where we had lunch – picked lunch up at a bakery in a small village on the way.

While having lunch we met Chris who is avid cyclist and a track cycling coach so he was very interested in what we were doing and where we were going. Had a long chat and then headed off.

The next 30 kilometers were heading towards London and like Chris said it is a bit tedious and the ride not so pretty. Which it was and we saw our first bit of homelessness and rubbish everywhere – it really wasn’t a pretty ride in.

We found our Warmshowers host Max who greeted us warmly and advised us the lift to his floor was not working!! We all took it in our stride and took the lift to the 9th floor and walked down one flight

Max is an avid cyclist and bike packing tourer and just completed this January 4 weeks in Kenya!!

He also is a great cook! He cooked us a great meal. Thank you Max, we were very spoilt.

Day 66: London to Harpenden – (Train)

Monday 4th September 2023,

After a great weekend in downtown London, we took a train back to Harpenden, just near Luton, and caught up again with Sadie and Elvett.

Day 64-65: London – Rest days.

Saturday 2nd September – Sunday 3rd September 2023

Had such a special day with Peter’s family.

We went to Hyde Park and caught up with Caroline and Maisie, visiting from New Zealand and Rosie came with Barnaby and Eloise and their pet golden retriever – sorry Rosie we can’t remember the name of the dog!

In London and having a great time.

We loved the pubs and the flowers – stunning.

Day 63: Peters Green – Luton to London by Bus.

Friday 1st September 2023,

We left our bikes at Sadie’s and we caught the bus to London to catch up with Jane and Peter(Prue’s sister and brother-in-law). We were having 4 nights with them in London.

As their was a train strike we were super organised and booked the 9.45 am bus from Luton to London the night before.

Sadie drove us to the Luton Bus Station where we were catching the bus to London, in plenty of time.

When we arrived we found a queue. We didn’t think much of it as we knew we had our ticket. Well tickets are null and void in Britain and queuing is in!!

So to say in a very polite way we missed our bus because by the time we joined the queue we were number 36/37. The man from the bus company was walking along the queue giving out ‘lottery’ tickets and by the time he reached us we got numbers 36/37! The bus took 35 people – so we missed out. The people in the queue, who didn’t have a ticket just paid the Bus driver!!!

There was chaos and very unhappy people all in the same situation as us! Prue was speechless.

BUT THERE IS A MORAL TO THIS STORY. IN ENGLAND QUEUE!!

We finally caught the next bus to London, where we were greeted by Jane, and Peter. The fun began and the early events of the day forgotten.

Day 62: Woburn Sands to Peters Green, Luton (44 km)

Thursday 31st August 2023

A much shorter ride today thankfully. After a morning breakfast with Nick and Felicity, we left happily to ride to Peters Green to stay with Sadie and Elvett.

With our extra time today we were looking for a Library or Café to update our Blogging and book our ferry to France while passing through Luton, without much success, when very surprising Simon popped out of a café in the centre of Luton and asked us about our trip. We asked him if he knew of a place where we could do our blogging and have the bikes in eye contact. Little did we know he was the Manager of Pizza Express, so he kindly offered to store our bikes securely inside the local ‘Pizza Express’ around the corner. We had a couple of hours there and we were amazed and very touched, when we went to pay for our drinks, it was on the house.

We had 7 km to ride to Sadie and Elvett’s place in Peters Green and arrived just before it started to rain. We had a lovely evening popping into the local pub and picking up fish and chips to have at home. We had lot’s to catch up on as Sadie is my cousin’s cousin – so that makes us???

* Each pewter mug had an owner and when the owner came into the pub, they would find their mug(each one numbered) and then get the publican to fill it up with beer.

Day 61: Arthingworth to Woburn Sands (74 km)

Wednesday 30th August 2023

After a long days biking with sunshine, we repeat with sunshine and a few minor showers (It wouldn’t be England if it didn’t have showers!!) with us hiding under trees, two dark tunnels, reminiscing over our time in Japan, stopping at Salves Forest for a break in the sun and riding on the wide red bike path ways through Milton Keynes, we arrive at our Warmshowers accommodation provided by Nick and Felicity in Woburn Sands

And we found a rubbish bin in the middle of nowhere! I got so excited so I had to take a picture. The reason why, as in Japan there are no rubbish bins outside the city centres.

We had a lovely night with Nick and Felicity and was spoilt having a delicious homemade Chilli con carne.

Day 60: Loughborough to Arthingworth – The Bulls Head (75 km)

Tuesday 29th August 2023

Again we had a lovely ride along bike trails. Entering Leicester, we rode pass the National Space Centre, a very unusual shaped building housing rockets. It was designed by London architects, Nicholas Grimshaw and partners. To get the rockets in and out the front of the tower can be unzipped.

Then we stopped at the Leicester Abbey ruins for a coffee and if was the most amazing compound with spectacular gardens. We are amazed and the parks and gardens throughout Britain and Leicester did not let us down.

Riding through the town of Leicester, we came across this very imposing building(below) and Prue stopped to take a photo, thinking it was a very important building. A couple of metres further on it had a plaque stating it was the County Gaol!! It was built in 1828. We were not the only ones surprised by the striking castle-like structure as the locals thought that the building did not express the shame that the inmates should feel due to their crimes. 1832 was the last man hung at the gallows and placed on a gibbet for all to see.

From Leicester we went through Evington, where we had lunch. It was a little village that had every Nationality you could imagine – amazing contrast to Leicester and the next village Market Harborough – which we just loved. It had a lovely church, very famous Old Grammar School building as well as an array of lovely shops in quaint old buildings.

Another night in accommodation as we couldn’t find a camp ground near by.

Day 59: Paddock (Alton) to Loughborough – Link Hotel (81 km)

Monday 28th August 202 -Public Bank Holiday

Oh, what a day!

It started so well. We had a great down hill from our paddock, along bike paths, rail trails and then the tow path, alongside the canal(Derby & Sandiacre Canal).

