Spain 2023 (Including 2 nights in Gibraltar)

Day 32: Tarifa(Spain) – Tangiers(Morocco) by Ferry

Tuesday 5th December 2023

Today we Leave Spain, completing our journey and and now will park the bikes and have some rest and relaxation in Marrakesh, Morocco.

Day 31: Algeciras – Tarifa (25 km)

Monday 4th December 2023

Today is the last day of our journey from Dunkirk, France to Tarifa, Spain. A total of 3,415 kilometers!! We finished the trip with a short ride but had a climb of 400 metres.

Leaving Algeciras took us through the poor area – we both still get very shocked on how people live and the state of the the roads, footpaths and the rubbish – the Spanish just don’t seem to care..

This time we were riding on the inside of the crash barrier!!

We reached the top of the hill and could see Morocco in the distance, across the Strait of Gibraltar.

We arrived in Tarifa and what a difference to Algeciras – we loved the town immediately. We were staying at La Casa de la Favorita and as it said they were charming suites.

Then to finish our trip off we found this cutest restaurant ‘Lo La’. What a lovely evening to spend our last night in Spain

Day 30: Gilbratar – Algeciras – AC Hotel (45 km)

Sunday 3rd December 2023

We could see Algeciras from Gibraltar but by bike it wasn’t easy to get to, as guess what, the main road is the A7!!! Fortunately, there was a back route which all the “roadies” took so we had lots of company on the way!

We booked into a Hotel as there was no camping grounds and I think we are getting “soft” as we are getting very close to the end of our trip!

Finding somewhere to eat on a Sunday night in Algeciras was another thing. We ended up having a pizza and coke – certainly a come down from last night!! And there were no ‘robes’ in this Hotel! How quickly you get back to reality……

Day 29: Gibraltar – Rest Day and Peter’s 70th Birthday!!

Saturday 2nd December 2023

The Barbary macaques were also quite entertaining. Thankfully they didn’t jump on us!

Then we celebrated! the birthday!🥂

Day 28: Cancelada – Gibraltar 24 km + 50 km taxi ride

Friday 1st December 2023

Again another early start due to staying in accommodation but the day was not looking good – showers were forecasted from 10 am – First rain since we have been in Spain. A

Also, today we were on a mission as we had to get to Gibraltar today as Prue had booked a Hotel for two nights to celebrate Peter’s 70th. Accommodation booked. Restaurant booked. We just had to get to Gibraltar today!

We started riding and again the route took us straight to A7 and it began to rain. Peter found a way out across the pedestrian walkway which went over the A7 – fortunately it was a ramp to go up and over. Then we went to the beach and found the path next to the beach. 

The idea was to ride to Estepona, 10 km away and catch the bus from there to Gibraltar. 

We arrived at Estepona and came across a bike shop so Peter popped in and asked about a cycling route to Gibraltar.  The guy confirmed that there is no route unless you go on the A7 – not illegal but not done as the two lane highway is very dangerous, cars travelling at high speeds, both lanes extremely busy and no shoulder. 

So bus it was. (Note, there are no trains where we are.)

We got very excited (for 5 seconds) when we went to the bus station and they said that the bikes can go on the bus. Then their next sentence was they had to be packed up with both wheels off and wrapped in plastic ???!

We both looked at each other and thought what do we do now??

We rode a little way further on and it started to rain again so we took shelter under the verandah of Burger King. 

Peter thought it was time for a burger. Prue thought it was time to order a taxi!!

Prue went to the service station, which was next door to Burger King and asked the attendant to ring and order us a large taxi for 2 people and 2 bikes.  Five minutes later a taxi rolled up – not very large and no room for bikes.

After 2 hours of negotiating with the taxi company – we resorted to two taxis, well lo and behold a euro (wheelchair) taxi arrived. Peter and I jumped up and down, cheered and hugged Pablo the taxi driver. P oor Pablo, had no idea what was going on.

We had a lovely taxi ride to the border.  All we had to do was go through immigration and find our Hotel. 

The Hotel was at the base of the Rock (that’s what the brochure says) but really it was up a very steep hill! The Hotel was overlooking the Bay with the rock of Gibraltar behind.

Our room was not ready so we had bubbles, in the lounge, looking out onto the view , to celebrate the completion of our ride from Dunkirk to Gibraltar (3415 km) ! 

Since we were back in the Uk we felt like going to an English pub for dinner for their traditional fare. Peter had lamb chops, Prue had an ale and steak pie with peas and mashed potato. We also loved the Christmas decorations. We had not seen one Chrsitmas decoration in Spain.

