Day 83 – 88: Saporro

Saturday 24th June to Thursday 29th June 2023

We have rented an apartment for 6 nights to recuperate and get ready for our next country. We are busy finding bike boxes, cleaning bikes, packing bikes, cleaning camp gear, washing all clothes and enjoying the luxury of being slightly “normal”, having our last Japanese meals – our favorite’s !

We look forward to our next adventure starting in London Heathrow on Friday June 29th 2023.

Sayonara Japan.

Day 82: Jozankei – Sapporo ( 35 km)

Friday 23rd June 2023

We left Jozankei and stopped at a crepe shop on the way to Sapporo.

It was all down hill to Sapporo and the last 10 km we were on a bike track – well we thought we were on it all the way until we came across a barrier preventing us to go on due to bears. This park was only 7 km from the main centre of Sapporo.

We had an apartment booked for 6 nights before we fly out to the United Kingdom and could not check in until 3 pm so to fill in time we went straight to the Sapporo Beer Museum and Beer garden!!

Day 81: Kyogoku Three U Parking Ground – Jozankei (60 km)

Thursday 22nd June 2023

Another day with a headwind and a very long and gradual climb (37 km) to Nakayama Pass, 835 meters.

We arrived at the top and had a celebratory drink from the vending machine – hot coffee in a can.

Then we had a 20 km steep downhill through tunnels, snow guards, over bridges spanning deep ravines, through spectacular scenery. It was the best!! We did stop for the occasional roadworks and photo shoot!

We arrived in Jozankei, which is an “onsen” town, 26 km from Sapporo. It was overcast, windy and not very warm so we went to the tourist information centre and asked if there was a minshuku or ryokan, that had a room for the night. We were in luck. It was our last ‘hoorah’ in Japan. The red carpet was out, waiting for us.

Once settled we went to the in-house onsen, which had a lovely outside bath, then you put your “yukata” on. Dinner was at 6pm, so we went down in our yukatas (Prue did, Peter dressed for dinner) down to the dining room for a “teishoku” (set meal) and then back to your bedroom. Futons on the tatami mat!! Amazing way to end the day from our hard ride and also end our Japanese trip.

Day 80: Green Stay Lake Toya Camp Ground – Kyogoku Three U Parking Ground (45 km)

Wednesday 21st June 2023

We were all tucked up at 8.30 last night and then all hell broke loose at 9 pm, fireworks from Toya Onsen Town, just down the road. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see them where we were, so we just waited for 30 minutes, until they were over and went back to sleep. We both couldn’t get over how loud they were!

We had a lovely ride around Lake Toya, very beautiful. Then headed towards Mt Yotei, which still had a small amount of snow on it. We had a climb of 600 metres, this time no tunnel!! Once we got to the top, we had a gorgeous ride through the farmland and arrived at Rustusu for lunch then onto Kyogoku and our campsite.

We were next door to an Onsen and Lawsons. We were set for showers (hot) and drinks. Living it up before we get to Sapporo.

Day 79: Rebungekaihin Park Camp Ground – Green Stay Lake Toya Camp Gound (29 km)

Tuesday 20th June 2023

Today’s ride was more interesting along the coastline and then we headed inland.

We had a choice of a climb of 400 metres on small roads or ride through a tunnel 2.1 km long. Thankfully this tunnel had a wide footpath so, tunnel it was! Prue was very happy.

It was a lovely campsite overlooking Lake Toya and there was only one other camper.

We had “okonomiyaki” for dinner with a Classic Sapporo Beer only sold in Hokkaido. Peter was happy.

Good day today with two happy cyclists!!

Day 78: Auto Resort Yakumo – Rebungekaihin Park Camp Ground (69 km)

Monday 19th June 2023

Today’s ride was along a very straight road running parallel to the coast and with headwinds. We both commented on how boring the road was.

We had a brief stop, for Peter to fix his brake pads that were rubbing on the frame. Once rectified we set off again.

We did have a few interesting sites along the way.

After 50 kms we turned inland and ‘up’ to go around the point and then had a lovely, long downhill into camp.

We were the only ones there at this brand-new camp ground. But just one small complaint is that they only had cold showers, no hot water. We just wonder why they have built this magnificent complex with 10 showers for both women and men but only cold water.

Day 77: Yushokuhirobaniyama Auto Camp Ground – Auto Resort Yakumo (59 km)

Sunday 18th June 2023

Yay, we woke to a dry tent and surprisingly we both had a good night sleep. The sun was out but still very windy.

It was lovely to be on Hokkaido Island. It is very green, luscious vegetation and great mountains in the background.

We came across a car accident and the road was closed. Police were turning the traffic around but for us that wasn’t an option. So, thanks to the “MapOut App” we got around the incident down a small overgrown track, which under normal conditions we would not even contemplate of riding it and would be cursing MapOut!! We found out later that the accident involved a truck and a bus, killing 5 people.

We arrived at our ‘Resort’ which had barriers out the front. We scooted around the side of then and headed in. Halfway in, we had a man chasing us and we caught up with him at reception. We were a bit worried, but he turned out to be the friendliest man and helped us check in.

Day 76: Cape Oma – Yushokuhirobaniyama Auto Camp Ground (25 km)

Saturday 17th June 2023

We met two Japanese bike tourers, both circumnavigating Japan. One was a young 23 year old and a very fit 73 year old.

Peter spent the morning installing new brake pads and tuning Prue’s gear cluster.

It was still blowing a gale so we went to the ferry terminal early to get out of the wind! Prue was worried about the wind and having a rough crossing but surprisingly it wasn’t too bad.

We had 20m km to ride from Hakodate to our campsite – one of our worst. This campsite had two goats – alive but we think one was blind. The only good thing it was next door to an onsen.

Day 75: Hayakake Lakeside Hill Camp Ground – Cape Oma (56 km)

Friday 16th June 2023

Rain over night and morning so straight to the shelter shed for cover and to dry out!

The rain eventually stopped and we got most things relatively dry so we headed across the hills to the Eastern side of Shimokita Peninsula.

The day was a very average riding day – overcast and windy (head windy!!!). Thankfully we had no more rain.

The number of landslides along the coastline are numerous. The extent of concrete reinforcement on the side of the hills to prevent slips is amazing. but detracts from the natural beauty of the hillside. For the Japanese it is a necessity to keep the roads open and the safety of houses and whole villages from slips.

We arrived at Cape Oma, the northernmost point of Honshu Island, Japan’s main island. It was blowing a gale so we did a quick photo shoot with the tuna monument. Oma tuna is the best and most expensive tuna in Japan.

Our campsite was just behind the shops, with an enclosed kitchen. First enclosed kitchen we have seen in Japan. And this campsite was free.

We were planning to have tuna (Pacific Bluefin Tuna) at one of the restaurants nearby but we left it too late and they had all closed. So a walk to the convenience store was the next option!! Bugger.

Day 74: Yogoshiyama Auto Camp Ground – Hayakake Lakeside Hill Camp Ground (83 km)

Thursday 15th June 2023

We left later than planned due to rain but got away by 9am. It was the first time we felt like we were riding in the countryside , not just through rice paddies and towns. It was a pretty ride through heavily dense bush.

We had a long day so we were quite focussed on covering distance.

The highlight of the day was finding a bus shelter for lunch, as there was no where else to stop.

We tried to avoid the busy roads but again Map Out put us in some interesting spots??!! So due to the high kilometers to ride we gave up on the Map Out App as we didn’t want to do an extra 20 km on top of our 83 km!!

We arrived at the camp ground and we were pleasantly surprised. It was the cleanest campsite- best kept gardens, amenities were spotless and it even had a gorilla!!

Day 73: Aomori – Yogoshiyama Auto Camp Ground (49 km)

Wednesday 14th June 2023

We had a late start as we only had 28 km to ride………but something happened as the end total was 49 km??

This time it was due to road works. We couldn’t take the planned route and was told to turn around by the flagman.

We did find some interesting sculptures? They are carved out of wood. We can’t find any information about them.

Tuesday 13th June 2023

We had a rest day and it was lovely. The Hotel we stayed at was called the Art Hotel so it had some amazing art installation and lights.

The entrance was very spectacular.

Day 71: Tsugaruchiyumura Camp Ground – Aomari (53 km)

Monday 12th June 2023

We had a pleasant ride through the apple orchards. The growers were attending their trees – pruning to improve production. Must say the apples are all very large and range in price from 200 – 500 yen each. ($2.12 – $5.29)

Then we came across Kusumike Jutaku An Old House in beautiful condition.

We rode into Aomori across the Aomori Bay Bridge to our Hotel. Two nights – what a treat!

Day 70: Okazaki Camp Ground – Tsugaruchiyumura Auto Camp Ground (57 km)

Sunday 11th June 2023

Another night with not a lot of sleep. The fishing boats started at 2am and then just when we got to back to sleep the town music* started at 5am!. We swear we were under the loudspeaker it was so loud. This was the earliest morning chime we had heard. Normally they play from 6am – 8am.

*This music is known as the ‘5pm chime’, but is usually played twice or even three times a day depending on what village, town or city you are in. It is officially known as the ‘Municipal Disaster Management Radio Communication Network’. It warns residents in case of emergency, or just public announcements.

