Day 19: Victoria – Rest Day 2 (Not really as we rode 47 kms!!)

Wednesday 30th August 2022

Brenda and Jim took us for a ride to Sidney and back along the Lochside Trail. This trail takes you from Sidney, where the ferry comes in from Vancouver (Tsawwassen), to Downtown Victoria. A great trail to get to Victoria and miss the traffic.

Sidney is a picturesque seaside town very popular with the retirees. It was great to have Brenda and Jim with us to show us the sites and give us the local knowledge of the place.

For our last night in Canada we celebrated with Brenda and Jim at one of their local restaruants. Off to the USA from Victoria BC tomorrow.

Day 18: Victoria – Rest Day 1

Tuesday 29th August 2022

We had a lazy morning doing some housekeeping, while Brenda went our walking with her friends and Jim went cycling with his. Both felt very guilty staying put but it was very special to be able to relax and catch up on a few jobbies.

When Brenda and Jim got home they took us back to Downtown Victoria via the scenic route and a walk on the sea wall at Ogden Point Terminal and Breakwater. From the wall you get beautiful views of the Vancouver Island Southern Waters overlooking to the States.

We had the rest of the afternoon in the city looking for a few supplies and visiting Peter’s favourite shop MEC. Ended up having an ice cream sitting on lawns in front of Provincial Parliament Buildings – home to the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia.

Then we went back to Brenda’s and Jim for another scrumptious dinner – the best potato salad ever and we had a special glass of Brenda’s Father’s port, who we toasted, as he had recently passed away.

Day 17: Brentwood to Victoria (13 km)

Monday 28th August 2022

What a big day ride – 13 kms!! Before we left Rodney showed us his shed – where he makes specialised components for marine research.

We popped into the popular Mosi Bakery, on the way, where we had our daily coffee fix and treat!

Then rode onto to Brenda and Jim’s. We were greeted like we were their best friends and were treated like their best friends during our whole stay.

What a wonderful, fun couple who had done more cycle touring than us, so we didn’t draw breath.

We settled in and then headed Downtown Victoria where we had drinks at the Empress Hotel (Canada’s Castle on the Coast) overlooking the harbour.

Returned home to a scrumptious meal Brenda had prepared for us.

Day 16: Rest Day Brentwood

Sunday 27th August 2022

Rodney dropped us at the Butchart Gardens where we spent 3 delightful hours wandering around the beautiful grounds. Fortunately it wasn’t overly busy so we could amble around comfortably. The only drama was trying to get out as not too many people walk to and from the gardens and everywhere we turned there were no exit signs for pedestrians and we were even chased down one road by an attendant, saying we couldn’t go down there!!

After illegally escaping from The Butchart gardens we walked home via a local Art Show – up a hill!! (Peter was cursing me!). The gallery was run by a friend’s of Rodney in a picturesque setting – some paintings were even hanging on the old barn wall.

We arrived back to Rodney’s and he very kindly took us on a scenic drive. It was a great overview of Victoria and the surrounding suburbs. We also met his Parents, Pat and Bazil and another couple, Geoff and Anne, who recently moved to Victoria from Saskatchewan. Anne, was originally from Melbourne so it was lovely to meet them.

We got home, made a quick turn around and out for dinner at this very popular cafe Blue’s Bayou Cafe on the waterfront on their deck. A little taste of New Orleans – featuring cajun/creole style menu.

DAY 15: Crofton to Brentwood (47km)

Saturday 27th August 2022

We were on our way to say with Rodney and Sharon who live near Brentwood near The Butchart Gardens (3 km) . We met Rodney in Campbell River and he very kindly offered us to stay with them.

The ride from Crofton was along country roads and following the coastline to the ferry crossing from Mill Bay to Brentwood. (25 minutes). Going this way cut out the busy main roads from North to South of the Island.

On the way we stopped at a cute fishing village Cowichan Bay which had the best bakery, ‘True Grain’ and a great Maritime museum. Very busy place withlots of tourists.

We left Cowichan Bay up a very steep hill, which was no surprise but thankfully we had their famous cinamon bun to help us get up the hill.

Waiting for the ferry we met lovely Rhonda who had been on her bike for 13months looking for somewhere to settle. She has decided to go to a little place near Nelson. Nelson, seems to be the ‘place to go’ to as it is very popular and have heard it being mentioned numerous times on our travels. We must visit on the next trip.

It was a 10 km trip to Rodney’s place. They live in a lovely house on a 2 acre block. Since they were still building we had the backyard to camp in and use their bathroom facilities.