Day 27: Torremolinos – Cancelada – Hostal 37 (75 km)

Thursday 30th November 2023

 What a day! We think it is one of our worst riding days. 

Since we stayed in a ‘bungalow’ last night we got away before 9 am. 

The ride started through Torremolinos – another busy town with a bike path going through the centre of the town, so it was bikes, scooters, pedestrians and cars all dodging each other. 

Then we got onto the cycle path, running beside the A7 expressway on the outside of the crash barrier. The so-called ‘bike path’ was a narrow concrete sort of a path, rough and uneven weaving around lamp poles rubbish bins and bus stops.  Most times we had to stop to squeeze our bikes around the obstacles, due to our panniers.

Then our route took us to the waterfront where we found a board walk on the coast at La Cala de Mijas which was lovely but cyclists were not allowed – only pedestrians. At this stage we were beside ourselves so we ignored the sign and carried on! Then the walkway ended abruptly and we found ourselves in the scrub following a very disused path back to – you guessed it – the A7! Prue was not happy. The riding was ridiculous.

We could find alternative routes but it always brought us back to the A7 Expressway. 

We had 8 km to go to our camp site and again the route was taking us beside the A7.  Prue spat the dummy and went onto “booking .com”.  Wolla!! For 44 euro, a Hotel room – on the ground floor. Bikes stored on the ground floor in the work room and we were happy. Last night our bungalow cost us 55 euros.

But oh no the hot water has issues. Like big issues – not hot!!! Bugger %^££€^** 

Out to dinner and a few wines – warmed us up!! 

Day 26: Torrox Costa – Torremolinos (65km)

Wednesday 29th November 2023

We said our goodbyes to our new friends, Judy and John and set off. 

Each day is full of surprises and today was no different.  Our route took us down the back roads through the back blocks before putting us on the water front with the proper bike path!!

We had a lovely ride along the coast and this part of the trip we were more in the up-market tourist areas.

Today was flat but still the wind was against us. 

The highlight for the day for Peter was passing a very big cement plant. We had to stop to take photos!

We went through Malaga – a thriving populated city with a very big cement plant.

We followed the path along the water fornt – it was lovely except that it was not really for cyclists as the path was made of uneven pebbles so most cyclists selected the dirt on the side of the path. Far easier to cycle.

And as usual, we struggled cycling through the city and got lost going out. 

We found our camp site – in the middle of the highway and under the flight path- what a great choice!!! Peter this time was not messing around and booked a bungalow!!

By the way Judy gave Peter an early birthday present – wax ear plugs!!

Day 25: Playa de Poniente – Torrox Costa – El Pino Camp Site (53 km)

Tuesday 28th November 2023

It was all quiet until the dogs started barking at 1am, Peter is over the b#%.. dogs!!! Prue gave him a sleeping tablet and so the next morning she couldn’t wake Peter up!! So, a late start.

We had 5 big climbs today but thankfully the weather was on our side, lovely warm day, 20 degrees and no wind. 

We worked out that there are two tell tale signs to let us know that we have reached the top of our climb. One, when the slow lane merges with the road and a tunnel. In Spain, the only tunnels we find are out the top of a mountain.

We were slowly leaving the plasticulture and entering into more up market tourist places.  We passed through a couple of big towns  Almunecar and La harriers very built up.  Mainly apartments and very few houses.

We passed an the aqueduct, also known as Eagle Bridge. It is 40 metres high and very impressive.

Our campsite was a small plot on the top terrace, overlooking  Judy and John from the UK. We had a lovely fun night with them.  They kept topping up our glasses with brandy – it worked a treat for Peter – he slept all night.

Day 24: Las Vegas to Playa de Granada(Playa de Poniente Camp Site) (73 km)

Monday 27th November 2023

As we were leaving we went down to the beach – not very pretty but it had plenty of rubbish bins!

What a long day. We got up relatively early as we knew we had a long day with a few hills but again the wind caused us grief, especially on the cliff roads. Fortunately, the road was not busy so we could safely be buffeted by the wind, pushed into the centre of the road and not get in any harm – like get blown into the traffic.

We followed the plasticulture  and we both were amazed that they covered the hills as well. 

We both commented today’s scenery was not nearly as stunning as previous days. It was day where we went up and down. We climbed up the hills between the bays and then went downhill to the seaside villages. 

The villages we went through were mainly servicing the agribusiness not the tourists.

Prue had an incident with a bee going up a hill. The bee was actually a bumble bee and ‘decided to fly into Prue’s riding top. It stung her on her chest – thank goodness for ‘Stingos’ and antihistamines. She survives the ordeal!!! 

We also met a Spanish Father and son riding who had a son/brother living in Richmond, Melbourne. Such a small world. 