We changed route to go via Derby to pick up our phone top-ups as they were expiring tomorrow. That was successful!

We then went to Redhill Marina Camp Ground. The owner showed us where to camp and we told him”bye bye”. The site was a disgrace, as well as being next to a nuclear power plant and next to the Kegworth Shooting Range(Clay Pidgeon), which was in full swing.

We rang other camp grounds – one was full, two others don’t take tents, so we headed for accommodation! Another 10 km – this time Prue didn’t complain about the extra kilometres as she couldn’t get out of the place fast enough!

We are finding the camping situation in Britain quite tiresome but the best news is it hadn’t rained but still cool and windy.

Day 58: Cawthorne to Alton in NW Derbyshire (75 km)

Sunday 27th August 2023

We left Joe, Eleanor and Ferdie early as they were heading off to their family holiday house in the Dales.

We had a challenging ride up the Bridle way out of Cawthorne that led us to Thurgoland where we stopped and had coffee at a great shop, Cellar 41.

Then we found cycle route 627, which led us through mountain bike heaven – they were out in force. We met Andy and Sean who jumped out at us on the path after doing a run through the mountains.

We had lunch at Sheffield and then carried on to Chesterfield – only claim to fame is the crooked spire.

We then headed for our camp site , that Prue still couldn’t find on Google Maps but Peter swore it existed and even Joe looked it up the night before and said it was basic but good.

Unfortunately when we arrived it no longer existed – which we were told by Peter Chapel, the farmer who lived next door!!

Peter very kindly allowed us to camp in his paddock. Which we gratefully accepted as we had already cycled 70 km and the hills and the wind were beginning to take their toll. We needed some water, so before we made camp in the paddock, we went to the closest farm house to ask for water. No one was home so we just found an outside tap, filled the water bottles and returned to the paddock

We set up camp, had dinner then jumped into our sleeping bags. All snuggled up in our tent – outside it was still blowing a gale.

Day 57: Hambleton to Cawthorne (53 km)

Saturday 26th August 2023

What a day. Tonight we were staying with Joe and Eleanor in Cawthorne so we decided to follow Google maps as we didn’t have time to get lost!!

The traffic was busy even on the ‘one lane’ roads, due to it being a bank holiday weekend and a train strike. 

We found stores for lunch at a little village and the owner was a 10 pound  Pom who lived  in Cairns, Queensland and came back to England?! We had our first picnic lunch in the sun with no wind – unbelievable after being here for 7 weeks.

We had a lovely evening with Joe and Eleanor and their son Ferdie, aged 5 who loves the King and Queen and we had a great discussion about the British Prime Ministers with him! He is a very special boy. 

Thank you Joe and Eleanor for a wonderful stay! 

We loved Cawthorne Village.

Day 56: Skewsby to Hambleton (75 km)

Friday 25th August 2023

75 km you say??

We had said our goodbyes to Cilla and off we set, ‘MapOut’ leading the way! And yes, it did what it does occasionally, lead us up the ‘garden path’. We found ourselves pedalling through the farmer’s paddocks. Peter had enough, so back on the bitumen road we went.

We wanted to stop in York to see the York Minster and The Shambles, historic street in York featuring preserved medieval buildings. On the way to York we came across Haxby’s Cycles. Nigel came to our rescue and fixed Prue’s pannier supplying a new handle with clip(which he took off a new Ortlieb bag) and a mirror for Peter. Amazing customer service!!

York didn’t let us down. We both loved York and were disappointed that we were just passin through.

We had 30 km to get to our camp site so we stayed on the main roads due to the lateness of the day.

It all went pear shape when we pulled into the camp site. Squires Caravan And Camping Ground. Little did we realise it was a camp site for bikies and they were out in force for the bank holiday weekend. Also, we were right next to the train line and highway – 3 strikes and we were out.

It was a delayed exit due to …… yes you guessed it rain – actually a heavy downpour! So we hid under the pine trees and waited for the rain to stop. While we were waiting we found accommodation, The Owl Hotel, 11 km away.

The rain stopped and we set off again following google maps, instead of MapOut – just to be safe.

You wouldn’t believe it, we found ourselves back in the farmer’s paddocks. This time we came across a locked barrier across the road. Fortunately we could get around the gate on the side.

We arrived at the The Owl Hotel and found ourselves on the top floor. We had to carry all our bags through the pub and up the stairs and no one came to help!! But the room was very comfortable and we had a lovely dinner.

Day 55: Skewsby – Rest Day

Thursday 24th August 2023

Just a gorgeous catch up day with Cilla.

Day 54: Blowgill Farm – Skewsby (42 km)

Wednesday 23rd August 2023

We said our goodbyes to James and Katie – we think they were very pleased to see us go as they had a party to organise!!

We had a short hard ride to Skewsby – more steep hills but it was a perfect day for riding – the sun was out and there was no wind!! After a week of very strong headwinds, the wind had finally decided to stop blowing!

We had a lovely coffee stop at Sutton Bank National Park then continued onto Ampleforth for lunch. We stopped at Byland Abbey on the way. The Abbey was completed in 1177 and housed 80 monks, who spent most of their days singing services in Latin and 160 illiterate lay brothers who served God with their labour.

We arrived at Cilla’s early afternoon. So nice to be there.

Day 53: Blowgill Farm – Rest Day

Tuesday 22nd August 2023

We had a lovely family day with the Freemans. Such a very special place in the North Yorkshire Moors. Thank you for making us feel so welcome and at home especially when they were in the midst of organising a big party for family and friends for this Saturday. We were no help!!

Day 52: Middlesbrough to Blowgill Farm – Hawnby (52 km)

Monday 21st August 2023

We left about 10.30 am making the most of our Hotel room and also we knew we only had a 40 km ride so we didn’t have to leave early. We were staying with the Freemans tonight.