We had a head wind all day and we both thought it was a long day in the ‘saddle’.

We did go through Fukaura, which has a very strong fishing industry. We popped in to the local fish market – an amazing collection of fish and other things!

Our camp site tonight is next to Tsugaru Earth Village, where there are many apple orchards. Very pretty setting.

Forgot to say we had an earthquake tonight. We were notified on the phone with an alert coming through then, yes you guessed it, we had the public announcement, through the loud speakers, warning us of the earthquake. We were having dinner at the time and felt a slight sidewards shake. Noone else in the camp ground were taking any notice or looked concern so we just carried on with dinner.

Day 69: Goshonodai Auto Camp Ground – Okazaki Camp Ground (49 km)

Saturday 10th June 2023

It rained all night and we woke to an overcast morning. We were sad to leave this camp site as it had everything we needed – onsen, WiFi, family restaurant, good kitchen facilities(Japanese style), good bathroom facilities and a washing machine with dryer. We are very simple folk!!

We had a lovely ride and the sun did come out in the afternoon. Oh what a difference the sun makes!!

We rode along the coastline and saw some beautiful bays and rock formations. This was a rare sight as most beaches are very dirty covered with washed up rubbish, drift wood, fishing lines etc

Just one little hiccough Prue nearly ‘killed’ her husband. She did a sharp u-turn in front of Peter, nearly taking him out. Prue wanted to take a photo of the Jizu, they had just past. Prue will now always ride behind Peter!

We set up camp overlooking the sea. It was closed but there were toilets are running water.

We watched the most beautiful sunset with a little treat – wine and nibbles. There was a convenience store nearby which Peter made a dash to, to get supplies. Unfortunately our photos did not do the sunset justice as it was one of the most beautiful sunsets we had seen – or maybe it was the wine we consumed!!

Day 67 & 68: Goshonodai Auto Camp Ground (Rest Days)

Thursday 8th and Friday 9h June 2023

We did try the onsen’s rice crackers. When we use Google translator some of the translations are very descriptive and very funny. We couldn’t resist buying these and they were delicious.

Not so, was the appetiser at the restaurant.

Day 66: Minamioike Park Camp Ground – Goshonodai Auto Camp Ground (51 km)

Wednesday 7th June 2023

What a night. We thought we had the camp site of the trip??!! Well, we had a pump running all night, interspersed with a scare gun going off every 15 minutes and traffic from the highway nearby. That is not all! The rooster started at 3am joined in by the “gobble” of the turkeys and a cuckoo bird. It was a very musical start to the morning!

Again the weather was threatening so we hurriedly packed up before the rain and headed to Noshiro to the library where we could take refuge.

After a couple of hours , all clear, so we set off to find the supermarket to get stores. The supermarkets in Japan have a great array of ‘ready to go’ meals. They normally have a place for you to eat them and provide a microwave so that you can reheat the meals. They also provide hot water if you want to cook your instant noodles and hot or cold green tea to drink. It was lunch time so we had katsudon (pork cutlet on rice) and hot green tea.

We were impressed with the auto camp. We put our tent up amongst the pine trees overlooking the ocean. It also had an onsen next door. Prue couldn’t get there fast enough – being out for 5 days without a shower and only sponges…..

Day 65: Omoriyama Camp Ground – Minaminoike Park Camp Ground (51 km)

Tuesday 6th June 2023

Sun out, tale wind just a lovely cycling day up the coast through Akita to our camp site.

Our camp site was on reclaimed land. The Hachirogata Lagoon reclamation began in 1957 and took 20 years for the Ogata Village to be established. The main purpose was for food production.

Day 64: Yurihonjo – Omoriyama Camp Ground (38 km)

Monday 5th June 2023

We were up early as we were in a closed camp ground with locked gates – best not to be found!

So, we had breakfast beside the river with public toilets (long drops) near by. The nicest long drop toilet Prue has ever used. It had a proper toilet, with a heated seat and pink toilet paper!

After breakfast the normal morning gomi (rubbish) run to Lawsons, or whichever convenience store is closest and then to the supermarket to get stores.

We were on the footpath beside Highway 7 to begin with then found the quiet roads running parallel to the highway.

Other interesting sights for the day.

Found the steepest hill up to our campsite. Even Peter was impressed with Prue getting to the top without getting off and came up to give her a congratulatory handshake!

This one was open, had running water, long drops(not as nice as the public one Prue used this morning) and even had a shower! (hose with shower head attached to it). 5 star camp site!

Peter was doing the usual oil of chain when he noticed on Prue’s bike the gear cable to the rear cassette had broken/frayed wire strands due to being overloaded. It was about to fail. How lucky we were Peter found it and we were in a location to be able to repair it and more importantly Peter could repair it.

Day 63: Nishihama Camp Ground – Yurihonjo (67 km)

Sunday 4th June 2023

Forecast for more rain and gales.

We took shelter in the shelter at the camp site, then decided to ride before the next shower. We meant the next downpour!

We were lucky that we were close to a Lawsons (convenience store) when the heavens opened. The staff felt very sorry for us so they very kindly let us stay (hour and a half!) and wait until the storm passed.

Once the worst was over we thought it was safe to venture out.

The winds were still very strong but we loved it as it was a tale wind – our first for the trip? We loved it. We scooted into town our found our camp site …………all shut up!

We could sneak in around the side of the gate, so we checked the place out. Everything was closed – no toilets and no running water but it was sheltered from the wind. So we decided to camp there anyway. We went back to the public toilets to get water and we were set to camp ‘illegally’?

Little did we realise we had a wind generator next door and it wasn’t until we were in our tent did we realise how much noise it generated. It sounded like we were camping beside a major highway with a constant flow of traffic.

Day 62: Tsuruoka – Nishihama Camp Ground (50 km)

Saturday 3rd June 2023

We woke to a major rain storm. The forecast was for showers until 10am and then clearing. This was no shower so we both had our fingers crossed that the forecast was right and the rain is clearing by 10am.

We were safe, so we left the Hotel at 10 and headed for Ken Domons Museum of Photography. He was a famous Japanese photographer representing Japan in the 20th Century. It is first museum in Japan dedicated to photography. Also the museum was designed by Yoshio Taniguchi, a famous architect in Japan.

After the museum we made a beeline to our campsite as the weather still looked ominous. It was a lovely campsite amongst the pine trees near the beach. So we got settled before the rain.

Day 61: Tsuruoka – Shona Hotel Suiden Terrase (Rest Day)

Friday 2nd June 2023

*The rice comes from Dewayahei Company in Tsuruoka. We met the owner Hiroshi Itagaki, who is a character. So, rice was compulsory for dinner.

Day 60: Goishi Beach Camp Ground – Tsuruoka (49 km)

Thursday 1st June 2023

A gorgeous cycling day – sun out and very little wind. Just the normal road blocks!!

And on the way we came across the big “kokeshi doll”, the big radish, a policeman, a real police car and a little old lady tending to her garden. We only see elderly people in their fields and gardens, very rarely the young.

We were in a bit of a quandary as the weather forecast was for rain tomorrow, starting at 4 am and raining all day. Oh, what to do? So, we did decide to book into accommodation for 2 nights. We left it too late to book, so we found ourselves in a very modern Hotel $$$$ amongst the rice paddies. You just can’t get away from them!

Day 59: Sekizawa Forest Park – Goishi Beach Camp Ground (80 km)

Wednesday 31st May 2023

It was the best campsite – sleeping on the grass felt like sleeping on the softest mattress!!

Today we didn’t have a specific plan where were would camp tonight but decided to ride through Murakami and then decide what we wanted to do after lunch.

To get there we rode through more rice paddies!!

Murakami is famous for its salmon fishing – everywhere you looked you could see the salmon drying out in the open. Also, it was an old castle town so it has a few old samurai and merchant houses that were dotted along a very picturesque main street.

We went shopping and we somehow did a big shop, so big we couldn’t fit all our stores in the panniers – so we carried lunch in a bag on the back of the bike!! We thought we should have lunch straight away.

After lunch we started to head inland and because we felt good we thought we could make it to Goishi Beach.

The last 20 km were a bit ordinary – on a busy road with lots of tunnels with no footpath causing us a little grief but the traffic gave us plenty of space and were very patient.

We got to Goishi Beach and we were greeted by the Manager, Koto-san, who advised us the camp site was closed and does not open until July. He kindly let us stay the night, told us to camp behind a run down building. He turned the water on and asked us to go to Lawsons (1 km down the track) to use their bathroom facilities or go to the onsen.

Whilst putting up the tent, Kato-san came back with his wife, Yumiko, who had cooked some local sweets and gave them to us.

Once the tent was up Peter went to Lawsons and Prue went to the onsen. We both returned back to camp in time to watch the sunset.

Day 58: Niigata – Sekizawa Forest Park (50 km)

Tuesday 30th May 2023

It took us awhile to get out of Niigata, winding our way through the back streets, then the industrial area and then we found the rice paddies. It was an easy ride, along the quiet roads following the main road E7.

Peter had us rock climbing for our lunch spot – very happily perched on the brick wall overlooking the paddy fields.

After lunch we turned towards the mountains and found our campsite. It was a beautiful setting amongst the forest. We were a little worried with all the bear signs but due to our experience in Canada with felt comfortable.