We arrived into camp late – another metropolis but mainly permanent campers who weren’t in residence so it was very quiet!!

We struggled to find a supermarket – we keep forgetting they close in the afternoon and reopen between 4.30 – 5.30 pm!!

Fortunately we found one open- limited supplies but enough to get us through the night. We won’t starve as shown by Peter in the photo”digging in”!

Day 23: Las Vegas Camp Ground – Rest Day

Sunday 26th November 2023

Prue woke up at 8.30 am!!!!! Just as well we are having a rest day.

Day 22: Roquetas de Mar – La Curva – Las Vegas Camp Ground (42 km)

Saturday 25th November 2023

We were going to have a rest day at Roquetas but we had a rough night. With an all night party on the beach with music going until 6 am and then we had the dogs – what is it it with the dogs in Spain. 

So we packed up and left to go to Las Vegas!! A small family camp site in the middle of the plasticulture area. The ‘Plasticulture’ is an agriculture farming practice in Southern Spain which covers many thousands of acres. The area is known as the ‘sea of plastic’. The reason for these greenhouses are because the crops are more productive, they can get up to 3 crops a year and the soils stay wamer and retain extra water. They grow, tomatoes, zucchini and peppers and flowers. The workmen are mostly from Morocco  and our informant implied they were not here legally??!

With this massive industry come the workers who live in poor rural areas with a few shanty areas scattered in between the towns. It wasn’t a pretty ride and the towns were just poor.

Also  the bike lanes were not finished. – they forever just stop so we go  back on the road again until we find the next one which just starts out of nowhere. Fortunately the traffic stops for us to let us find our way !! We think they would prefer us off the road! 

We found Las Vegas, a quaint camp site with trees and only 40 plots hopefully looking forward to a quieter night.

Day 21: Cabo de Gata – Roquetas de Mar (43 km)

Friday 24th November 2023

Our coldest night so far but still quite snug inside the tent.  Hence getting out of bed a little late.   We also took the advantage of a little sleep-in due to a shorter day. 

Peter was greeted with another flat tyre. We believe we didn’t get all the wire out from the previous puncture. 

We left about 11am. We had  a steady ride along coast but we were buffeted by the wind – very strong wind gusts and it was a head wind also. 

We found it difficult to get out of town. Bike lanes just stop and we are stranded on the wrong side of a busy road.

The road leaving Almercier was along the  edge of the cliff so very windy and undulating and we had to go through a couple of tunnels with narrow shoulders. The motorists were use to cyclists so they were very kind. Because it was so windy and the road was busy we had to concentrate on cycling so unfortunately not a lot of stopping to take photos. 

 We arrived at our camp site – another enormous  metropolis but we did have lovely neighbours, Rolf, Sabine and their two and a half year old son Henrique, from Germany, who were touring around Europe. They both have very high powdered jobs so we joked, that they were far too important to be able to have an extended break from their jobs.

We had a walk to the beach and came across a very famous tree, that has been growing on the beach for many years under adverse conditions. For this reason, Roquetas refers it to as a symbol of ‘strength and resisitance’.

*It’s proper name is Tamarix Canariensis. This tree stands out for its size and proximity to the sea.

Day 20: Mojacar – Cabo de Gata (75 km)

Thursday 23rd November 2023

We got hysterical as we couldn’t find our way off the mountain. Peter resorted to asking the local policeman for directions!!

 We eventually found the foreshore and it was very attractive. A little bit more classy and less motorhomes about. 

We had a fantastic ride – the scenery was continuously changing, we had some challenging hill climbs and some magnificent downhills. 

At 20 km we met 4 people from UK. One couple out for 89* days the other just visiting. You can tell the people who are staying out in Spain for 3 months or longer by their sun tan!!

*The English are only allowed 90 days in Europe as well, since leaving the European Union.

The whole day was riding through Parque Natural del Cabo de Gata-Nijar nature park. 

We targeted to have lunch at 40 km which was the last of the big climbs.  Peter found a shady spot on the side of the road. So we put up our chairs and watched the other bike tourers cycle past!!  We were both surprised how many bike tourers were out. 

The rest of the ride was downhill with a few little inclines to keep us on our toes!!

We struggled to find a supermarket – we keep forgetting they close in the afternoon and reopen between 4.30 – 5.30 pm!!

Fortunately we found one open- limited supplies but enough to get us through the night. We won’t starve. 

We found the camp site and it is like a little oasis  in the middle of the ‘Plasticulture’ an agriculture farming practice in Southern Spain which covers many thousands of acres. The area is known as the ‘sea of plastic’. The reason for these greenhouses are because crops are more productive, they can get up to 3 crops a year and the soils stay wamer and retain extra water. They grow, tomatoes, zucchini and peppers. The workmen are mostly from Morocco  and our informant implied they were not here legally??!