5km down the road Peter says to Prue that he has left the poles for the tarp behind. They were on the floor at the entrance of the Hotel. So back we went!!

So our easy 40 km ride just became a 50 km ride – not so cushy!!

After collecting the poles, we had a lovely ride out of Middlesbrough along cycle tracks for 10kms, before getting into the country.

We had lunch at pretty little spot beside River Leven.

We got to Swainby and then the climb started to the North Yorkshire Moors. We had 3 very nasty steep climbs – all of them we had to walk the bikes up!!!

We found Blowgill Farm half way down a hill and Peter and I so were so very pleased to see it.

We are staying with Katie and James Freeman and their three children Ned, Ivo and Poppy. Prue has not seen James since she was in Scotland in her 20’s. So lots of catching up!!

Day 51: Middlesbrough “Rest Day”

Sunday 20th August 2023

This is a “Blogging Day” as we were way too far behind telling our adventure stories. (boring).

Day 50: Beadnell to Alnmouth (20 km) then Newcastle – Middlesbrough via train.

Saturday 19th August 2023

The forecast was a sunny day and we had 80 kilometers to ride. We started out leisurely on our route selected by the App – MapOut, which took us along the walking trails along the English coastline. The walking trail crossed a river which had large steps onto the bridge, so we had to remove all our bags to lift the bikes up and down the steps. Peter was not happy. It took us one hour to cover 4 kilometres.

Finally onto bitumen and off we rode, the sun was out but the wind was horrible, a gusty and strong head wind into our faces and pushing hard at only 10 kph, it was not fun.

We arrived at Alnmouth at lunchtime with only 20 kilometers covered. After much ‘soul searching over a wine and “Fosters” in the local Schooner Hotel, we decided to catch a train to Middlesbrough via Newcastle. We fluked getting the bikes on the train as they only allow a limited number of bikes on each train and we only booked the train and got the tickets when we arrived at the station. Also we were lucky the trains were even running that day, as there was a National strike and the trains only running every second/third day. But not so lucky as the trains were delayed due to minor train and car incident.

The two hour train ride covered two days of riding for us. We booked a Hotel to escape the weather and settled in for a comfy two nights, hooray!

Day 49: Berwick to Beadnell – (63 km)

Friday 18th August 2023

We got up early to pack up the tent before the expected rain!

Having breakfast, wanting the new gas canister as we had just finished our old one. Peter gave Prue the new one and lo and behold it was not a screw on for our MSR gas burner, it wash a ‘click and push on’- no use to us. Thank goodness fellow cyclists Irene and Duncan who had a pocket rocket, so we could have coffee for ‘brekky’. We love fellow cyclists.

So the next job was to buy gas canisters with a screw top fitting. One shop, two shops, three shops……… more????? 10 kms later we found our canisters!! We then headed off, following cycle route 1.

We were on the cliff tops and then Peter had a front pannier malfunction. Luckily, he had spare parts for Ortliebs and we were both surprised how quickly we were back on the road. Continuing on route 1, which led through us through the paddocks single track.

Got to Holy Island but unfortunately we didn’t have time to cross the cause way – did have lunch in the ex military target zone. We sat very low to the ground behind huge concrete blocks for shelter!!

We had 30 km to ride and unfortunately we got the rain – both surprised how well we cycled in the wet conditions. We did laugh though we as we were wearing 4 layers but the locals were all wearing a t- shirts!!

We passed the Bamburgh castle – wow!!

We set up camp all ready for a very wet night. We knew it was going to pour rain so we were prepared!

We had enough of the elements and wanted to get out of the wind so we went to the local pub. Amazing what a glass of wine does to make the whole day better!!

It was heavy rain all night until 4 am, then the strong winds came. Which we loved as the wind dried out our tent before we got up in the morning. So were dry and ready to start another day!

Day 48: Dunbar to Berwick-upon-Tweed (63 Km)

Thursday 17th August 2023

Our first stop was at the ‘The Battle of Dunbar’ monument, just outside Dunbar, home of the 1650 battle between the ‘Scotts’ and the English over the border.

We rode through some spectacular scenery which made the ride slightly easier as we had some climbs and a very strong winds. It was a hard day’s ride.

We had lunch at Ayton – gorgeous village and we sat at the local cafe’s table and chairs – thank fully they were closed so we could have our picnic lunch!

We did not get to our planned destination but Berwick-upon-Tweed was a good place as any to pull up, especially with their welcoming sign for cyclists.

We found a great Auto Caravan and Campsite on the town waterfront and the tent pitch’s had the sea view. But with the view goes with regulations – we had to put the tent up between the yellow post. We just ignored that rule, as our tent was not going to fit between the two posts. Our neighbours just moved the posts to fit their tent!! They were locals!

Berwick is on the Scottish – English border. Even the locals are not quite sure what country they live in??

Day 47: Edinburgh to Dunbar – (72 Km)

Wednesday 16th August 2023

We were treated to a magnificent selection of pastries for breakfast – perfect for our ‘carbo’ loading needed for riding – not!! We then set off, riding along the Union canal to downtown Edinburgh.

We had a couple of attempts to get to the tow path of the canal but once we were on it, it was an easy ride into Edinburgh.

*The full name of the canal is the Edinburgh and Glasgow Union Canal running from Falkirk to Edinburgh

We rode through the ‘old town’ of Edinburgh – the narrow streets behind Edinburgh Castle then a bike track to Mussleburgh for lunch.

We stopped at Haddington to get some stores for dinner and while we were there it rained again Then the sky opened up for some sunlight and we continued to ride along a bike track to our camp site Belhaven Bay Caravan and Camping Park.

Day 46: Bonnington – Rest Day

Tuesday 15th August 2023

We had a lovely day with Hugh and Ali. Sue and Frank came over for lunch which was great to see them again.