As we were erecting the tent a local came up to us to see if we had food and if we wanted to have a bath at his house. Very sweet of him.

Day 56 & 57: Niigata (Rest Days)

Sunday 28th and Monday 29th May 2023

Raining both days – it was just lovely to have an apartment, cook our own meals, do the washing and even watch a movie on netflix.

We did venture out and did some sake tasting and a stroll around town.

Day 55: Washima Auto Camp Field – Niigata (65 km)

Saturday 27th May 2023

We woke to a dry clear day. Leaving the campground we met two other cyclists, Caroline and Bart, from The Netherlands and they camped!! We were unbelievably impressed. They were heading South to Kyoto.

It was a day of rice paddies after rice paddies after rice paddies. No wonder Niigata is famous for their rice and sake.

We did have some light entertainment on the way when we stopped at a newly opened 7-eleven store.

We had a good ride into Niigata – perfect touring day with the sun shining, no wind and very little climbing.

We arrived early in Niigata, too early to check-in* to our apartment so Peter suggested a tour down the long undercovered arcades that each city in Japan seems to have.

• Check-in time in Japan is usually 3pm and they will not budge on that time.

Prue couldn’t help herself but she found an antique store and came out with ……..

We haven’t mentioned the flowers. Most houses have a pot or pots of spring flowers outside their front door. Very few have gardens.

We found our accommodation, an apartment in a quiet suburb of Niigata. Perfect for a 3 night stay especially when it is raining on both days.

Day 54: Ogata Camp Ground – Washima Auto Camp Field (68 km)

Friday 26th May 2023

So, we reverted back to Google Maps and found a quiet bituminized road!!

It was trying hard to rain all day and it wasn’t until the last 30 minutes did it really start to rain. Thankfully we didn’t have far to go to reach our destination. Yes, on top of a very big hill with a very steep road to get there.

We arrived saturated and looked at the camp sites and the campers in the rain then looked at the bungalows – it was unanimous, bungalow it was!

The bungalow was 5 tatami mat size? It had a lavatory with the works and of course “toilet” slippers, a sink, a fridge and a collapsable table. What more do you need? But we were happy, dry and we had a lovely view.

Day 53: Suzawa Seaside Park – Ogata Camp Ground (62 km)

Thursday 25th May 2023

The night was a little noisy with trucks but we did mange to get some sleep.

We planned to ride in the morning to Joetsu. Get there by lunch and then work on our blog before riding to our camp site which was only 12 km from Joetsu.

We rode in on the ‘Kubiki Bicycle and Walker Road’ Trail, which was mainly above the road with lovely views and our own tunnels – not a car to be seen.

Aling the way, we came across a shrine with a typical thatched roof you find in deep snow country. In Shirakawa-go (Japanese Alps south of Kanazawa) has traditional thatched roof houses. We were lucky to see one

had lunch break was in a park opposite Lea Surf shop. Prue had a look at the coast and wasn’t impressed with the surf. She left Peter in the park and when she returned Peter was surrounded by kindergarten children playing with the water feature in the park.

We blogged in the Muji store. We both loved that store. Then cycled out to our camp site. Very peaceful and quiet and watched the sunset over the Japan Sea.

Day 52: Hamakura camp Ground – Suzawa Seaside Park (74 km)

Wednesday 24th May 2023

Early start to the morning due to the crows. Prue thought they were attacking the gomi (rubbish), so she made Peter get up. Thankfully the gomi was still intact and not strewn all over the camp site. Since we were both awake we decided to get up. Peter did a few jobbies on the bike and we got away by 8 am.

The wind had died down, the sun was out and we were on a bicycle path. ‘Toyama Coastal Cycling Route’ , that goes from Hima to Toyama. It took us past the new wind farm being constructed out in the Japan Sea. There are going to be 26 wind generators placed out in the ocean. The description of how they were being erected was very informative.

We met Martin on our way. He is a Canadian from Quebec who has been living in Japan for 29 years. Prue wanted to ask him a few questions. First of all about the cement barriers. Martin said, “The Japan Sea is very hungry.” Causing erosion at a very fast rate. Then he added Japan is a “wanted country”???

The bike track finished an we found ourselves on a busy road – only one road along the coastline. We were amongst the trucks, both fighting for space along the covered roads and in the tunnels.

Or camp site tonight was an auto camp site – very expensive but it did have grass to put our tent on and we had power (in the kitchen). No shower though, so off to the onsen, followed by ramen at the local restaurant.

Day 51: Kamiwada Ryokuchi Camp Ground – Hamakura Camp Ground (62 km)

Tuesday 23rd May 2023

It rained all night but fortunately it stopped by the time we got up.

When we were moving out, the ‘army’ were moving in. That is, the army of maintenance men (12), complete with an excavator and motorised roller to do some major works??! We did get the giggles as they ran to their positions, some with shovels, and they knew exactly what to do.

We went to see the Zuiryu-ji Temple at Takaoka. You wonder how many temples can one see in three months travelling in Japan but each temple is unique and we both commented, that this one was well worth seeing. We have just a “few” photos of the temple??!!

Then we went off to see one of the three big buddhas in Japan. The other two Great Buddhas are in Nara and Kamakura. This one was a little disappointing but Prue was determined for Peter to see a big Buddha.

Then the search was on for a grocery store – you wouldn’t think it would be that hard but it was! We went round in circles finding the local grocery stores that didn’t have anything that Peter would remotely enjoy so and hour later we found a “proper” supermarket.

Once we had lunch, and we got stores for the night we headed off to our campsite along the foreshore. Ahead of us was this huge suspension bridge and Peter asked, “How we are going to cross that bridge?” Prue had the Mapout app on and replied, “I am following Mapout, and it takes us across the bridge.” So we kept pedalling. Prue saw a sign to an elevator, so she mentioned to Peter that we go up an elevator. Peter didn’t believe Prue, but when we rode up to the elevator he was impressed. Lesson for Peter; never doubt your wife!!

The elevator took us up to a under carriage walkway which was enclosed with glass between the two major suspension peers. Amazing!

We caught up with the blue line (bicycle blue line) which took us to our campsite next to the ocean. It was blowing a gale so we erected the tarps to form a shelter from the wind. Very snug. (The red wine helped!)

Day 50: Kanazwa – Kamiwada Ryokuchi Camp Ground (60 km)

Monday 22nd May 2023

On the way out of Kanazawa we popped into the Omni Michi market. It had plenty of fish stalls where you can select you raw fish and eat it at the stall. We didn’t feel like raw fish for breakfast so we passed on that experience! You could even get a craft beer.

We had a couple of climbs to get out of Kanazawa and then got on this amazing bike trail, which took us through a large valley with large industries and rice paddies scattered amongst them. We then turned towards the hills and came to a little oasis and not far from there was our campsite next to the river. It was lovely.

We got there just in time as it just started to rain. We quickly put the tent up and took shelter under the rotunda, which was our life saviour.

Day 49: Kanazawa (Rest Day)

Sunday 21at May 2023

Our sight seeing day consisted of Kanazawa Castle Park. The castle was originally built in 1580 and known as the ‘castle of a thousand tatami’. It was destroyed by fire in 1881.

Kenrokuen was lovely. One of Prue’s favourite places in Japan.

Then we came across an Imperial residence which we went in to see and an extra bonus was a magnificent doll collection was on display. Unfortunately you were not allowed to take photos.

Day 48: Ayukawawnchi Camp Ground – Kanazawa (92 km)

Saturday 20th May 2023

Today was a loooong day.

We had a head wind all day but despite the head wind we enjoyed the morning ride, heading towards the coast.

Once we reached to coast we persevered with the winds as we were on a bike trail.

But the winds got the better of us so we decided to head inland and ride the busy roads, with less wind.

After a long day and being buffeted by the wind we turned up to our Hotel to be greeted by dinosaurs!

The Hotel’s name was ‘Henn na Hotel’ and in Japanese ‘strange/odd’ is ‘Hen’, hence the name of the Hotel. We had a sense of humour failure when there was a huge queue to check in and it took people twice the time to check in as everyone was taking photos etc. We were just tired and wanted to get to our room.

After our big day a pizza was in order and we were lucky to find ‘The Cottage’, an Italian restaurant run by a Japanese lady and her Irish husband. Peter loved it and got very excited about his future travels to Ireland.

Day 47: Chizen Roadside Station – Ayukawaenchi Camp Ground (28 km)

Friday 19th May 2023

We had a restful and peaceful night – no disturbances except from the rain – all night! Thankfully it had stopped by the time we got up so we were able to move under shelter before the next shower.

While Peter was taking the tarp off the bikes he was bitten by a ‘mukade’ a Japanese centipede. They are one of the worst feared insects in Japan. (Even my friends spoke about them.) The sting is quite painful and can last for a few days. Some people have an allergic reaction to them. Thankfully Peter only had a mild reaction and lives to tell another tale!

The rain had set in for the morning, so we packed up and went to the library which had free WiFi and it came with a sweet. The Japanese love giving you sweets – all singularly wrapped from a box. These sweets are usually given as a souvenir from a staff member who have gone somewhere and bought back a souvenir (omiyage) for their colleagues. Same as for families. It is always food or a sweet of some kind.