Day 19: Aguilas – Mojacar (43 km)

Wednesday 22nd November 2023

We had an easy day today with a climb at the end to Mojacar. 

We had a lovely undulating  ride along the coast. Every bay there was a dozen or so motor homes all parked and camping  on top of each other. 

We had lunch at Garrucha overlooking the sea – this area had a very wide sandy beach before getting to the sea. 

We then had a short ride to Mojacar.  It is a village settled on top of a mountain.  We questioned who suggested going to this place as the climb was quite gruelling but we were thankful we did it as it is a beautiful village with lots of history.   It has been populated since around 300 BC. 

We were met by Jose who showed us our room with a balcony overlooking the town square. The bikes went into another guest room that was not occupied. Thankfully the Hotel was not booked out.

Throughout the town we came across the ‘Indalo Man’. This symbol represents a ‘higher power’, which protects places and people from danger as well as evil and ignorance.

We had a walk around the town – very easy to get lost as it was all up, down and  around!!  We had drinks in the square and then went back to same restaurant to get takeaway pizza. Pablo was great as he could speak very good English. We had  pizza on our  balcony overlooking the town square.

Day 18: Bolnuevo – Aguilas (56 km)

Tuesday 21st November 2023

We thought we had a cruisy day – only 40 km but it did include a 400 metre climb.

It started with cycling along the limestone coast with magnificent mushroom formations formed by the wind. 

Peter felt it was good to be back on the Mediterranean coastline after being in the mountains.

Our cruisy day ended up to be an endurance ride. Due to a very hard start along a sandy rocky hilly track. A very challenging ride especially fully laden.  We were a bit surprised by how undulating it was with short steep little climbs – it kept us on our toes. 

The road was only for walkers and cyclists and the scenery was stunning.  We both commented how lucky we were to ride along this track and motorists would miss this view!

Our thoughts soon changed when we had only done 6km by 12.30!!

Then the thoughts totally changed again when Prue fell off her bike.  Peter dropped everything and also  Wolfgang and Gertrude, two walkers on the track,  came running up.  No major injury but a very sore knee. After a little while to regroup , we soldiered on.

Our path joined up with the road that had vehicle access. This was the gateway to all motorhomes wanting to camp in the dunes in the bays. It was ‘first man in best dressed’.

We decided to have lunch at Lorca, a very small fishing village catering to the tourists and it was just before the climb.

After lunch we started the climb and we were pleasantly surprised it wasn’t that difficult. 

Then the fun began all down hill to Aguilas  – we love the reward of a climb and this one didn’t let us down !

We came to camp later than expected but we got there before dark. 

We set up our tent on “auto pilot”  had dinner and bed by 8pm.  Little did we realise that the lane way behind us was the truck entrance/exit to the sheds to collect the fruit and vegetables grown in these huge plastic tents we saw along the way. Thankfully we only had a couple passing!

Tomorrow is another day. 

Day 17: Roldan-Terrazas de la Torre Golf Course – Bolnuevo (71km)

Monday 20th November 2023

We rode through the food bowl of Spain. Unbelievable what they can grow considering the climate. It is all by irrigation. 

We rode past a cemetery, surrounded by a high wall, enclosing mausoleum crypts. It was fascinating.

We had a steady climb through the Sierra des las Moreras Mountains. At the top we met Graham from UK who by coincidence was staying in the same camp site we were planning to stay at. He was out for a an afternoon ride. 

The weather changed and it was quite cold coming down but once we got closer to the coast it warmed up. 

We arrived at our camp site and we booked a site and the site they gave us was on the beach front and guess what? ………next door to Graham.  How funny is that!

Day 16: Terrazas de la Torre Golf Course – Rest day

Sunday 19th November 2023

We have stopped and rested. No sight seeing either as there is nothing to see where we are except an 18 hole golf course. Prue thinks that some of her golfing friends will disagree.

Day 15: Albatera – Roldan – Terrazas De la Torre Golf Course (73 km)

Saturday 18th November 2023

We had our earliest start – away by 9 am. We knew we had a long day so we wanted to get way early. We had 40 km of relatively flat riding then a climb, then a lovely downhill.

We were following the pilgrimage route, Camino de la Cruz. We thought we would pop in and have a look at the church which was on the pilgrimage route and we found it all locked up. We both thought if were doing the pilgrimage you would be very upset arriving and finding the church closed!

Some interesting sites along the way.

After lunch we started the climb and as usual a little celebration at the top and the mandatory photograph.