Day 45: Edinburgh – Bonnington (20 km)

Monday 14thAugust 2023

We spent a further two nights near Edinburgh, staying with Hugh and Ali at a Bonnington Farm. Hugh is the younger son of Frank and Sue’s.

Tonight we booked to go to the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. Hugh and Ali very kindly gave us a scenic drive into Edinburgh and dropped us off. Of course, it was raining and we had to queue in the rain, to wait to enter the Castle.

We do strike it lucky sometimes and thankfully the rain stopped before the Scottish Bands with Scottish Pipes marched into the arena. A spectacular event, not to be missed.

Day 44: Edinburgh – Rest day

Sunday 13th August 2023

As we suspected – not a good night – bad site! Due to the proximity of the camp to Edinburgh and the Military Tattoo was on, there was a rush to the toilets when the campers returned (midnight – 1am!). Loud talking and banging of doors etc etc. So we asked to be moved. Peter did a ‘rekkie’, selected the spot and we moved camp.

Once we were settled we caught the bus into Edinburgh. Then caught a tram to the waterfront to visit the Royal Yacht Britannia.

We spent the afternoon exploring the entire “retired” yacht; from the Captains Chair on the bridge, through the Royal suites and entertaining rooms, through the Petty Officers accommodation and down into the Engine Room. John Davey designed and built the yacht; the company is very familiar to Peter. The yacht has a huge laundry to wash the officer’s uniforms as well as a full medical operating theatre and a two bed ward. (Note: Corgi in the bed). Also the Laundry was set up to be a patient ward, if needed by the navy.

On the walls in the formal areas were gifts Your Majesty received on her travels.

We enjoyed the tour of HMY Britania immensely.

Day 43: Ayr to Edinburgh – Mortonhall Caravan and Camping Park (Train + 35 km)

Saturday 12th August 2023

We caught the train from Ayr to Edinburgh and rode the 20 km to Morton Hall Camp Site. From the camp ground there was easy access to Edinburgh via the bus, with the bus stop being outside the entrance of the camp ground.

We were given a plot next to the toilets – we knew we were in trouble. Also the neighbours had a child that would not stop crying. We both thought the same, “This is not going to be a good night!”

Day 42: Barr Hill to Ayr – Arrandale Hotel (73 km.

Friday 11th August 2023

We had a long ride to Ayr, but we were very thankful we had a tail wind which made the ride so much better!!

From Barr Hill we headed to the coast. We went through Girvan, Turnberry, Maidens, past Electric Brae and into Ayr. Accommodation for tonight was a Hotel due to …….rain and no camp ground.

Our Hotel was close to the beach so we thought we would have fish and chips on the beach for dinner. Good idea when it is sunny – not so good when it’s raining and blowing a gale – we had to find shelter. Thank goodness there was a pavilion, which we could take refuge but we ate the fish and chips in record time and returned to the comfort of our Hotel room.

Day 41: Garlieston to Barr Hill – (53 Kms)

Thursday 10th August 2023

After a relaxing morning, breakfast followed by a walk to the beach we said our goodbyes.

We rode back to Newtown Stewart where we met up with Rupert Gourlay, Sue and Frank’s son, for lunch. Prue last saw Rupert when he was a very young boy who skied very fast downhill with his brother Hugh in the Pyrenees in Andorra.

After an enjoyable ride to Barr Hill,

we arrived at our Warm Showers farm cottage for a stay with our hosts Colin and Lisa. Both are touring on occasions and Colin is now a Triathlete. Our accommodation was in a log cabin which Colin had just built.

Colin prepared the most amazing Scottish meal – a Scottish Scone with salmon and egg follow with a freshly baked Almond cake with strawberries and cream. It was better than a five star hotel. Thanks Colin and Lisa – it was well worth riding up the hill(twice) to get to your place!!

Day 40: Creetown to Garlieston Farm Stables (35 km)

Wednesday 9th August 2023

Today we were heading towards Prue’s friends at Garlieston where we were staying the night. We rode through the prettiest area on our way to Newton Stewart where we turned South to Garlieston.

On the way to Garlieston we stopped at Wigtown. Wigtown is Scotland’s National Book Town (1998). It is home to seventeen bookstores.

And we have never seen so many chimneys on the houses.

We rode through Garlieston to get to the The Stables of Galloway House, where Finn and Marjorie live. We stopped at the monument at Mulberry Harbour, where the WW2 Allies prepared for the Normandy Landing by designing and building landing bridges for the Army Vehicles onto the beach. The Mulberry Harbour and tides were similar to Normandy – France, so this area was perfect for trials to be done.

The stables and adjoining cottages are magnificent and we spent a very comfortable and fun night with the family. Finn is a brother of Prue’s friend Rob and his wife Sally, who are both great and long time friends now living in Tasmania.

Day 39 : Castle Douglas to Creetown Campsite – (61 Kms)

Tuesday 8th August 2023

We were sad to say goodbye to Frank and Sue and we nearly did stay another night due to the presence of very large and dark clouds above. Only a light short shower, so off we went.

A lovely ride through the countryside and great to be back on the bike.

Lunch was at Kirkcudbright Shire by the river. We had a bit of competition on the roads with the tractors and their large trailers, carrying the first cut silage for the dairy cows. Not a lot of room on the small one lane roads!!

We camped near the ruins of the Carsluth Castle at Creetown, which is near the head of Wigtown Bay.

Day 36 – 38: Castle Douglas

Saturday 5th August to Monday 7th August 2023

Sue and Frank took us for a tour around the area – lots of history and a very rich farming area.

We loved their cattle.

The ruins. Very sad to see that most ruins we saw have been fenced off due to safety issuse.

And we love the gate houses – the small houses at the entrance to the manor.

And the mansions.

We also loved Frank’s cooking. We were very spoilt to be able to try most Scottish dishes including Haggis – which we just loved. This soup was one of our favourite’s.