We met Sharon and I thanked her very much for having us to stay. Also I said I bet you are cursing Rodney and saying who are you bringing home this time!! (Rodney frequently picks up strangers when he is out on the road on his motorbike)

What a lovely evening was had, with Karens parent’s, Jane and Paul on their balcony, looking down the valley, with two fawns frolicking in the fields below.

Day 14: Lantzville to Crofton (24 km)

Friday 26th August 2022

Derek was driving to Ladysmith(40 km south) this moring so we hitched a ride. This made it much easier for us as we didn’t have to ride through busy Nanaimo.

We had a leisurely ride onto Chemainus, famous for its murals on the town building then onto Crofton to camp. It was another RV campsite, to Peter’s horror, but fortunately it had separate area for camping on the foreshore and Peter was pleasantly surpirised. We had our best night camping!

Our neighbours, Paul and Jennifer were from North Vancouver. They were exploring the area and doing day hikes. They were so so nice and again very generous offering us accomodation.

Day 13: Langdale to Lantzville (1 Km riding all day!!)

Thursday 25th August 2022

We had a lovely relaxing night and knew the ferry was just down the road (1 km – all downhill). So, we slowly packed up and rolled down the hill to first ferry crossing that day. (Langdale to Horsehoe Bay – 40 minutes). Then we caught the next ferry back to Vancouver Island (Horshoe Bay to Nanaimo – 1 hour 40 minutes)

Derek picked us up at the ferry terminal and drove us to their house at Lantzville (17 kms north of Nanaimo). The house is on the waterfront overlooking the Strait of Georgia. We had the option of pitching our tent or sleeping in their spare bedroom. It was a “no brainer” – we picked the bedroom!!

We had a lovely night with Derek and Karen, their daughter and family (Janette, Steve,Ben and Oliver and the dogs Lilly and Izzie) Karen’s Mother Aileen and Guya, who lived on their block.

We stayed overnight in Lantzville at Derek’s and Karen’s residence.

Day 12: Sechelt to Langdale (26 km)

Wednesday 24th August 2022

After our relaxing night in our Hotel we were no hurry to leave quickly. We slowly packed up and headed for the nearest…………coffee shop!!!

We psyched ourselves up for another day of hills but thankfully we only had 26 kms to our next accommodation. We had booked an Air BnB near the ferry in Langdale which we have planned to catch tomorrow.

After we stopped on the way to look back to Sechelt, a lovely lady offered to take a photo of us on the beach. This gives you a good indication of the pebble beaches we had to contend with! Pebbles, pebbles everywhere!!!!

We stopped at the Little Red Wagon Farm and had our best tasting nectarine ever. These little farm shops are scattered throughout Vancouver Isand and Sunshine Coast. You can pick up lots of fresh produce here, ranging from fruit, vegetables, chutneys, jams to all sorts of meats.

We arrived at Gibsons for lunch. The road to the Gibsons was vertically straight down – greater than 20% gradient!! We had both brakes full on and we had to stop to give way to the traffic at the end!! (There was no ‘bike arrester bed’)

Gibson is a lovely, such a beautiful place with mountains in the background and has a lovely village feel. We met another Peter who had just been on the road for 79 days from the Artic Circle. We have a lot of days to go!

We have a night in an Air-BnB 4kms from Gibsons and guess what up another very big hill!! Peter rode all the way up and he said he never felt his heart beating so hard! Yes, you guessed it, Prue walked it and her heart was pumping!

The BnB was lovely – a beautiful view

Day 11: Sargeant Bay Park to Sechelt (9 km)

Tuesday 23rd August 2022

Peter got us up at 5.30 am to break camp to escape before we were noticed.

We had a short ride to Sechelt (via the steepest hill of the whole trip 17%), where we planned to have breakfast at the local bakery. With full tummies we both looked at each other and said we were tired and decided to have a rest day. We fluked some accommodation on the water front and we could check in at 10am.

Here we had a well needed rest and Prue has worked out how to get into the water over the pebbles. On your Bumm!!

Day 10: Saltery Bay to Half Moon Bay (57 km)

Monday 22nd August 2022

Kent Camp site was a short 2 kilometers from Saltery bay, so we arrived early for the ferry crossing to Earls Cove.

The hills took us by surprise – how many and how steep they were so it was a very enduring ride but we perservered to Peter’s campsite at Sargeant Bay, so it would give us less kilometers the following day. Lunch was at Madeira Park.