Tonight we have booked ourselves into a Condo overlooking the golf course. We are in block 53. Each block has 24 condos – so it is no small complex.

Day 14: Monover – Albatera (55 km)

Friday 17th November 2023

It was all downhill except for one climb of 200 metres but it felt like a hard days ride. 

It wasn’t a pretty ride, very dirty,  rubbish on the side of the roads and quite warm and very dusty.

In Spain, they do not have household rubbish collection. It is up to every household to dispose of their rubbish in the large public green bins which are found in all streets. One bin is for glass, the other for paper and the third is for general waste. Most times you will find broken glass around the area.

This time we found the  pomegranate orchards. Pomegranates are sun worshippers and very hardy, so no wonder they grow in this very harsh climate. By the look of the trees and the fruit we also think they were having a bad year.

It was also another day circumnavigating the railway lines.

The other thing in Spain which is very common. The houses are usually on a big block, surrounded by high wire fencing, large gate and guard dogs – normally two.

We stayed at our first house share. You pay for the room only and share the house facilities with the owner. A bit like warm showers but you pay for the room. It was a pleasant experience but we are not sure we will do it again.

Day 13: Bocairent – Monover (67 km)

Thursday 16th November 2023

We had a very peaceful night in Villa Carmen, in the house. We closed the shutters and curtains – locked ourselves in the room and absolutely no noise. Not a dog bark heard!

We left at 9.30 saying our goodbyes to Rodger. Unfortunately we missed Nina. 

Our route took us through the industrial area then onto a dirt rocky road running beside the main road. We both said bugger this and  went out onto the main road. It had a good shoulder and not a lot of traffic and all down hill!  We got up to 32 km/hour and loved it. We Also had a lovely tail wind.

We arrived in Vilena to have a banana stop when Prue noticed her back wheel was flat. Another flat tyre. 2 flats in 2 days!! So, our banana stop changed into a lunch stop.

Tyre fixed, we were fed and watered, so we headed off again!!

We arrived at our camp ground El Chico Rubio. This is a ”farm’ camp ground and they only have olive trees. It is run by a young couple from the Netherlands. They also provide glamping amongst the olive trees, mobile home sites and a fully contained studio overlooking the pool as well as a bit of dirt for tents! That was us.

Their place is off the beaten track, so we both thought hopefully we were heading to the right place! We were very relieved when we saw the sign to their place and we arrived in the middle of olive harvesting. We arrived at the right time as they had nearly finished, with the help of some very obliging campers!

Day 12: Bocairent – Rest Day

Wednesday 15th November 2023

Bocairent ia a traditional Spanish town in the hill side of the mountain, with a peculiar layout of streets. Its has a population of about 4500 people. Another town worth a visit due to its Moor Caves, a group of windows-caves in the middle of a rocky cliff and their origin still remains a mystery. It also has a bull ring carved out of rock in 1813.

After our day in Bocairent, exploring and being sent to the local Spanish restaurant for lunch we went back to Villa Carmen where Roger was finishing up with harvesting their olives. Everyone in Spain has an olive grove. The last two years have been very bad for olives so they were discussing the price of olive oil being very expensive.

Day 11: Xativa to Bocairent (62 km)

Tuesday 14th November 2023

We knew we had a big day ahead of us – a 600 metre climb so we wanted to have an early start but that did not eventuate as we started with Prue having a flat tyre.  It took us a little while to fix it as we put  the tube with the puncture back in. (Hello??!!) A slight mix up with the tubes. (ha ha) We eventually got away at 11.30 am.

We rode to Xàtiva, 7 km away and had breakfast in a lovely park  – it had running water, rubbish bins but no toilets.

After breakfast we went to get stores and the highlight was that this supermarket had toilets – and very clean ones. Perfect for people who has just been in the bush, wild camping!!!

We both liked Xàtiva very much and we were sorry we didn’t have more time to explore!!

We rode past Castell de Xativa. No time to ride to the top and explore. “Thank goodness,” exclaims Prue!

We had lunch at Guadasséquies. The town had a funny little square but had a cross, water, bin and a seat. What more do you want? Don’t go there……..no public toilets in Spain!

It was quite warm today, temperature being 29 degrees celsius.

We stopped at Pou Clar -‘clear well’, just outside Ontinyent. Very spectacular. It was a good excuse to have another stop as we were climbing over the Sierra de Mariola mountains and with the warm temperature we were ‘feeling’ the climb.

It was a hard day’s ride but we arrived in a little Oasis called Villa Carmen. A boutique camp site run by Nina and Rodger, who were originally from the Netherlands and moved out here 17 years ago for the weather.