Frank and Sue kindly drove us to the Doonholm – Ayr, to have lunch with Peter Kennedy. Prue worked for the Kennedy family as a nanny in the 1980’s! Brought back lots of happy memories.

Day 35: Liverpool to Castle Douglas via Train

Friday 4th August to Monday 7th August 2023

Another train ride today, from Liverpool to Dumfries via Preston and Carlisle. We were again concerned about the next few days weather forecast, rain, then more rain, so we opted to stay dry and enjoy the train ride. We were greeted by Frank, who was Prue’s “boss” when she was employed by Frank and Sue Gourlay, who ran Andorra Holidays in Andorra during the mid 1980’s.

Their neighbour, Amanda very kindly had us to stay as Frank and Sue did not have a spare room.

We had no time to get settled before we were whisked away to Sue’s niece’s party – what fun and every one was dressed up, the theme was the 70’s.

Day 32 to Day 34: Liverpool

Tuesday 1st August to Thursday 3rd August 2023

We both enjoyed a relaxing 4 days in Liverpool. We had great fun exploring the town, with a few drinks in The Cavern, listening to some Beatle songs and walking the streets amongst the grand Liverpool buildings.

We met Jo Allen, a long life friend of Prue’s from Adelaide and enjoyed lunch with her friend Olive with a Scouse* Stew. * Its origin is not known but it is a recipe, that has travelled form port to port from sailors who consumed it. Hence it is a popular dish in port towns particularly in Liverpool

We visited the Liverpool Cathedral, the largest cathedral and religious building in Britain. The eighth largest church in the World. It was bassed on a design by Giles Gilbert Scott (aged 22) and was constructed between 1904 -1978. The cathedral had a cafe on the side of the main body of the church which we thought was interesting and a great idea to make it feel more of a living space rather just for prayer. Also it had a few sculptures and a major installation by Peter Walker – “Identity – We Are All Together”. Seven illuminated columns suspended over the Well. It was quite spectacular. The Cathedral was breathtaking.

We also visited the Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral. Locally known as “Paddy’s Wigwam”. Quite different to the Liverpool Cathedral. It also houses contemporary art work and sculptures.

We particularly liked the sculpture “The need for Freedom”, by Ukrainian artist, Dimitry Iv. It represents the figure of a chained but rising woman. It represents the struggle of Ukraine for freedom

We were fascinated with the Liver Building – one of the many beautiful buildings in Liverpool

Also, no city is without a China Town and Liverpool is no exception. Liverpool has one of the oldest and largest Chinese communities in Europe. The magnificent Chinese Arch, is the centre of the area. All the decoration used on the arch was made in Shanghai.

Of course we explored the Fab Four on the Albert Docks and loved the Mersey waterfront.

Day 32: Bangor to Liverpool via train (Rode only 9 km)

Monday 31st July 2023

We rode back to Bangor to catch the train to Liverpool. The forecast was for more showers, strong winds and we were not interested in competing with the natural forces on our bikes, so we hopped on a train with a thousand others. School holidays and only two carriages!! It was an interesting trip.

We booked 4 nights at an apartment in Liverpool, in the Baltic Triangle, near the Mersey River, to hide from the weather.

We arrived and it was a “Mr. Bean” movie.

1. Our room had a semi-blocked drain in the wash room basin, so the owner put us into another room. Peter opened the room with the key and “lo and behold” someone else was in there. Thankfully they were not in bed!!
2. Back to reception and the owner apologised profusely and gave us a key to another room. We went in and Prue said that this room had not be vacuumed. So back to reception.
3. The owner then gave us the key to the original booked room (with the semi-blocked drain) and the owner said the plumber will fix in the morning. He also gave us a TAB for a free breakfast at the Baltic Hotel to make up for the inconvenience.
4. Then the piece de resistance was when we opened the door to the balcony, we didn’t realise we had to open the vertical blinds first, so when we opened the door the vertical blind track became lodged on the wrong side of the door…………. so to get the track back on the right side we had to dismantle the vanes. In the middle of us reconstructing the vertical blind the door bell rang and it was the owner! He came up to tell us that the plumber was coming the next day at 9am. Well, we go hysterical as we couldn’t let him come into our room to see ………(picture below)

You would be pleased to know, he didn’t see anything and we fixed the blind. We went out for dinner as we thought we deserved a treat – what an entrance to Liverpool!!

Day 31: Holyhead to Bangor (Dina’s Farm Site) – (53km)

Sunday 30th July2023

Holyhead is on an Island, which is joined to Anglesey by a causeway. Anglesey is also an island connected to the mainland by two bridges, the Menai Suspension Bridge and the Britannia Bridge. We were fortunate that the ride to Bangor was rain free but the last 7 km to camp the rain started. We are getting very good at setting up our tent under our tarp!

Day 30: Dublin to Holyhead via Ferry (23 km)

Saturday 29th July 2023

We had a lovely ride through Clondalkin, along the canal, bypassed Dublin and arrived at the ferry terminal, miles from anywhere!! This was the first time we couldn’t ride the bikes onto the ferry and had to go as passengers. The bikes went as luggage.

It was a lovely smooth crossing, and then just a quick ride to our campsite.

Day 27/28/29: Dublin

Wednesday 26th, Thursday 27th and Friday 28th July 2023

We had a great start to Dublin by taking a walking tour with “Yellow Umbrella Tours’. We were very fortunate to be able to take Jame’s tour. James is a cousin of Peter’s great friend Paul. We highly recommend taking the tour, as all guides are Dubliners, love Dublin and passionate about the history of Dublin. They also give you ‘inside’ information where you should go.

Prue’s highlight was the Chester Beatty Museum. Chester Beatty (1875-1968) was one of the greatest collectors of the twentieth century. His eye was drawn to rare books, richly illustrated material, fine bindings and calligraphy and his commitment to preserve texts for their historic value. It was the most magnificent collection. Amazing.