Our prospective camp site was in the Sargeant Bay Provisional Park. What a story we have that night. Peter was sure we could camp there, but on entry we sadly found out camping was prohibited in this park. And unfortunately Prue had expended all her energy to get to this site and she wasn’t going anywhere, and there wasn’t anywhere to go near by. So we had our first stealth camp. (Hopefully our last!)

While waiting for darkeness, we noticed a sign warning visitors that a black bear had been sited in the area. So Peter and I packed a bag full of our food and toiletries (Bears are attracted to smells) and we tried hanging it from a tree. But we got the uncontrollable giggles as the bear could easity get to our bag, as we couldn’t get it high enough! So we gave up and put it in the bushes well away from us!

Once the park closed at 9pm, we then set up camp in the dark making minimal noise as residents were near by. Peter came across his soap container, which should have been in the bag with all the other stuff, so we just through it out of the tent door and hoped the bear didn’t vist us!!

Amazingly we had a good night sleep with no bear or human visitors during the night.

Day 9: Powell River to Saltery Bay (33 km)

Sunday 21st August 2022

At our first campsite on the Sunshine Coast on the Mainland, we met Stephen who was hiking the Sunshine Coast Trail (Sarah Point in Desolation Sound to Saltery Bay, 180 kms). Unfortunately he had a knee injury and he couldn’t carry on. He gave Peter some very helpful camping tips in the bush with the bears.

Then onto morning Coffee, Cafe and Bakery where we met Derek and Karen from Nanaimo. They were on their boat and were in Powell River for a 50 year school reunion. We had a great chat and we will catch up with them when we go back through Nanaimo.

We were fairly relaxed as we only had 30 kms to ride before we got to our camp site but we had a rude awakening with some very long challenging hills (average 12.5 km for the day).

Finally arrived at Kent Beach campsite, just prior to Saltery Bay and headed to the beach for a swim – our first swim! Well it was hysterical as the beach is all pebbles and no sand. We couldn’t keep our balance walking over the rounded pebbles to get out to deep water. Peter gave up and watched his wife stagger out to sea like a drunken old lady!

Day 8: Courtenay to Powell River via Ferry (20 km)

Saturday 20th August 2022

Had a nice and relaxed morning with checkout being 11 am. We set off and for our morning coffee and found, ‘The Luv Bug’. Not only was it good coffee but it was run by a female ‘Beetle enthusiast’ who dressed skimpily. Peter kept going back for sugars, which he didn’t need!!

We rode out to the Ferry terminal, Little River. The ferry crossing took 1 hour 25 minutes. Peter befriended two German bike tourers who had just ridden from Anchorage, Alaska. Peter sussed out the route they took and got some very helpful tips for when we do it.

We arrived at Powell River and it was buzzing. Little did we know that we walked into The Blackberry Festival, the main street was closed and there were food stalls and people everywhere. We had to join in the fun so we had a blackberry margarita at the Latin American restaurant where we had dinner. It was finished by a spectacular fireworks display watched by the whole town.

Day 7: Campbell River to Courtenay (67 km)

Friday 19th August 2022

We had a slow get away as Peter got talking to a guy called Henry, who was looking for a campsite for him and his two mates. As we were leaving he wanted ‘to bags’ the site before ayone else did. (Half of the campsites at Quinsam Campsite and frist come first serve.)

Both of his mates came round and partially set up camp on our site. They were trail motorbiking around the lakes near Campbell River. They left and we got a free place to camp near Victoria as one of the guys, Rodney, offered Peter and I to stay at his place and make it a base. Win win for both Parties!!

Then the neighbour, the other Rodney we met the day before with the power pack and the salmon came over to wish us goodbye and more advice on what to see and do on our next leg.

Finally, we hit the road at 9.30 but we had to stop at the Fogg Dukkers – a very popular coffee shop overlooking the passage to the mainland.

After coffee we headed to Miracle Beach for lunch. Very peaceful beach resort and very popular. Took a short cut along the coastline through The Wild Blueberry Eats Farm, to reach the highway. It wasn’t really a thourough fare, so we wanted to stop and buy something at their farm shop. At this point, Prue realised she had left her phone where we were having lunch. So back we went and Hooray, the phone was still there and Peter was a happy boy!!

We added 10 km’s to the trip so head down and legs spinning down highway to get to our Air BnB in Courtenay.

That night busy housekeeping – laundry, blogging and bike servicing.

P.S. We did have our best meal out with no “fries” to be seen!!