Our boutique camp site had a few surprises for us during the night – the first one was the church bells rang, not only on the hour but also every 15 minutes. The second surprise were the dogs were very excited to see the arrival of Prue and Peter so they barked all night. Our fellow campers who have been staying there for a few nights said it was the worst night for dogs barking. In Spain, the dogs are used as guard dogs and not kept as pets, therefore most nights you will hear barking dogs. We even heard them when we were wild camping!

We planned to have two nights here so luckily they had a spare room in the house which we could move into – we are looking forward to a quieter night.

Day 10: Valencia to Xativa (62 km)

Monday 13th November 2023

The days are getting warmer, 27 degrees maximum today.

We had a slow pack up and then off we headed. It was following a relatively straight road out of Valencia but slow due to stop start again from traffic lights every 50 meres and pedestrians had right of way so you had to be vigilant!! Actually, very tiring. 

We had lunch in the town square of Almussafes and it was very busy. It was school lunchtime, so children were every where with their parents “supervising” in a very haphazard fashion. The parents were more busy socialising with each other than looking after the children!! Also, Prue particularly liked the wall/fence that encircled the park. Very decorative.

As we were planning to do a wild camp tonight due to no camp sites around, we made sure we were all stocked up with stores and water

We stopped at Algemesi and met Elijah from New Zealand. He is married to a French girl and living in Germany and cycling to Poturgal from Lucerne. Such a nice man.

We were also following the Camino de Santiago de Levante, so a few Spanish people stopped us and asked if we were on the Camino trail.

The whole day was riding through the orange orchards and funnily enough we ended up camping in one of them. We were very well camouflaged from the density of the trees and best thing was we had fresh oranges for breakfast!

• In all the supermarkets in Valencia there are orange juice machines that produce fresh orange juice on request.

Day 9: Valencia – Rest Day

Sunday 12th November 2023

We spent 1 day in Valencia, a vibrant city, the third largest in Spain. Valencia has a great mixture with a magnificent Spanish old city center and a fantastic modern Centre with an Opera House, nearly rivaling our Sydney Opera House, with other City Science and Culture Centres, access from the old town through a two kilometers park land strip, a credit to the Valencia City designers.

Day 8: Tamarit to Tarragona (23 km) then Valencia by Train

Saturday 11th November 2023

We couldn’t get out of the camp site fast enough – planned not to have breakfast and have it in Tarragona – Eleven kilometers up the road where we were going to catch the train. 

 We had a lovely breakfast overlooking Parc de l’Amfiteatre. Roman Amphitheatre built in the 2nd century. 

Then we went to the train station to find out about the train going to Valencia. The reason we were catching the train was to give us a few more days up our sleeve before we had to get out of Europe. (90 Days without a Visa) – less pressure!!

Well we were told it was not a direct train and we had to change trains. Prue was not impressed due to the last train trip, which was horrendous. 

Well, we caught the first train and “it was a delight”, Peter’s words.

They had a “mid distance inter-city train”, not a commuter train, so they had a special carriage for bikes which had a special ramp that covered the gap from the train to the platform, which was level with the floor of the carriage. We felt like royalty as we easily wheeled our bikes onto the carriage and placed them in a large open area and sat opposite the bikes in comfortable seats.  

We then got off, after an hour, at the inter-change station. We were on the platform furthest away from the ticket office so Peter ran across to check with the Station Master which platform we needed to be on.  To cross between platforms you needed to go down steps through the tunnel to get to other side (platforms).

Peter came back all smiles as we didn’t have to move. The train was coming on the same platform. 

5 minutes before the train was due there was an announcement in Spanish. We both understood that there was a platform change but luckily for us it was on the same platform but the other side. And you say, “How did we know?” because all the people waiting for the train all turned 180 degrees. We were the only ones facing the other way !! The Station Master came onto the platform and Peter checked with him and he confirmed the platform change. 

Well then the fun began.   Everyone knew which direction the train was coming so they were all looking towards the train approaching and they all gasped as the train swung widely across 4 train lines to platform 1- the ticket platform. We are all on platform 5. Mass hysteria set in and there was a mass exit from our platform. Thankfully there was a lift, so we went straight for the lift.  We could only fit one bike at a time, so Prue went first and just squeezed in. She had to take the front pannier off so the wheel could be turned to allow the bike to fit in and past the sensor to allow the door to close.  Prue was a little worried as she knew Peter’s bike was longer and knew he would have problems getting his bike in.  

Meanwhile Prue got to the other side and raced along the train to find the bike carriage – this train had none. 