Peter’s highlight was the Temple Bar. It is famous for its traditional ambiance, unrivaled vitality, traditional Irish music and “craic”!

James suggested us to do the ‘Traditional Pub Tour ‘. They visit three pubs “off the beaten track” and away from the tourists where you will experience the traditional Irish pub experience. So off we went to the Black Sheep, a craft beer brewery, then to the Jack Nealon to taste Guinness then last of all Slattery’s Bar for a whiskey and a gin and tonic tasting. Then to finish the night. we went to another pub where they were playing traditional Irish music. What a fun time we had with Erik and Petra.

The next day we caught the train to Howth, a small village on the Howth Peninsula where it is famous for its fish and chips and cliff walks along the headland. We did both.

Day 26: Hacketstown to Dublin – Camac Valley Camp – Dublin (72 km)

Tuesday 25th July 2023

We had a sleep-in and didn’t get away until 10 am. Quite late for us.

Today was not as undulating and it was perfect weather for cycling. We both commented that sunshine is the number 1 thing you need for enjoyable cycle touring! Even though we were only in Ireland for a short time we fell in love with the country and we particularly liked their patriotism, narrow lanes, stone walls, yellow houses, red doors and the beautiful scenery.

We were on quiet roads all the way and then suddenly we were thrust into very busy city traffic on major freeways!! We wondered how on earth that happened as there was no warning. Fortunately it wasn’t far to our camp site.

Day 25: Castlebridge to Hacketstown – Raven’s Camp Site (75 km)

Monday 24th July 2023

We had two days to get to Dublin before another heavy day of rain. So we had two big days of riding, extra big as we were a little out of practice due to having 10 days off the bikes!

Today we had a total climb of 974 metres up and 815 metres down – so it was a very undulating ride on small roads, through the countryside. We both were challenged but loved being back on the bikes and even more to the point, there was no rain. Maybe it was due to the blessing one of the local’s who said to us, “May the good Lord look after you.”

The churches in Ireland are much bigger but are not as ornate as the churches in Britain but the graveyards are far more ostentatious.

We arrived at our camp site and our first impressions were it was a little hicksville, but we were greeted warmly by Deidre, who immediately put us at ease and said, ” I know what tired cyclists want? Peace and quiet and far away from children as possible.” So she put us in the back paddock all by ourselves, with only sheep as our neighbours! We loved it.

Day 23/24: Rosslare Harbour to Castlebridge (25 km)

Saturday 22nd and Sunday 23rd July 2023

Three days, cycling a total distance of 25 km but had 3 lovely nights in three BnB’s!

Day 22: Cardiff to Rosslare Harbour (IRELAND) via Pembroke Port!

Friday 21st July 2023

What a day. We had a ferry booked to go from Fishguard to To Rosslare(Ireland) on Sunday morning. So we decided to catch the train to Carmarthen and then ride to Fishguard on Saturday. Whilst we were on the train to Carmarthen we got a message from Stenna Ferries that all ferries from Fishguard have been suspended and we now had to go to Pembroke Harbour to catch the Irish Ferry to Rosslare.

We had a couple of hours in Carmarthen. Very quaint village with lots of antique shops, galleries and cafes. We went to Karm’en Kafe – such a fun cafe – loved the wall paper, the perfume bottles and of course the coffee and the yummiest cakes!

To cut a long story short, we then caught another train to Pembroke Harbour. Since we arrived in Pembroke Harbour in time for the Friday Ferry, we thought we would see if we could get on it instead of waiting for the Sunday ferry. We were in luck.

So we arrived in Ireland to glorious rain……hence a night in a BnB.

Day 21: Brecon to Cardiff via Abercynon

Thursday 20th July 2023

It was a glorious morning – the sun was out. We had to return the van today so we did our washing and cleaned up the van before leaving the camp ground.

We had a bit of time so we popped into Brecon to have a coffee. The town was a buzz and you will never guess who was in town?? King Charles and Queen Camilla!! We were told to go to the Brecon Theatre and we would see them there.

What a lovely unexpected surprise and we really didn’t think we would actually shake hands with them and have a conversation, albeit a short one! We just thought we would see them.

We were running late to return the van and we didn’t have enough time to ride our bikes to Cardiff so we caught the train back to Cardiff from Abercynon where we dropped off the van.

Day 19 & 20: Brecon

Tuesday 18th and Wednesday 19th July 2023

We planned to go to Brecon and explore the Brecon Beacons.

It rained all day on Tuesday – just miserable so we slowly made our way from Gower to Mumbles Beach , back to Swansea to get stores and then headed to our camp site The Pencelli Castle Caravan and Camping Park. The flowers here were beautiful.

Wednesday, the sun came out so we headed to the Brecon Beacons.and climbed Bryn*, 2608 feet (795 metres). It was a lovely walk from the camp ground. We passed through St Meugan’s Church, Llanfeugan churchyard and popped into the church. It is a beautiful little church.

We climbed Bryn* – 2608 feet (795m) and had some lovely views of the countryside. We missed the path coming home and ended up going straight down the hill through the bracken – of course Prue slipped and fell, at least it wasn’t a face plant!

• Bryn is the 4469th highest peak in the British Isles and the 307th tallest in Wales! So it really wasn’t anything spectacular what we did!! (Ha Ha)

Day 18: Gowa Peninsula

Monday 17th July 2023

We decided to have another night in this area as everyone said we must go to Rhossili Bay and Worm’s Head.

It was well worth it. On the way To Rhossili Bay we stopped at Port Eynon Bay and had a coffee and walked along the beach. The yellow flags were out but there were not too many swimmers.

Then we drove onto Worm’s Head. It is named for its resemblance to a resting dragon. There are a lot of beautiful coastal walks in this area.

We moved camp and stayed at Nicholaston Farm, where we could get WiFi. The farm had a lovely steep walk to the beach which we did after dinner. The beach is between Oxwich Bay and Three Cliffs Bay.