We thought the rain had stopped so we packed up – but false alarm so back to the library we went! We eventually got away at 2.30pm. It was drizzling slightly but an hour later the sun was out. It was 28 km of riding along the coastline through tunnels, waterfalls on the right and dramatic rock formations on the left. It was a very pretty ride.

And of course the rice paddy and fishing boats…..

We arrived at our campsite and this time we rode down a hill to the foreshore. It was the first campsite we went down hill!! And we were greeted by the friendliest owner who gave us a free beer. So we enjoyed our predinner drink watching the sunset.

Day 46: Biwako Camp Ground – Chizen Roadside Station (62 km)

Thursday 18th May 2023

It was quite a warm day and we had 3 climbs totaling 871m. After our first climb we relooked at the route as we needed stores, so we changed our route to go through Tsuruga and to our pleasant surprise it was all down hill and flat to where we were planning to camp. We were both chuffed!

Also, we both liked the feel of Tsuruga and it had the longest covered footpath we had ever seen – even longer than Kyoto’s.

We rode along the coast and found a park where we could have lunch. We saw a lot of derelict buildings along the way and even the park was neglected. We are not sure if it was to due to Covid or poor economical times.

We arrived at Chizern Roadside Station where we were planning to camp the night, but were told by the motorists, that you can only camp in your vehicles. So we searched for an area where we could camp and found a perfect spot hidden away behind the bushes and the breakwater wall. Below are some local delicacies from the Roadside shop.

The best part was it was close to the onsen, so once the tent was up Prue hot footed it to the Echizen onsen open-air bath, Isabari. Prue learnt from the ladies at the onsen that the name of the Onsen was named after the fire (isabari) that was lit by the fishermen on their boats to catch the fish at night in the old days. Now they use spot lights and are catching squid. (This area is also famous for crabs.) The onsen had an outside bath overlooking the Japan Sea and you could see the fishing boats with their bright lights. It was very enjoyable.

Day 45 : Omi Maiko Nakahama Beach Camp Ground – Biwako Camp Ground (42 km)

Wednesday 17th May 2023

Today was a glorious touring day – perfect weather, no wind and beautiful scenery.

Most of the ride took us along the shore of the lake but we did have a minor detour to get stores.

We had a new experience today – lunch in the supermarket. Most supermarkets have seating where you can eat the food (ready to eat) you have purchased. They provide a microwave to heat up your meal if required and water or tea to drink.

We found ourselves in a campsite amongst the trees, above the lake and yes it was another climb to the camp site but we can’t complain today as we only rode a short distance.

Day 44: Kyoto – Omi Maiko Nakahama Beach Camp Ground (50 km)

Tuesday 16th May 2023

We left about 10.30 after Peter lubed the chains on the bikes.

Considering we only had a short distance to ride today it felt like a very long day. Mapout led us through the small streets again which we just loved and then up a very steep path which we didn’t love very much at all. We think the ‘normal’ road would have been better; not so steep.

We had lunch at Otis in the Park. Today’s lunch was ‘Zaru* Soba’, a traditional chilled noodle dish, the noodles made from buckwheat flour and served with a dipping sauce called tsuyu. It also came with wasabi, spring onions and seaweed. *Zaru, means a strainer in Japanese. The dish gots its name as the noodles were served on a bamboo strainer.

We got to Lake Biwa – the largest inland lake in Japan. We had a lovely ride along the edge of the Lake and found our campsite. It was very basic but lovely sight looking over Lake Biwa.

Day 40 – 43: Kyoto (Rest Days – more?!)

Saturday 13th May – Tuesday 16th may 2023

Breakfast was included in our Hotel price. We are beginning to enjoy the Japanese style breakfast.

We rode out to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove and visited Tenryu-ji Temple and gardens. On our way through the back streets we came across some lovely old houses. We love the gates, the entrance to the courtyard and then to the houses.

Then it started to lightly rain but we still wanted to go to the Kinkaku-ji Temple. So off we went another 5 km down the road. It really is truly breathtaking – even in the rain! Tip: – go when it is raining as there is no crowd!

We went to the Pontocho Kamogawa Odori. It dates back to 1872. The performance is divided into two parts. The first half is a play and the second half is the traditional dance of the geisha and maiko with full traditional orchestra. We loved it but unfortunately we couldn’t take any photos – only of the theatre ceiling! See below.

Prue has gone made on Rabbit Bagels, especially strawberry and cream in matcha and white chocolate bagel.

There was the Aoi Festival on while were here but unfortunately they cancelled it due to rain. Next time

Day 39: Kobe – Kyoto (85 km)

Friday 12th May 2023

We had a long ride today but we knew it was going to be flat so we felt quite comfortable that it would be achievable. Which it was and we arrived around 5pm. As usual a few barriers on the way but we did come across some ‘bike user’ friendly ones!

We settled into our Hotel and it was in the perfect location to have a night stroll though Ponto-cho and Gion District. This are is famous for Its traditional architecture, restaurants, hostess bars, bars, clubs and cafes. Just so attractive.

Day 32 – 38: Kobe

Friday 5th May 2023 – Thursday 11th May 2023

May 5th – Happy Children’s Day It is to celebrate the health and happiness of children. This is the final celebration of Golden Week. Everywhere In Japan you will see the Koinobori (carp flags) flying to celebrate the day.

While the nation was celebrating Children’s Day we were celebrating to be with our friends in Kobe. Prue had not seen them for over thirty years so it was so lovely catch up

We went to Chihiro’s Mother’s house on Awaji Island for dinner and they decided to dress Prue up in a Kimono. The kimono was magnificent – I have never seen anything so beautiful.

And we were treated to the most delicious sashimi. Fresh from the local fish market. With it, we had rice with fresh peas (in season) and clear soup with clams. What an amazing dining experience.

We had a lovely day with Hiroko. Hiroko, another friend of Prue’s. Hiroko took us to Sorakuen garden in Kobe. A beautiful garden in the heart of Kobe – it is like a little oasis. It just amazes us that you do not have to travel far in Japan to find beauty.

We also caught up with Emi, who Prue stayed with as a homestay (those many years ago!). We had such a fun day going out to lunch, having to grind our own sesame seeds for our dipping sauce for our pork katsu and then went to a coffee house with the most delicious dessert. Sorry, we forgot to take a photo as we couldn’t wait to eat it!!

Poor Chihiro and Yuki didn’t think we would ever leave as we were having too much fun in Kobe. Our last ‘hoorah’ was at a chinese restaurant, Shinsenkaku followed by a visit to the Ikuta Shrine. The popularity of this shrine in Kobe is its association with the goddess of making connections. It is known for love and relationships.

Day 31: Zentsuji – Takamatsu – Ferry – Kobe (31 km)

Today is Greenery Day – a day to appreciate nature and be grateful of its blessings.

We were on the road by 7am – new record! Considering we were camping stealthily we had a good nights sleep. We think it is to do with Japan being such a safe country!

We had an easy ride into Takamatsu and on the way way we came across ‘Takamatsu Bonsai no Sato’. It is hub for promoting Japan’s top bonsai producing area. (80% of the domestic market is grown in this area.)

Then we went to see the Ritsurin Garden. It was built in the Edo period (1603-1867). It consists of 13 ponds and 13 landscaped hills intermingled with large rock formations. It was completed in 1745 as a private strolling garden and opened to the public in 1875. The tea houses and pine trees are the features of this garden.

The pine trees are over 300 years old and their branches are curved like a bonsai.

The Koi carp fish is a national symbol in Japan and very much loved. The koi fish stands for good luck, prosperity, vitality and longevity. The Chinese legend of the carp swimming up the waterfall, says that, “They are so strong that they can swim upstream and even to the top of a waterfall. After overcoming many challenges and difficulties the koi fish that reach the top of the waterfall will turn into a powerful dragon.”

After the gardens we caught the ferry from Takamatsu to Kobe. As it was during Golden Week , the ferry was very busy so we sat next to this lovely man who gave us an ice cream. Prue’s friends, Chihiro and Yuki were there at the terminal waiting for us,

Day 30: Niihama Campground – Zentsuji (78 km)

Wednesday 3rd May 2023

Today is Constitution Memorial Day. The current constitution of Japan came into force on May 3rd 1947. It is the official start of Golden Week. Golden Week is Japan longest stretch of National Holidays starting from Saturday 29th April (Emperor’s Birthday) until Sunday May 7th. If travelling to Japan I would avoid this time as everyone in Japan is on the move!!

We rode through the small streets and came across many shrines/temples so we thought we were on the pilgrimage route, then lo and behold we meet Fleming from Denmark who was doing the Shikoku Pilgrimage. He was up to his 67th temple and was on his 45th day….And he felt very enlightened!

After leaving Fleming we came across Zenstuji Temple No 75. It is the first Shingon (one of the major schools of Buddhism) temple in Japan. The main hall houses the Buddha of medicine and healing. Also, we saw our pagoda there.

We knew we had a long day but little did we realise that the camp ground we were going to stay at was a day camp (picnic ground) only!! We were told bluntly we could not camp there. So we had to do an extra 19 km to find a place to camp. We found a reserve beside the river and after dark set up a wild camp for the night.