Thankfully a very kind Spanish man who was also travelling with a bike and (a pet parrot on his shoulder)  waved me in to his carriage and helped me heave the bike up the steps into the carriage. Meanwhile Peter is nowhere to be seen and the train was ready to go. 

Prue didn’t know whether to get off train and leave the bike to help Peter. She could see the train going with Prue’s bike and no Prue, so she thought best to stay with the bike. 

Little did Prue know that Peter was with the Train Conductor who had radioed the train driver there was one more passenger and bike to load, Peter was not worried!

As Prue thought,  Peter could not fit his bike in the lift, so he had to wheel it down the steps with the Conductor. Both front panniers fell off so the Conductor took the bike, Peter collected the two front panniers  and raced upstairs with them; followed closely behind by the Conductor carrying Peter’s bike with the full back load (40kg) up the stairs. Unbelievable was Peter’s thoughts.

The conductor threw the bike in to the first carriage and pushed Peter onto the train and blew the whistle. Finally we were off!!

Meanwhile Prue was four carriages in front, nearly  beside herself.  We waved through the doors at each other just to make sure we both knew we were on the train!!! We both regained our composure and  got settled and  enjoyed our three hour train trip to Valencia!!

 Who said bike riding was difficult. No, we rate train travel as number 1 in difficulty!!

When we arrived in Valencia, Peter must have been still a little shaken with his ordeal as it took him 3 (and a few more) goes at getting a picture of Prue outside the Valencia train station!

Day 7: Sitges to  Tamarit (50 km)

Friday 10th November 2023

It was a very windy but sunny and warm day. We started with a ride along the coast, which was very heavily built up then gradually it thinned out.

We also spent most of the day crossing over or under the railway line which was running parallel to the coast

We cycled up a hill overlooking the Mediterranean and came across the mansions – all having an amazing views of the Mediterranean coast. We were more impressed with their gates.

We found a camp site open near the beach – Tamarit Beach Resort. As we were riding in we both commented on how enormous it was. We were given a small pitch at the very end of the resort closest to the beach next door to the party tent!! It even had strobe lights. Yes, you guessed it, we moved but the whole complex was in party mode due to it being a Friday night.

Friday night golden rule: No camping on Friday night and that goes for Saturday night as well. The Spanish style of camping is quite different to everyone else.

Day 6: Barcelona to Sitges (51 km)

Thursday 9th November

We were sad to leave Barcelona and our new friend Francois and Erika.

This time, we planned our departure and made sure the bikes would fit in the lift by taking off the handlebars – perfect solution!! Rather than carry them down 3 flights of narrow stairs.

It took 20km riding through the built up areas, to get out of Barcelona. The bike tracks were great but a lot of stopping/ starting at lights and for pedestrians, so the 20 kilometres felt a lot longer? But finding the Neslte Market was the highlight of the day – one happy Peter with his handful of chocolates!

We had a 10 km of climbing on a very busy and winding road to get across the mountain saddle.

Whilst we were climbing a bike packer sped past us – we both looked at him with envy. It is amazing how much faster you can go with a lighter load! Funnily, we caught up with him at the supermarket – where we meet most of the cyclists who are touring – we always need food! Christian, was from Germany also cycling to Gibraltar.

We found our camp site, Camping El Garrofer, – you name it – it had every sort of accommodation you can imagine including a dirt pitch for us.

Day 3 – 5: Barcelona Rest Days

Monday 6th to Wednesday 8th November 2023

We visited, Casa Batlló, one of the three houses that Antoni Gaudi built in Barcelona. It was built in Catalonia’s modernist style and its design was ‘nature’ inspired. The house is owned by the Bernat family and they have recently restored it to include contemporary works to create more of an immersive and engaging experience for visitors. We were impressed.

On exiting the house you walk down a flight of stairs that has the most impressive chain installation covering the walls and the stairwell. This was done by Kengo Kumu. He used 164,000 metres of aluminum chains to create a mesh curtain.

Once you reach the bottom you are guided into an enclosed square room to experience 360 degree of digital art by Refik Anadol, presenting his work “In the mind of Gaudi”.

The other ‘must see’ in Barcelona is Gaudi’s ‘Sagrada Familia’, which is the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world. The main reason why the church was never completed was it relied on public funding. The Spanish civil war disrupted the fund raising efforts and also the design of the church changed over the years which slowed down construction.

We loved the buildings in Barcelonia. Not only were there Guadi’s impressive architecture but there was a mixture of Art Nouveau, Gothic and Modernism.

We had a market tour of Barcelonia starting with the famous market, La Boqueria. It was a feast of the senses and we just loved it. Some interesting facts we learnt:

• There are 260 kinds of olives
• They have a saying in Barcelonia, “7 olives a day keeps the Doctor away.”
• There were 43 markets in Barcelonia, until the introduction of the superarket.
• The most expensive ham is from the pig whose diet is only accorns.