Day 17: Glyncoorrwg to Gowa Peninsula

Sunday 16th July 2023

We went into Swansea to get stores and then headed out to Gower via Mumbles Beach which everyone recommended.

Little did we realise that there was an ironman competition on which literally blocked all the roads on the whole peninsula. All we knew was that we would go further into the peninsula and stay the night – we were not going back in that traffic.

We made camp at Kennextone Camping and Touring Park and then walked to the Kings Head in Llangennith and the sun came out. In the same town we found a Rip Curl shop – we were both very surprised. On our walk we just loved the scenery and the beautiful stone walls. Also, each village has an old stone church with the old grave stones. Prue just loves them.

Day 16: Cardiff to Abercynon (via train) (26 km) then to Glyncoorrwg by van.

Saturday 15th July 2023

We rode to the station to catch the train to Abercynon, where Berwyn from Taffi Campers was picking us up and taking us back to his office – container on his neighbour’s property!! He put a bike rack on the van specially for us, Thank goodness he picked us up as it would have been a very long ride up a very steep hill. The Welsh are so layed-back and so friendly we felt quite comfortable hiring the van from Berwyn.

After a handover we took off with absolutely no idea where we were going and it was pouring with rain. We picked the closest campsite, in a small coal mining village, Glyncorrg. Peter drove us through some magnificent country, up through the hills, (Treorchy and Bridgend) with spectacular scenery, incredible mountain drop offs through the Welsh hills. We would have never have seen this scenery if we hadn’t hired the van. Then he had to deal with the supermarket traffic jam and the narrow roads – who gave way to whom, or was it every man for himself!

We survived our found oursleves in a very quiet and quaint camping ground, Willow Springs, run by a young “earthy” couple.

We thought we deserved a drink at the pub, so we walked into town and went to the local Town Hall – the only drinking place in town! Also we notice how patriarchal they were with numerous Welsh Flags flying.

Day 15: Cardiff – Rest Day

Friday 14th July 2023

We were very happy with our accommodation and we were very snug whilst it was teaming with rain outside. In the afternoon the rain did stop for an hour or two and we ventured out and had a walk around town.

Our time was taken up with – “what do we do?” as the weather forecast for the next week was rain, rain and more rain.

We did walk the animal wall in Bute Park.

After long deliberation of all options we cancelled going to Ireland and decided to hire a small motor home(van), which was available for 5 nights, which got us through the worst of the rain period. We will collect it tomorrow.

Day 14: Crickhowell to Cardiff (75 km)

Thursday 13th July 2023

Change of plans……… Left our route to head to Cardiff due to severe weather warnings for Friday and the weekend. Even the owner of the Caravan park told us to take cover!!

We selected Cardiff because we thought we could catch the train from Cardiff to Fishguard where we were going to catch the ferry to Ireland. It was a long ride but we knew it was mostly down hill after an initial climb.

The initial climb was 400 metres high over 12 km. This took us an hour and a half which included going along a rail trail so the incline was quite gentle and the climb was well worth it.

We encountered several different types of barriers en route but were manageable! Peter was happy!

Day 13: Chepstow to Crickhowell (73 km)

Wednesday 12th July 2023

We set out to to see Tintern Abbey. It is a National icon, consisting of ruins being a mixture of building works covering a 400 year period between 1131-1536. But we took the wrong road out of town, so ended up coming back into Chepstow, not seeing Tintern Abbey are headed to our destination Crickhowell!!

We rode along quiet country roads in between taking refuge under trees from the rain. The rain comes down very suddenly and very heavily, giving us little time to find coverage before getting absolutely saturated!

The last 12 km we rode along the canal which was very pretty and even the sun came out.

When we arrived at Crickhowell Peter realised we had booked the wrong camp ground. The one we booked was a 3 day ride away! Thankfully there was room for us at the Crickhowell Camp Ground! After a long day we decided to go into town and have dinner at the local pub! Another very pretty village.

Day 11 & 12: Chepstow – Rest Days

Monday 10th and Tuesday 11th July 2023

We are in Wales! Funny, Chepstow is in Wales but where Ben and Caroline live they are still in England.

The weather is not good, Prue needed a rest, so we decided to say for a couple of nights and thankfully we had the place to ourselves. We had a walk around Chepstow and it is such a lovely, quaint village.

We went to the Chepstow Castle – Wales first castle built of stone in 1067 by the Normans. It is the oldest surviving post -Roman fortification in Britain, located above cliffs on the River Wye. Quite spectacular.

Day 10: Chepstow to Chepstow!! (6 km)

Sunday 9th July 2023

We said goodbye to Ben and Caroline. We interrupted their Sunday sleep-in, as we all had a late night but we went to bed before them and we were keen to get on the road so they said their goodbyes still in their pj’s and very sensibly were going back to bed!! We got as far as the town centre and booked accommodation due to the rain !!

We found a local pub with newly renovated rooms and they were closed to the public Sunday to Wednesday – so perfect! Until the other guests arrived which turned into a horror story. Prue was too scared to get out of her room!! To cut a long “night” short, they were the customers from ”Hell’. We found out from the owner the next morning that they stripped the room when they left!!

Day 9: Boyd Valley Lake to Chepstow (54 km)

Saturday 8th July 2023

We had a good night sleep and had a lovely ride to Chepstow on the Avon Bike Trail Bristol – Bath.

Of course showers during the day where we took shelter under a very big tree in the church gardens.

We had a Warmshowers tonight. Staying with Ben and Caroline who live under the Severn Bridge. What a fun night we had with them and how spoilt we were to be treated with a BBQ and a very comfy bed – warm, dry and well fed. Their hospitality was so generous.

Day 8: Bury View Camp Site to Boyd Valley Lake (14 km)

Friday 7th July 2023

We moved camp due to our noisy night from the planes.