Day 6: Campbell River – Rest Day

Thursday 18th August 2022

We started off on a 3 km x 10% gradient hill climb (thankfully without our load as we left all our gear in the tent) to the John Hart Hydro Power Station above Campbell River. We visited the Elks Waterfall and suspension bridge then cycled to the Quinsam Salmon Hatchery then back to Downtown Campbell River for lunch. Salmon Burger- what else!!

After lunch we went to the Museum. As we were locking our bikes up a lady passed by and said,”Your bike will be dismantled even though you have locked it. You will just come back to a frame!!!” Well, we both looked at each other in disbelief and wondered what to do. Prue wasn’t going to be beaten so she went inside the Museum and asked if we could bring our bikes in. As in true Canadian style we were allowed to put our bikes in the storeroom. We both had a stress free and leisurely look around the Museum and learnt a lot about the First Nation folk and the history of the colonisation of Campbell River.

Retrieved our bikes (fully intact) from the storeroom and then found a place with WiFi and caught up with our blogging and then back to the campsite!

*Bike theft in Canada is rife. Everyone we met had a bike theft story! We were also told that the Police too busy and treat is petty theft.

Day 5: Courtenay to Campbell River (54 km)

Wednesday 17th August 2022

We both had a good night sleep!! I met Jen in the ladies and she said “Yeah, we survived the night at Maplepool Campsite!” A friend of hers had texted her and said, “What the F#@% are you doing there!!”

We packed up and headed North to Campbell River.

Again we were looking for a coffee fix and went into the first roadhouse. We asked the attendant if they have coffee. She said, “down the back”, but didn’t tell us it was out of service!!

Heading up the Highway 19A we both queried what we were doing as there was no scenery (and we didn’t have our coffee) and just a highway. Was it worth going to Campbell River??.

20 km’s from Campbell River we were on the foreshore and scenery was breathtaking – and then we got into Campbell River and we both surprised how Iovely it was.

Prue selected a campsite (Quinsam Campsite) 4.3 stars but didn’t read the fine print as it had no WiFi, no Showers and no Laundry. It did have a long drop and water – what else do you need??!!

Each campsite is secluded – surrounded by a forest and you have your own table and bench and fire place. And we had an amazing neighbour – Rodney…..

Rodney, from Vancouver was a breath of Fresh Air. He gave us a portable high power portable Battery Charger ” Jackery Explorer 1,000 ” which we charged our phones and our battery packs. Then he gave us home smoked salmon caught from the salmon river capital of the world! We were happy campers!!

He did then tell us that his mountain bike was stolen from this campsite, so Peter and I went into security mode! Our bikes were locked up 3 fold and we slept soundly.

Day 4: Qualicum Campsite to Maplepool Campsite – Courtenay (46km)

Tuesday 16th August 2022

Leisurely morning – just enjoying the surroundings. And we both had a good night sleep – hooray!!

Rode along the Highway (19A) on the seaside. We were desperate for coffee so we had our first service station coffee – not bad sweet, strong and cheap!. I think we both needed a sugar fix!

All riding so far has been along the coastal highway with limited views. Good shoulders and cars extremely courteous – especially for us foreign travellers!!

Arrived at Maplepool – OMG where are we camping now?! Thank goodness the campground for tents was good, on grass, and along way from the RV’s! But don’t mention the amenities. Peter just told me to wear thongs and don’t look!!

The highlight was meeting this lovely Canadian couple (Bill and Jen) who were celebrating their 25th anniversary and had just ridden 1,000km bike packing on the North West area of Vancouver Island on gravel bikes (rough roads). They were dynamite – oh to be young and have so much energy!!

We had no stores so needed to do a grocery shop and decided to eat out and ended up at Ricky’s Bar and Grill!! A rating of 3.2 but amazing we both had a great meal!

Day 3: Snaw-Naw-As to Qualicum Campsite (45 km)

Monday 15th August 2022

We couldn’t get out of Snow-Naw-As fast enough. On the way to Qualicum, Bay we were stopped by a guy, Bob, in a van who had pulled over and waved us down. Again he was an avid cyclist and a previous world tourer. He sent us off to ‘Serious Coffee’ where all the cyclists stopped for coffee and suggested to us to camp at Qualicum Bay First Nations Camp Site. Peter and I said, “OH NO” we have done with First Nations Camp Sites, but he said this one was different- quiet and they don’t party ?? !!

We fluked a front beach site with beautiful views. The lady next door booked two sites and her friend went home early.

We showered and headed to the local pub. They had Happy Hour and a live band on Sundays. We felt like we were in Hicksville and what fun. Everyone dancing. Peter had a tab “Peter” no card required!!