At the end of the market tour we were introduced to ‘The Caganer’.

T

hen we had a trip to the Picasso Art Gallery. We were lucky as both Picasso and Piro had a joint exhibition on while we were there, so we could see both famous artist’s work. We didn’t realise Picasso did sculptures and pottery as well.

The last tourist stop was the L’Arc de Triomf. Yes Barcelona has one too!

We loved Barcelona and we would love to go back.

Day 2: Palafrugell – Barcelona via Caldes de Malavella (45 km)

Sunday 5th November 2023

We had an interesting night. We thought we were done with storms but not true. The wind picked up overnight and of course we were camping under the trees. 

Peter woke to two large branch cracking noises  and  jumped out of his sleeping bag, out of the tent to be met by the security guard who was shining his torch into the tree, also worried because of possibility of falling branches.  Both discussed in their best sign language the wind was very strong and best to move.  We didn’t need any convincing to relocate at 1.15 am!!

Then we didn’t realise we were camping next to the dog pound but something set them off at 6 am. So overall, we did not get a lot of sleep.

As we were catching the train from Caldes de Malavella. Which was a 43 km ride away, we were happy to get up early as we were excited to get to Barcelonna. (Why train? Well short answer is we could not find any accommodation for tonight and Peter still recovering from his fall we didn’t feel like wild camping so train it was.) 

That was an adventure in itself as we booked our ticket at the station and the ticket man said, ” There is no problem with bikes – any carriage any train.” Easier said than done!!

The train arrived and on one of the doors  it had the wheelchair sign, so we thought this door/ carriage would be the right one.  Well we pressed the button to open the door and was confronted with three steep steps to get up into the train. Peter had to drop his bike to help Prue get her bike up the steps then race back to get his bike and we hauled it up the steps before the doors closed. Once in there was nowhere to go.  We could not take the bikes through to the carriage as the doors were too narrow. And due to limited space, we blocked either one entrance or the other to go into the carriage. Amazingly no one was angry they just accepted us and the inconvenience.

At every station we stopped, it was a juggle to get people to go around us, so that they could either get on or off the train.  

Then we worried how we were going to get off as we were not getting off at the last station. All I can say there were some very helpful Spanish people one keeping the door open for us the other helping us with the bikes  – it was a nightmare!!! 

We thought we might catch a train later to make up time but after today’s exercise we may need to ride longer and faster!! 

Then getting into our apartment – self check in – that is another story!!

And where to put the bikes – in our room so up 3 flights of stairs because they couldn’t fit in the lift!!

An hour later we were in, tired and relieved we made it to Barcelona!

The positives were:-

• We had a lovely ride to Caldes. We went along the coast – part of Costa Bravo, to Platja d’Aro where we turned inland to Caldes de Malavella.
• The sun was out and we even got hot!
• We got to Barcelona in one day instead of two.

The highlight of the day was coming across the ruins of the Roman thermal baths of Caldes de Malavella. They were built around 50 AD on preexisting thermae dating from the 2nd/3rd centuries AD. Caldes de Malavella is famous for its thermal springs and mineral water. We had no time to experience the baths as we had a train to catch.

Arriving in Barcelonia was a bit special as we came via the underground train network so we were not sure what to expect when we popped up from below! All of a sudden we were amongst it all.

Day 1: Viladamat – Palafrugell (45 km)

Saturday 4th November 2023

Our first day in Spain, but really we were in Catalonia, as told by our Warmshowers host, Macia. Catalonia, is an autonomous community of Spain, located in the Northeastern region.

We all left Macia’s around 11.30am – the skies were threatening rain so we think we were all delaying the inevitable – riding in the rain but fortunately we only had a few spits and just overcast with a very strong wind!!

We had a lovely ride through the villages along the narrow roads through the apple farms.  

We had lunch at Torroella de Montgri and just as we were leaving the crew from Macia’s arrived. We said more goodbyes – they were heading off to Girone we were heading to the coast!! We went through a gorgeous village Torrent.

Didn’t quite make it to Palamos, which we had planned but found a campsite 10 km prior and we were ready to stop as we had had enough of the wind and as you guessed, it wasn’t a tail wind!!

We have changed our plans for tomorrow. Since we can’t find anywhere to stay between here and Barcelona we have decided to ride to the closest railway station, Caldes de Malavella (43km) and then catch the train the rest of the way to Barcelona. We are both looking forward to a 3 day break, especially Peter who is still recovering from his fall into the ditch!!