We had arranged to meet Nick from Gloucestershire(who we met in New Zealand), in Saltford at the local pub. It was perfect as we passed through Saltford to get to our new camp site. We had a lovely lunch and afternoon with Nick. Nick also brought Sara, his mother, which made it extra special.

After lunch we went to our camp site. It was a little worry to begin with as the permanent clientele looked a bit rough, but we were put at ease by the owner, and it did have quite a few plusses: a table and chair, no traffic noise, no header noise and no planes. Facilities basic but clean. We were happy.

Day 7: Foxhangers Canalside to Bury View Camp Site (48 km)

Thursday 6th July 2023

We had a lovely ride along the Canal. We met Jim, 75 years of age. He sold his house at 73 years and bought a narrow canal boat and has been living on the boat for 2 years and loving it!

The canal takes your through Bath where we had a look around. Very busy city full of tourists.

We continued riding through Bath along the Avon bike path and turned up towards Saltford to Bury View Farm.

It was another Farm Camp Site, run by an elderly couple. We were in their back paddock, which was close to the main road. But not only did we have the road noise, the header was going in the next field and the planes were above!! The planes were the issue at this campsite, especially from 12 midnight – 2am. Thank goodness the header had stopped.

Day 6: Hungerford Newtown to Foxhangers Canalside (Devizes)(67 km)

Wednesday 5th July 2023

We said our goodbyes to Brenda. The sun was out but I still had 4 layers on!

We got onto the quiet roads and rode into Hungerford to have a morning coffee (6 km). While we were having coffee we caught up with Brenda and another couple who we met the day before. We felt like locals.

We left Hungerford and headed into the countryside. Prue felt she was in an English movie set.

We had lunch in a small village park and found this very old church. Each village has a pub and a church. This church was quite delightful.

We still had another 35 km to go so we headed back to the canals to finish our days ride.

We arrived in Devizes and came across the Caen Hill Locks. It is an awesome example of canal engineering. It is one of the longest continuous flight of locks in England There is a total of 29 locks with a rise of 237 feet over 2 miles (That is 72 meters over 3.2 km) with a 1 in 44 gradient! It takes about 5- 6 hours to traverse the locks by boat.

We met Michael from Ireland who was riding to London. He had a very traumatic time riding along side of the canal. He was explaining that in one area of the track it was very narrow and one of his panniers hit one of the stakes that the canal boats are tied too and was knocked off. The pannier ended up in the canal! This pannier had his passport and electronics, so he was very distressed. Thankfully he got the pannier back, but the contents were very wet! He had a good debrief with us, even showing us his wet pj’s. I think he felt better after sharing his mishap with us and then he headed off with an Irish smile.

All Peter and I could say was thankfully it didn’t happen to us, so we were very careful when we continued cycling along the canal. Watch out for those stakes!

Our camp ground was at Foxhangers. It is a small family business that offers self-drive narrowboat holidays on the Kennet and Avon Canal. They also provide basic camping in their back paddock. They supply toilets, showers and a sink to do the dishes. There is no cover, seating area or kitchen area to cook. This is typical for all farm camp sites, very basic.

Prue loved the farm house – she felt like she was on the set of the movie ‘Babe’!

Day 5: Oakley Farm Caravan Park to Hungerford Newtown (22 km)

Tuesday 4th July 2023

We had a leisurely morning ride and arrived in Hungerford where we had coffee, then lunch watching the weather come in. Oh what to do? Carry on or find somewhere to stay? We checked the weather forecast again and yes rain for the rest of the day to late evening. So back on booking.com and we found a lovely room at the Tally Ho pub.

The Tally Ho pub is a community pub, where we met Brenda, one of the owners, who lives next door and and very kindly said we could keep our bikes in her garage. Also, we had lovely staff, Harriet and Hugo – so delightful and we were greeted like royalty.

The best part was dinner at the pub. Peter had his first English Fish and Chips and I had bangers and mash for dinner..

Day 4: Maidenhead to Oakley Farm Caravan Park (77 km)

Monday 3rd July 2023

We said our farewells to Mike and Vicki – another fantastic Warmshowers experience.

We set off on National Cycle Route 47 – The Celtic Way. It was such a lovely ride to Reading.

From Reading we joined the Kennet and Avon canal, that runs from Reading to Bristol. It was a lovely scenic ride along the side of the canal until we came to a large branch fallen across the track causing us to turn around and go back on the main road. That wasn’t fun. The roads are narrow, they have no shoulder and no footpath. Fortunately the Brits do have patience so it could have been a lot worse.

Day 3: Hayes to Maidenhead (38km)

Sunday 2nd July 2023

We couldn’t wait to leave our guesthouse so got up early and made a very quick exit!

We only had 26 km to ride to our Warmshowers in Maidenhead via Eton and Windsor – what a lovely first day ride.

Eton is such a gorgeous little village and was very ‘British’ with flags and banners everywhere, celebrating the coronation of King Charles.

Then onto Windsor across the river Thames.

After riding around Windsor we headed to our Warmshowers – Mike and Vickie who live in Maidenhead. What a lovely night we had with them and was very spoilt having a wonderful pasta dish cooked for us.

Day 2: Heathrow to Hayes (8 kms)

Saturday 1st July 2023

We wanted to stay another night near Heathrow to catch up with Rosie and her husband Jay and their two children Barnaby and Eloise. Prue was Rosie’s naany when she was 6 months old – that was 40 years ago!!

Due to late change of plans the Hotel price jumped 3 fold so we booked elsewhere and what a mistake that was!!

We left our bikes at the guest house prior to catching the train to Rosie’s. We had a lovely afternoon with them and Jay’s parent’s were there as well. The sun even came out.

Day 1: Heathrow

Friday 30th June 2023

We started our United Kingdom tour in England and were welcomed with an overcast day and drizzle! Peter loved the taxis as we could fit both bike boxes, the two big bags and hand luggage and us all in the one taxi!! Straight to the Hotel with no problems.