Day 29: Sakuraikaihinfureaihiro* (Sakurai) Campground – Niihamashishiminnonmori* (Niihama) Campground (49 km)

*We love the names of the campgrounds!!

Tuesday 2nd May 2023

The sun was out and very little wind compared to yesterday. The plan was to ride in the morning and then go to Starbucks/McDonalds to use their WiFi for a couple of hours before we ride to our camp site.

We had a lovely mornings ride around the paddy fields. We saw a few farmers planting their rice. Around this region, is an extensive area of paddy fields.

We passed a primary school and in their garage had 3 buses, all decked out to look like cartoon characters. The children ride to school on these buses – what fun!!

Another shrine on the way.

Day 28: Omishima Island – Imabari – Saijo Campground (67 km)

Monday 1st May 2023

We said goodbye to Greg and attended our first job of the day to get rid of the gomi. So off to Lawsons.

We went to Oyamazumi Jinja. It was one of the most important shrines for samurai and has a large collection of samurai weaponry and Martial arts.

We then joined the Shimanami Kaido heading towards Imabari, again following the blue line.

We rode to Tattara Bridge, then crossed:-

Omishima Bridge

Hakata-Oshima Bridge

Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge (4,105m)

We had lunch overlooking Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge, in a small fishing village.

After our tour of the Castle we headed to our camp site.

Day 27: Kure – Omishima Island (Utena Campground) (50 km)

Sunday 30th April 2023

We set off from Kure in dry conditions (yippee!!). Today we are crossing 5 bridges and catching one ferry to join up with the Shimanami Kaido Cycling Path.

Bridge 1. Akinada Bridge:- Honshu Island to Shimo-kamagari Island*

Bridge 2. Kamagari Bridge:- Shimo-kamagari Island to Kami-kamagari Island

Bridge 3. Toyoshima Ohashi Bridge:- Kami-kamagari Island to Toyoshima

Bridge 4. Toyohamao Bridge:- Toyoshima to Osaki-Shimozima Island

‘

Bridge 5. Heira Bridge/Nakanoseto Bridge/Okamura Bridge: – Osaki-Shimozima Island to Okamura Island

We had lunch on the way at the small fishing harbour where we got lucky and found a shelter shed for a small ferry terminal with toilets with heated seats. It got us out of the wind as well.

Then we caught the ferry from Okamura to Munakata. This fery terminal had a beautiful arrangement of flowers.

This route is a popular cycling route and they make it very easy for you as all you have to do is follow the blue line!! We didn’t get lost today!

From Munakata we rode 10km to the campground. The campground was closed and this time it was definitely closed as there was no water and the toilet block was locked. Thankfully there was a Lawsons 2kms down the road where we could get water.

There were two other campers there, one Japanese man and Greg from Newcastle. Greg, has been bike touring for over 20 years and had been travelling on his own for 2 weeks in Japan, so he welcomed us like long lost friends. We had a lovely night overlooking the Seto Sea.

• Shimo-kamagari Island had a very beautiful town, Sannose, the old port town which was famous for being an important stopover point for foreign diplomats and had a museum for porcelain and beautiful gardens.

Day 26: Toon – Matsuyama – Ferry Crossing – Kure (36 km)

Saturday 29th April 2023

We got up early as we knew the rain was coming – forecast to start raining at 10 am. We wanted to get to Matsuyama Port before the rain. Well the rain arrived at 8am, so we had a wet ride to Matsuyama Port where we were catching the ferry to Kure.

We met the two Mikes and Scott at the ferry terminal, all from Western Australia. They were heading to Hiroshima.

We arrived at lunch time at Kure, and since we could not check in to our guest house until 4 pm we visited the Kure Maritime Museum, also known as the Yamato Museum. In 1903 the Kure Naval Dockyard was established, where the technology of shipbuilding and steel making grew over the years to become the best Naval Port in the Far East and the largest arsenal town in Japan. The most famous battleship built there was the Yamato – one of two heaviest and most powerfully armed battleships ever constructed.

When we left the museum is was raining quite heavily, so we were soaking wet by the time we arrived at our guest house.It was a 9 km ride in the rain! We were greeted by Marion armed with towels to dry us, our bikes and our bags. Then made us tea with a sweet, totally welcoming

We showered, washed, shopped and had Hiroshima okonomiyaki for dinner. It was still raining when we went to bed so we hoped by the morning it would have stopped..

Day 25: Uchiko – Toon (Shigenobugawakasuminori Park) (55 km)

Friday 28th April 2023

We said our goodbyes to Will and Tami and of course we had to have the photo shoot of Will and Tami outside their house and us just up from their house on the corner.

They rode with us to the Michi-no-ekii in Uchiko and on the way we stopped at Uchiko-za. It is a theatre for traditional puppetry and Japanese classical drama (Kabuki).

We had a gradual climb out of Uchiko – harder than what we thought. Along the way we saw many Jizus.

*The Pilgrim:-

• Sedge Hat – wears the Sanskrit character of “bonji” which is said to represent Kukai (the Buddhist monk who started the pilgrimage)
• White Jacket – represents purity, innocence and equality of all before Buddha.
• Stole – worn around the neck, which symbolises the full Buddhist robe and shows devotion.
• Staff – the embodiment of Kukai, guiding you through the journey.
• White bag – useful for carrying things.

After a long day, camped beside the river which Will recommended.

Day 24: Beppu – Ferry Crossing – Yawatahama- Uchiko (35 km)

Thursday 27th April 2023

We said our goodbyes to Michi and went to the ferry terminal. We caught the ferry from Beppu to Yawatahama, Shikoku Island, where we met 5 other tourers – 2 from UK and 3 from Spain. It is so interesting to meet other tourers and discuss routes, experiences and bikes!!

After leaving Yawatahama, we met a lovely man on his bike. He went ahead of us and then five minutes up the road he was waiting for us and gave us two oranges. Welcome to Shikoku – this is the ‘Shikoku Way’*. He asked us where we were going and warned us about the tunnel ahead. It was a beauty! 2.5km long, very busy with traffic and only a very narrow footpath, so we walked it.

• Shikoku is known for The Shikoku Pilgrimage (Shikoku Henro). The Buddhist monk Kobo Dashi is said to have established the pilgrimage of 88 temples in 1815. The pilgrims, known as ‘Henro’, take the pilgrimage for prayer, contemplation or just because? It is about 1400 kms and takes 40 – 60 days. It is one of few circular shaped pilgrimages in the world. The people in Shikoku have welcomed pilgrims and support pilgrims by offering ‘o-settai’. It is a tradition and been part of the culture for many years so offering hospitality in ways of food refreshments , places to rest, meals or even accomodaiton is second nature to the locals. Hence, over our short ride through Shikoku we were given many food offerings.

We survived the tunnel and continued onto Uchiko where we were staying with Will and Tami, our Warmshowers Hosts.

Little did we realise that they lived in one of the famous streets in Uchiko. The street was lined with old merchant/traditional Japanese houses. We found out later that Uchiko grew rich form manufacturing candles and washi paper.

We had a great night with Will and Tami and they spoilt us with spaghetti bolognese – ‘Spag Bol’ and red wine. Peter was in heaven.

Will and Tami are working with the Japanese Government to develop Cycling Routes/Tours in Japan so we had an interesting and informative discussion on cycle touring and received very helpful information on Japan- so much so, we changed our route!!

Day 22/23: Beppu and Yufuin Rest Day.

Tuesday 25th April – Wednesday 26th April 2023

We had a lovely few days in Beppu.

We went to the Beppu City Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre. The beginning of Beppu bamboo ware can be traced back to the time of the 12th Emperor Keikoh (13 B.C. – 130 A.D.) Bamboo ware became popular souvenirs when people visited Beppu for its onsens in the Edo Period (1603-1868), hence creating a local industry. An apprentice’s school was established in 1902 to nurture artisans in modern bamboo crafts. Unfortunately, we couldn’t take any photos of the beautiful bamboo ware that was being exhibited – purely breathtaking.

We caught a bus to Yufuin, a very popular hot spring resort with art museums, cafes, boutiques and souvenir shops. It was by far the most touristy town we have been in.

We went to the Comico Art Museum. The museum was designed by Kengo Kumar, one of the most renowned architects of Japan.

And we even went to an Onsen – Gotouen Onsen, recommended by Diagoras, Warmshowers in Beppu. Poor Peter went under sufferance, but he really did enjoy it!!

Day 21: River Park Inuktitut Campground – Beppu (40 km)

Monday 24th April 2023

We had a leisurely 40 km to Beppu and all downhill. Thankfully we were back on Mapout so it took us along the quiet roads……

and a dead end!!!

Booked into our Guest House at 3pm – bikes are locked and inside the lobby. Owners are quite delightful and speak lovely English and sent us to their favourite restaurant for dinner

Day 20: Takahira Camp Ground – Bungoono (River Park Inuktitut Campground) (65 km)

Sunday 23rd April 2023

We had a good night on top of the mountain but did have one “hot rod” car turn up at 1 am. He didn’t stay long and went back down the hill.

Still blowy in the morning but not as bad as the day before.