Day 2: Nanaimo to Snaw-Naw-As (First Nation Campsite) (25 km)

Sunday 14th August 2022

We had a bad first night. Our first experience with RV’s Recreation Vehicles and they are huge! One had their air conditioner going all night. So no sleep for Prue and very little for Peter. Each campsite has their own rules regarding generator/air conditioner’s usage for RV’s and at Westwood Lake Park there were no rules !!

We packed up and was in search for coffee and found Brud House where we met the owner. He was a keen cyclist and couldn’t encourage us enough on our journey to San Diego. He had done it by car and just loved it.

Then onto the supermarket to get stores. Prue came out with our first brown paper bag full of shopping. Prue felt like she came out of a movie set.

Then we had to find bear spray, so we headed for Canadian Tire (Bunnings but even bigger). A huge general hardware store that sells everything. I knew Peter would take his time in this shop as he loves Bunnings, so I took shelter in the Trolley Collection Return Bay, as it started to rain.

We then continued on to Snaw Naw As (First Nations campground). We had a campsite overlooking the Nanoose Bay Entrance. The only thing going for it was the clean and new amenities and the view. This campground had rules but as it was run by the First Nations, they had their own rules – so it was party time – the community came in to party, fireworks and all !! Another bad night!

Day 1: Vancouver to Nanaimo via Horseshoe Bay (31 km)

Saturday 13th August 2022

Left our Hotel in Downtown Vancouver and made our way out of Vancouver through quiet downtown roads. Peter and I were so surprised – the streets were quiet so it made a very easy and relaxing exit from busy Downtown Vancouver.

We crossed the well known Lions Gate Suspension Bridge and meandered through the North Vancouver suburbs via Marine Drive to Horseshoe Bay (Ferry Terminal), where we were catching it to Nanaimo (Vancouver Island).

We met Tom and his father Gerry at the Ferry. Gerry lives on Gabriola Island. To get to Gabriola Island you need to catch the ferry to Nanaimo, then another ferry to Gabriola. Gerry became our new best friend and our tour guide. He clarified that doing the lap to Courtney then back to the mainland and down the Sunshine Coast is a must. So, yes we are doing it!!

We booked a campsite at Westwood Lake Park, 6km ride from Nanaimo – uphill!! Our camp site was in the pines just 500 metres from the lake. We were suitably impressed. Each campsite has a table with stools and a campfire pit, making it very comfortable for us.

One little hiccough, the key for the amenities dropped off the key ring Arghh – but luckily the neighbour saw it sitting on the bench in the ladies bathroom – I was saved!!

First week in Vancouver Downtown (8th to 12 August 2022)

Monday: Leaving Australia (8th August)

Monday 8th August Canada – Hooray!! We have arrived in Vancouver. To celebrate we went to Hotel Georgia to have their internationally acclaimed cocktail in the 1927 cocktail lounge. Having a few luxuries before we hit the road!

Tuesday 9th August: Peter assembled the bikes then off we went to Granville Island market for lunch.

Spent time looking for a camping stove Downtown VC, but Downtown stores mainly sold outdoor clothes. In Australia, The North Face / Kathmandu all supply gas equipment, so we were surprised this was not the case in Canada! So we walked along False Creek, further out of town. Along the way we learnt about the protected views. The city council 1989 protected 26 view corridors of the North Shore Mountains.

Finally we found Mountain Equipment Company (MEC) further out of town. It is a super size camping mecca with everything. Peter was in heaven. We caught the ferry back.

Late afternoon we hopped onto our bikes and rode to the 2nd Beach, along Stanley Park for a hot dog. Then off to 3rd Beach for the annual beating of the drums (to claim their spot?). Everybody was out along the beaches to enjoy the summer.

We were told off for riding the wrong way around Stanley Park, but we followed the locals to the beating of the drums and it was quicker to get there going the wrong way!! We couldn’t go any further so we planned to do it tomorrow – the right way!

Wednesday 20th August: We went for a second bike shakedown ride around a full lap of Stanley Park. This time in the right direction.

We met up with a friend of Prue’s for drinks at the Belgard Kitchen East Vancouver, another relaxing and enjoyable night as we settled in

Thursday 21st August: We decided to catch a bus from Canada Place to Capilano Suspension Bridge, on the North Side of Vancouver. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Vancouver BC. Not only did it have the bridge but also a treetop walk, cliff walk as well as information about the indigenous people and most importantly about the bears. Did you know that a black bear was not always black?