We started with the gorgeous downhill run, then a lovely ride on the foreshore. We stopped for an early lunch and to get stores for the night as we were planning to do a wild camp, but we did find a campground (we love Google) a bit further on than what we had planned to ride for the day but we both felt better to go to a campground than wild camp.

• Everything is wrapped and double wrapped in Japan which causes us a lot of grief as there are no rubbish bins anywhere. All rubbish is disposed of from the home collection service. So, when you are camping you have to take your rubbish (Gomi) with you and for people on the road like us we do not know where to dispose of it?? So the first job of the day is finding a local Gomi collection cage. Some are padlocked to deter people like us! Others aren’t, so we stealthily put our rubbish in the cage. You notice that this is a problem for all Japanese as there is a lot of rubbish dumped in places illegally in the bush.

We couldn’t find the location of the camp site on MapOut so we did Google on secondary roads which was quite busy, and no shoulder, so we rode on the footpath. Most roads have a footpath, for cyclists and pedestrians, so even the busy roads you can get off them.

Our camp site was a river camp so Prue was expecting it by the river, which would be downhill but to get there we had to climb another mountain (Peter says, “hill”) Prue was not happy. Prue walked it as she had runout of puff and she had prepared for a downhill run but oh no!!

We checked in and met a lovely group of Japanese who had just completed a slalom canoe race on the river and the girl had one. Next big competition is in the UK in September. We think she is very good.

We camped on the grass. We had to celebrate for making the distance with a Chile Chardonnay which they had for sale at the office.

We are tired tonight and looking forward to 3 nights at Beppu.

Day 19: Sumiekazokuryokomura Campground – Takahira Campground (46 km)

Saturday 22nd April 2023

Very gusty and and strong winds today.

We had a stop a Kitaura, at the Family Mart and met Anthony from UK. Anthony’s set off from Singapore to cycle the world – he is 60 years of age, visiting 60 countries, riding 60,000 km in 60 months!

We said our farewells to Anthony and wished him well. We had a rough start as Peter was nearly thrown off his bike from a strong gust of wind – we both queried whether we should be riding in this weather. We continued on as we were heading inland and we thought the wind would not be as strong as it was on the foreshore. Which it wasn’t.

So we had we had a lovely ride on very quiet roads and through lots of tunnels.

We had lunch in a bay – very beautiful. Peter had a little adventure when his cap blew off!

Then we took off and lo and behold another no through road. This time we didn’t even try! Another route had to be selected!

We were 3 kms from our campsite and little did we know it was all up hill -1600 metres.

We arrived to a standing ovation from half a dozen road cyclists.

We had a lovely camp site overlooking the North Pacific Ocean. We both thought it was worth it considering the effort it took us to get up the mountain.

The vending machine at this camp site had disco lights!! Couldn’t resist taking a photo but we were in no mood to disco after our hard day on the road!

Day 18: Takachiho – Nobeoka (Sumiekazokuryokomura Campground) (80 km)

Friday 21st April 2023

We had an early start – on the bikes by 7.38am

We left the town via a Family Mart to get stores and cash. This took us a bit off route but we found our Mapout route and happily set off.

We started high and Mapout took us to a road to go down by the river but unfortunately it was closed, so then we had to go around another way to join the major road. We got back on route, and we still wanted to get down by the river so we turned off the main road, again following Mapout. We got to the bottom of the hill and there was a sign saying road closed due to falling rocks. Since the road was only half-closed Prue thought we could still get through as if it just had a few falling rocks on the road we could get around them. Peter thought the same. (As we had just been to NZ and they had lots of ‘falling rock’ signs and the roads were still open.) We were wrong! It was a landslide with no way of going over it or around it. So, the only way out was back where we came from – up the hill. Not happy Jan!!

Since we had a big day of riding ahead we then decided to keep to the main roads – not take any minor roads with Mapout as we didn’t want any extra kms than necessary!

So the rest of the day was uneventful until Peter had a tunnel wall crash (his second). The footpath was very narrow and Peter thought he could ride it. After first aid in the tunnel we walked the rest of the way.

We found our way to the camp ground and of course it was closed. There was a family village next door so we popped in to ask if we could camp there tonight. Of course the answer was ‘No’ and of course we had to make a reservation prior.

Since we had just ridden 80 kms of course we didn’t listen to them and camped illegally in the campground! And of course, nothing happened, and we lived to tell the tale!

We were very happy as it had toilets and running water.

Day 17: Takachiho Camp Ground – Takachiho Bed and Breakfast (7 km)

Thursday 20th April 2023

Rain forecasted so we headed for accommodation, not far away and actually all down hill – Yippee!

We wanted to catch up on some blogging so as we couldn’t check in until 3pm (the Japanese are quite strict with that), we went to the library. When we arrived at the library, we were told that they didn’t have WiFi for us to use. In most cases the Japanese go out of their way to find a solution and this time they excelled. They sent us to the local high school where we met Kudo-san and he showed us to a very large room, where we could work and use the WiFi. Unbelievable. We were both so touched by their amazing generosity and kindness.

We did get a little confused with the shoes and slipper formality:-

Going into the building shoes off, inside slippers on.

Going into the classroom, inside slippers off, no slippers in classroom.

Leaving classroom, inside slippers on

Going outside, inside slippers off and outside slippers on

Going into the to the bathroom, outside slippers off and bathroom slippers on…………

We had a very good day in the classroom and Kudo-san very kindly gave us two bottles of cold tea, which the students made. They love giving presents as well.

We arrived at our Minshuku settled in before going out for dinner, another Teishoku. It is the Japanese word for a pre-decided set meal. It is served at many Japanese restaurants, and usually includes a main dish, rice, a side dish, and miso. We love these meals as it gives us an assortment of dishes to try.

After dinner we went to the local Takachiho-no-Yokagura (sacred dance) performance. The dance has been dedicated to Ujigami-sama (a local deity). It gives thanks to Ujigami-sama for having a rich crop this year and for having a huge harvest for next year. We watched four dances.

Day 16: Fukukakematsu Camp Ground – Takachiho Camp Ground (23 Km)

Wednesday 19th April 2023

Today was all downhill from our campsite but we did do a side trip to Tanoko Falls and it was a lovely descent and a very challenging ascent. We just didn’t have enough hills to do today so we added this side trip!

We arrived at Takachiho, went to the shrine then went to the Gorge. Which was very scenic.

We had lunch at the flowing noodles restaurant. You had to catch your noodles as they floated by in a half bamboo pipe. What you miss they collect in a strainer for you at the end. We actually didn’t do too badly!!

Then we had to find our campsite and would you believe it was on top of a mountain. We are getting use to a very steep climb at the end of the day. It was a lovely view over the valley.

We walked back into town for dinner – yummy katsudon tonight – crumbed pork on rice with egg and onion.

Day 15: Misato – Mamihara (Fukukakematsu Campground)
(50 km)

Tuesday 18th April 2023

We said our goodbyes to Attila and Sayuri. Ben had already left for school at 7.20 am.

We were not quite sure of our route, so Prue decided to play with her phone whilst cycling …..NO NO NO…….yes she dropped the phone and then ran over it!!!! So we made haste to the nearest convenience store to check the phone out. Well, it was not a happy phone nor was Peter!! After a hour of fiddling with the phone and it still wasn’t showing any signs of recovery we decided to get on with the day and solve that problem later!

It was a hot day of 28 degrees Celsius and we had hills tunnels and bridges. Everyone pre-warned us about the tunnels in Japan and how dangerous they were but we found them quite manageable. Most had a footpath which we rode on or if the footpath wasn’t quite wide enough, we walked our bikes. If the road was very quiet, we rode through the tunnel. So far so good. Actually, we thank them, as if they were not there, we would be climbing over the mountain, and they are very cooling especially on hot days.

We made it to camp at 5pm – yes up a hill to get to it but it was well worth it. Beautiful grounds with hot showers and very flash toilets with hot seats and the lot. We are getting quite use to the luxurious toilets with the warm bidets…… too much information!!

P.S. The phone was still not working when we went to bed. Arghh.

Day 14: Tobase Island – Misato (Warmshowers) (40 km)

Monday 17th April 2023

Bad, bad, bad night!!!

There are 3 other campers travelling together with a big marquee and were in for a good night. One single guy arrived on his motorbike and made camp at 11.30pm. Another group of 5 people started a bonfire on the beach at 2am in the morning. Then lo and behold a family arrived at 3am wanting to make camp and start a bbq.

So all in all not a lot of sleep had!! We couldn’t wait to get out of the place.

The day got better, and we had a lovely ride along the foreshore. There were quieter roads in the hills but we both didn’t have enough energy to cope with the hills.

We found a lovely cafe on the foreshore selling manju. Sweet cakes filled with red bean paste and chestnut, or cheese. we had the redbean and chestnut. Which was delicious.

The cafe was run by two women. It was Peter’s first time seeing Japanese women in hospitality not wearing a mask and he thought they were beautiful. No wrinkles to be seen. Also, the mother came out and also had no wrinkles. Peter was amazed.

We had arranged a Warmshowers for tonight. It was with a family of three. Attila, Hungarian with his French child, Ben and his partner Sayuri, who was Japanese. They live in Misato and have just opened a Board Game Café. You pay to play the board games and you can have coffee and crepes for snacks. They have done no advertising and so far doing very well.

We met them at the shop and then Attila took us to their traditional Japanese house where we unpacked and had a shower. Ben was home from school, so once we were settled we all walked back to the shop to have coffee and crepes. We were also shown around and were taught how to play the outside games.

The cafe closed at 9 pm and then we had a quick dinner before settling down on our futon on the tatami mat.

Day 13: Himedo – Tobase Island – Wakamiya Camping Ground (42km + 8km)

Sunday 16th April 2023

We said our farewells to our new friends and they gave us a huge send off with big goodbyes.

We selected a route around the coast as we wanted a break for the mountains.

After morning tea we couldn’t avoid the mountains any more so off we went climbing!!

We had 6 bridges to cross – Island hopping across the Amakusa Islands. Unfortunately there was no shoulder on the bridges and the footpaths were very narrow so we walked across the bridges. We felt safer.

We found our campsite, near the beach. It was very neglected but did have toilets and water. There was no charge so it was a campsite where people could do what they wanted to do and they did!!

We didn’t realise that there were no shops near by and we didn’t have anything for dinner, so Prue rode back to the nearest convenience store while Peter put up the tent. That was the + 8km!! We learn’t our lesson to make sure we had food before going into campsites.Day 12: Amakusa – Himedo – Kojima Park Island (36km)

Saturday 15th April 2023

It rained all night and we woke to an overcast day with drizzle. In the morning, Peter worked on the computer and Prue went off to the cultural centre to see local crafts.

Check out was 11am (we think) Prue asked what time check out was and she thought they said, 11, but we got the feeling it could have been 10 but no-one mentioned anything to us when we checked-out at 11.!!!

It was still a slight drizzle so we thought we would go to McDonalds for a coffee and wait for the rain to stop. Coffee, a caffe latte, at McDonalds wasn’t too bad!

We set off and had a gradual climb up the mountains and unfortunately it was foggy and damp so it was a little miserable. Half way up the top we had a quick bite to eat before we we had to climb another hill!

We eventually went down a very long, steep hill and landed in a little village where we had a huge selection of drinks from three large vending machines. We both selected hot caffe lattes in cans.

When we were riding out of the town we were chased down by a motorist who wanted to talk to us. We had a quick chat to him and then off we went. Yoichi caught up with us at the campsite and he wanted to have his photo taken with us. He had never met a foreigner before so he was very happy to meet us.

We found our campground, on a small island joined by a causeway from the mainland. Peter thought it was delightful, Prue said it wasn’t quite like Fiji.

We were greeted by a family of 5 who took charge of our arrival. They rang the Janitor of the campground and said we would like to camp here. They were told that we were not allowed to stay as we had not made a reservation and we had to make the reservation 2 days prior to arrival. We both thought how ridiculous as there were 5 campsites available. To cut a very long story short, 10 phone calls later over an hour and a half, the janitor came and we were allowed to camp the night. We paid 1,240 yen to stay.

The family who helped us asked us to join them for a BBQ dinner, Japanese style.

So we put the tent up and then Kaisei, kindly took us to the supermarket in his car and we bought some supplies.

We had a fun night eating BBQ egg, tofu, squid and prawn mix, fish paste, chicken and rice. Peter’s favorite was BBQ chicken cartilage! We also were given a selection of Japanese alcoholic drinks eg. shochu – distilled spirit made from grains and vegetables. Umeshu, a plum wine using a Ume tart plum, alcohol and a sweetener.

When the Japanese are camping they all have a bbq to cook dinner. They prepare the meal early from 4pm and eat continuously through the night, cooking a variety of foods. It is non-stop eating and drinking and then they have fireworks!

It was a fun night and the family were very kind and generous sharing their bbq meal with us. Thank you.

Day 11: Tomioka – Amakusa (Amakusa Plaza Hotel) (28 km)

Friday 14th April 2023

We woke to an overcast morning and rain was expected. So we got up early and broke down camp before the rain came.

We booked ourselves into a hotel as we knew we were in for a wet ride. Slight drizzle when we left, as we rode along the foreshore where they were drying seaweed.

Then headed for the hills and then the rain came. We stopped under a farmers shed for Peter to get his heavy raincoat on and we ended up joining Mother, Father and daughter(who could speak very good English) for tea. They grew tobacco, rice which they sell. The daughter, Hiroko, grows mushrooms and they also grow vegetables and persimmon for themselves. We were given dried persimmon to take with us. It is very nice and similar to dried fruit.

The rain had stopped while we were having tea so we had a pleasant ride into Amakusa.

There are many shrines along the roadsides. An example of one above. The torii gate is a symbol of good tidings – separating the sacred shinto shrine from the physical world. It is said to cleanse the negativity and leave only positive welcoming energy before people pass through. The lion dogs (Komainu) guard the entrance of the inner shrine. They face each other, one with its mouth open and the other with its mouth closed.

We arrived early. Check In time is 3pm and there is no negotiation! There was a slight problem with our bikes as they wanted us to keep them in the car park which was on the main road. We were not happy with that and requested them to come inside. To cut along story short, the General Manager came out and organised us to leave the bikes in the cafe, attached to the Hotel.

We were all happy, especially we had shelter from the rain and the earthquakes as mentioned in the Hotel information pamphlet so we had a good night sleep.

Day 10: Nagasaki – Tomioka (Shiroiwazaki Campground) (50 km)

Thursday 13th April 2023

We said our goodbyes to Lisa and Alex and prepared for the climb down the steps (30) from the minshuku to the road with with panniers and bikes. It was much easier carrying them down than up!!

We followed the Nakajima river out towards Glover Gardens. There were more than 10 stone bridges built over the river and the oldest bridge is named the Spectacles Bridge. It got it’s name from the shadows of the two circles of the bridge, reflected in the river, looked like glasses.

Then we went onto Glover Garden. Glover Garden is named after the Scottish merchant and industrialist, Thomas Glover (1833-1911) who built Japan’s first railway and helped establish the ship building industry. It has over 2 dozen former homes of the European residents and buildings during the Meiji period (1868 – 1912) landscaped in the hillside garden with breathtaking views of the harbour. It was an interesting insight into foreign shipping merchants making a lot of money and living a grand life in Japan.

We left Glover Garden using the new Mapout App which gave us a few challengers. ” Leading us up the garden path!!” Eventually we found our way out and had a gorgeous run into Mogi where we were catching the ferry to Tomioka. It was a gorgeous crossing with not a ripple.

We were heading out of the ferry terminal to the campsite when we got hijacked by the tourist information officer, located at the ferry terminal and she advised us that we had to pay her for the camp site! We didn’t realise we had to pay there.

We found the campground and since we had arrived early and they only had a cold shower Prue thought it was time to introduce Peter to a public bath!! We had a family room, which is private, so Prue could teach Peter what to do and what not to do!! Peter loved it. He is still not sure about the public ones yet!

We came back to camp and I cooked ‘Champon’ noodles, a specialty of Nagasaki.

Day 9: Nagasaki – Rest Day

Wednesday 12th April 2023

We were off to the Peace Park, Atomic Bomb Hypocentre Park and the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum.

It was a very moving experience with the continual reminder of the time and date of the bomb explosion –

11.02 am, August 9, 1945.

The Fountain of Peace sends up a spray of water in the shape of a pair of wings, evoking the dove of peace.

The Peace statue, designed by Seibo Kitamura, was dedicated as an appeal for lasting world peace and as a prayer that such a tragedy would never be repeated. ‘The elevated right hand points to the threat of nuclear weapons, The outstretched left hand symbolises tranquility and world peace.The folded right leg symbolises quiet meditation while the left leg is poised for action in assisting humanity.’

Footnote: Peter wondered why there were not more losses due to radiation. The Americans had worked it out that exploding the A Bomb in high altitude meant the radiation was widely dispersed in the atmosphere. Thankfully said Peter.

Day 8: Nodakeko Park Camp Ground – Nagasaki (50 km)

Tuesday 11th April 2023

We rode with Lisa and Alex as they were heading to Nagasaki too and organised to stay at the same Minshuku we were staying at.

They were using ‘Mapout” for navigation. This app selected the quiet roads and with least amount of climbing for bikes. Peter and Prue were impressed and we enjoyed having the day off form navigation.

We didn’t get far before we all wanted a coffee break – so stopped at the local ‘pan ya’ (bakery) and selected our bun to have with our coffee.

We rode through the local, narrow roads then stopped at Lawsons for lunch before the big climb, followed by a a big donwhill into Nagasaki

Arrived at the Minshuku but little did we realise that it had no road to get to it just 30 steps from the road below!! Just a minor hiccough! Lisa and Alex took it in their stride – much better than Prue!

Once settled. Lisa and Alex in the Western room, Prue and Peter in the Japanese room with the tatami mat, we went out to dinner to the local Yakitori.

Day 7: Imari – Nodakeko Park Camp Ground (53 km)

Monday 10th April 2023

Before leaving Imari, we got the Hotel to check that our next camp ground was open. It was open, so off we went. We also booked 2 nights in Nagasaki , so we were well and truly organised.

The day was fraught with a head wind. We changed directions many times but still every turn we made we found ourselves with a head wind?

Although, we had the head wind all day we did enjoy the ride.

As normal, we had a hill at the end of the day to get to our camp ground and this one was a “doozy”, Peter’s words!! Prue’s words were something else!! It was over 3 km long and steeep! We arrived at the camp ground and we both said that the effort was well and truly worth it. It was a beautiful campground by Lake Nadakeko.

We were expecting to have the the camp site to ourselves but lo and behold Alex and Lisa ride in from, Brisbane, Australia. How funny is that!

Day 6: Imari – Rest Day

Sunday 9th April 2023

We had a lovely walk around the town.

Two Porcelain statues of women welcome visitors at the entrance of the shopping arcade. They are immaculate and not one sign of vandalism.

Then onto the Imari Automation Clock affectionately known as ‘Marion’ and we were lucky to hear it play but we were disappointed that the ship didn’t move!

Then onto the bridges:-

1. Aioi Bridge. It is believed to strengthen the relationship between married couples and lovers who cross the bridge together.
2. Enmei Bridge. You pray for good health and longevity as you cross the bridge.
3. Sawai Bridge. Crossing this bridge it combines the good fortune of the Aioi and Enmei Bridges, blessing the couples with a long life of happiness with each other.

They all had different ceramic figures at the entrance of each bridge.

So as you can imagine, we were very busy crossing bridges all morning!!

In the afternoon we caught the bus to Imari Okawachiyama – a village of the secret kilns. It is a small village nestled in the foothills known in Japan’s history as the home of the Nabeshima Clan, who built special kilns to make fine porcelains for the Shogun Dynasty. (1192-1867 Hereditary military leaders who were technically appointed by the Emperor – Military Dictatorship)

The displays of the old pottery were breathtaking.

That night we had a delicious Japanese meal – a katsudon bento (Crumbed Pork Bento). Delicious and Peter could not stop raving about the rice, miso and katsudon. It didn’t taste like Prue’s at all. Prue has now decided not to cook Japanese any more. (Ha Ha).

Came home and had a shower – had to stop by the Shampoo bar to select my shampoo!!

Day 5: Karatsu – Imari (35 km)

Saturday 8th April 2023

We had a late start – I wonder why? We said our goodbyes to Kat-chun and Miwa-san and rode off. Again, it was a lovely ride, gorgeous scenery, quiet roads and very peaceful.

We passed a Takoyaki Stall (Octopus Stall) which had to try, then carried on to Imari.

We went to the Visitor Information Office and again asked about camping. They sent us to the RV camp. We went there and were not allowed to stay there as you can only stay there if you have a vehicle which you can sleep in. This time there were no exceptions!! So we went back to the Tourist Information Centre and they sent us to the Guest House(Youth Hostel). We only found out it was a Youth Hostel when we arrived and for a dormitory with no ensuites, it was very expensive. So we found our own accommodation at The Imari Grand Hotel. A room with an ensuite for slightly more than the Youth Hostel. We were happy! So happy we decided to stay another night!

Day 4: Imajuku Outdoor Activity Centre – Karatsu – Slow Life 50:50 Camp Site (53 km)

Friday 7th April 2023

It rained all night – very steady rain and we were cosy as anything and very dry in our new tent. We both commented on how spacious and comfortable it is. Fortunately it stopped raining in the morning so, we had a ‘window’ to quickly pack up the tent before the next shower.

We decided to have breakfast on the road as it was too wet and there was no shelter where we were. The first shop was a Lawson. (Lawson and 7 Eleven are everywhere and like Taiwan a one stop shop). We will get to know these shops like the back of our hands!

We picked up highway 202, which had a wide cycling path running alongside it. Then we headed towards the beach to get on a quieter road along the coast. Although it had no footpath or shoulder, it was a lovely road, little traffic and very easy to ride on.

We stopped at a local shrine on the way with lovely views overlooking the Japan Sea.

Why? There are a few reasons but one is the open mouth represents “scaring away evil” and the closed mouth represents “keeping good in”.

As were were entering Karats, at the entrance, was Karatsu Castle. A white castle built in 1608, rebuilt in 1966 and refurbished in 2017. It is perched on a hill with a picturesque garden with amazing views. We went inside and there was a great collection of Karatsu pottery, samurai armour and archeological displays.

We then head to the Tourist Information Office to see if they could help us with camping sites. We were having trouble finding anything nearby. After a lot of “Argh ne’s” they found us a place 7 kms out of Karatsu called ‘Slow Life 50:50’. Say no more. It is run by an eccentric Japanese man. He worked for Coca-Cola for 40 years and he has every bit of paraphernalia associated with Coca-Cola and more!!! He also had the American Flag flying so we both felt very much at home after just being in USA for nearly 5 months.

He asked us to join him and his wife to go to a Yakitori-Ya, run by their friends. ‘Yakitori ‘are grilled chicken skewers made from all different parts of the chicken cooked over charcoal. It is enjoyed with a beer or two!!

It was a fun night and we ended up going to a friend’s bar to drink more beer. The friends both were in a band and have started singing again and now performing under their new name, “The Shine Returns”. They got the guitar out so we were all had a sing song. Peter was amazed, that they could sing any song Peter asked them to sing in English but could not communicate with us in English.

We were all were having such a good time, that we had to catch a taxi home!!

Day 3: Fukuoka – Imajuku Outdoor Activity Centre (17 km)

Thursday 6th April 2023

The forecast was for a wet morning, then a fine afternoon. So we made the most of the morning in the Hotel getting organised, then went back to the Kissaten and had our ‘breakfast setto’ and then headed out of Fukuoka. Since everyone rides bikes in Japan and are allowed to ride on the footpath, we felt at ease.

19 minutes down the road we had our first flat tyre and it was a beauty!! Peter did a quick tyre change and we were back on the bikes in no time.

We found it quite easy to get out of Fukuoka. If we had to get out on the roads, we felt quite safe and the cars gave us a lot of room. After following the secondary highway 202 we turned off it and headed towards the mountains to our first camp site, Imaku Community Centre.

We were greeted by 3 men and were told that we couldn’t camp here as we had to book 10 days in advance. We explained our situation but it was still a definite, ‘no’. But, we could use the bathroom in the Community Centre before we left. While there Prue again asked the girl at reception if we could camp there tonight. (Trying a different angle!) She was a little flustered and went to get her superior and lo and behold, he was the same man who we met at the entrance!

Eventually, and only after the guy rang his superior, were we allowed to camp there but for only one night! We were happy and we were looking forward to putting up our new Mont Dragonfly tent.

Day 2: Fukuoka – Rest Day

Wednesday 5th April 2023

It rained all day, so we were lucky to have had another night in a Hotel.

We went to the local Kissaten (coffee shop), run by a couple in their 80’s who had been there for over 40 years. Here we had the ‘egg toast set’. It is a very cute place with numerous bookcases full of manga* magazines, with the Beatles music playing in the background.

*’manga’ are comic books written in black and white and are very popular in Japan.

We went to the Hakata Machida Furusato-ken. This is a folk museum representing the Hakata neighbourhood, with replica buildings from the late Meiji Era(1868-1912). It also has artisans demonstrating local crafts.

After breakfast Peter put the bikes together and we were all set to go!

For our normal first day in any country we have to find our stove. So off we went to ‘Wild-1’ and as usual, the camping shops are off the beaten track and we find ourselves in very interesting places. Happy with our new stove we set off to explore a little of Fukuoka.

That night Peter wanted to experience a traditional Japanese restaurant. We found ourselves at a very small restaurant – with only 4 tables. There were two Japanese people there already. The chef’s speciality was sashimi, and we had this with his spring rice specialty and miso soup.

Soon after we arrived, two guys from Korea came in and then an American couple. Both commented that they saw us there so felt comfortable to come in. The American guy, Bear, announced, that he proposed to his girlfriend, Crystal, two days ago under the cherry blossom. So as you can imagine it became one big party.

We must mention that one of the Korean boys said that Prue uses chopsticks better than he does and he has been using them all his life!! What a compliment!

DAY 1: FUKUOKA

Tuesday 4th April 2023

We arrived in Fukuoka with a thousand others!! The time we got out of the airport took longer than the flight from Taiwan to Fukuoka (1hour 45 minutes). Then we had to find a taxi that took us and our bike boxes – no easy job but with the friendliness and willingness of the taxi drivers to help we achieved it with two taxis and lots of ‘bad’ Japanese by Prue!! Peter was a little anxious when we were separated from the bikes – they were in one taxi and we were in the other. Prue tried to reassure him that we were in Japan, the safest country in the world.

We arrived at the Hotel and Prue had to celebrate with Japanese Beer and her favourite nibbles.

Then headed out to try the Hakata ramen – the tonkatsu ramen is the most common. We went to the ramen stadium where the entire floor is full of ramen outlets. The biggest decision was choosing which one to go to.

The night was perfect for a stroll along the river, after our bowl of ramen, where we saw the cherry blossom, on the cusp of finishing.

April 2023

After dreaming of taking our cycling adventures to our favorite destination, we will finally leave Australia for Fukuoka Japan on Monday 3rd April 2023.

Our plan is to cycle-tour from Fukuoka to Sapporo (South to North) through each of the 4 islands of Japan, over a 90-day period. Prue cannot contain her enthusiasm, which has rubbed off onto Peter equally.